The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

[bboysdontcryy]



Actually, looking at the swatch and my computer screen right now, the fabric in real life is less mottled than it appears online. Not sure why my camera captured what it did.

Bah. Much less mottling?

 

[dieworkwear]

...

 

[Ataturk]



Not at all. It's similar to SG's chambray, but looser woven.

If we could get them to source a lighter blue, I'd be up for going in on a special run. Don't know if they can do that, however, since they're just a merchant and not a mill.

Their website says they'll order custom runs, but I bet the minimums are high.

 

[bboysdontcryy]



Much much less. My camera and photography skills apparently suck.

The traditional oxford is really good though.

Talk about false expectations!

Am in for a custom run if it materializes.

 

[TheFoo]

My chambray is on its way back to Torsten. It is indeed part polyester--says SG itself. Stay the **** away from Simonnot-Godard.

Shirtmaven vindicated again.

 

[poorsod]

Who is Torsten? What about the one shirt now?

 

[TheFoo]

Torsten is SG's distributor in Denmark. He runs the blog The Journal of Style and the web shop Grunwald. He's like the Danish version of Will of ASW.

I bought the chambray from him. A couple of days ago he got on the phone with me to tell me SG told him the cloth I have is part polyester. In fact, all of their chambray, regardless of type, is part polyster. They even added that it has had polyester in it for the past 30 years, including what is sent to places like Rubinacci.

I'm going to use Alumo end-on-end. The high-end men's clothing industry is full of hucksters. Sadly, Simonnot Godard is one of them.

 

[marcodalondra]



Torsten is SG's distributor in Denmark. He runs the blog The Journal of Style and the web shop Grunwald. He's like the Danish version of Will of ASW.

I bought the chambray from him. A couple of days ago he got on the phone with me to tell me SG told him the cloth I have is part polyester. In fact, all of their chambray, regardless of type, is part polyster. They even added that it has had polyester in it for the past 30 years, including what is sent to places like Rubinacci.

I'm going to use Alumo end-on-end. The high-end men's clothing industry is full of hucksters. Sadly, Simonnot Godard is one of them.

The end on end will look great on more formal shirt, cannot see it as great button dows, even the 80/2 looks too fine.

Does the Chambray need to be SG or nothing, my bug with it it was that was a shirting worth less the 6 euro per meter but they were selling it at Riva prices. You would love the Bonfanti version but is still on the high price side, Albini is great as well and there is a merchant that is having Albini rolls washed the same way that denim is, and amongst the various colour I have seen one that is close to the SG version. Also, at a slightly higher weight, you can get 100% cotton chambray at 6 euro per meter...

 

[Ataturk]

Did they mention whether the looms were 18th century or only 19th?

 

[Cantabrigian]

You won't be disappointed with the Alumo.

I like the second lightest shade myself.

 

[DocHolliday]

Maybe they can guarantee the polyester is from 1972, the golden age of man-made textiles?

 

[Manton]

does this mean I have to burn mine?

 

[Manton]

BTW, I agree, no BDs in end on end.

 

[jrd617]

I think you're rushing to judgment here, foo. I'd urge you to go the mass spec route:

 

[Shirtmaven]

button down in end on end is seriously old school 1960's look.

everything from Phillips boyne comes from asia
older 44/45" will be from Japan. the basic broadcloth is ok.

59/60" fabrics are out of China.

the minimums for specific fabric is at least 1000 yards.

It was worth the second degree burns on my fingers to prove I was right.