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The OneShirt: A Phoenix from the Ashes [4/24/13 UPDATE: A SHIRTMAKER, AN ENGLISHMAN, CHAMBRAY, AND F

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I personally don't care for the selvedge, but how is visible, nubby handstitching not equally fetishistic?
     
    3 people like this.
  2. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    For me, the fabric already limits it to casual.

    I find myself uncharacteristically unbothered by the selvedge on an obviously casual shirt.
     
  3. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a selvege chambray shirt (links way upthread somewhere), though the selvege line is on the underside of the placket and is not visible unless you look on the inside of the shirt.
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Oh it is, but it is less noticeably so. Also, there is nothing else you could do with those stitches. You could, theoretically, do something better with the selvedge.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
  5. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If they used the selvedge somewhere else and tried to claim it was designed to improve the durability of the shirt, most here would immediately call bullshit.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    I don't know. I think selvedge and handstitching are more or less just fetishistic details for clothing nerds. There's some "rationalization" for them - selvedge is more durable, handstitching aids movement in certain areas. Parts of those are true, but those reasons seem pretty secondary to their main function: things to obsess over if you care about old ways of creating clothes. Nubby hand stitches on shirts and trousers are just decorative, and as you know, are often reinforced with machine stitching anyway.

    If handstitching is too subtle of a detail, you can take waterfall shoulder heads. There's tons of stuff we obsess over that serves no real function but to advertise to the world "this is something different, this is something special." There's nothing wrong with that, IMO. We can like clothes for the things they represent and for the ways they were created. Not every detail has to have a practical function behind it.

    I don't care for the selvedge detail personally, but I don't think it's anything more than personal taste.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
    9 people like this.
  7. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  8. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I'm fine with that shirt as a casual, Summer shirt. I don't mind the selvedge as at least the colors work well together. It could have been purple or yellow or something truly ostentatious. A guy wearing that shirt is still dressed better than the large majority of guys out there.
     
  9. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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  10. rob

    rob Senior member

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    I think some of the obsession with showy details derives from insecurity: If I've paid so much for this bespoke item, I damn well want something that announces it. I admit to having to fight that urge at times.

    One caveat. I don't think this applies to Foo at all, as I've not seen even the tiniest bit of insecurity in him.

    Rob
     
  11. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    That might hold true in some cases, but I think in many other cases it's just clothing "nerds" wanting to satisfy their curiosity and interest. Which is nothing bad IMO.

    Honestly, I don't think anyone would notice how "different" your waterfall sleeveheads or surgeon cuffs are in real life, so there's no real point in showing off the "bespokeness" of your garment. When I ask for some eccentric detail, I do it for myself.
     
  12. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    For a non-SF, non-denimite, it just looks like a stripe. Hardly showy.
     
  13. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Anyway, the shirt looks to be handstitched, and I think those details look nice. I wonder if Gerald and Diana are able to take online orders, or if you have to visit their shop to get fitted for a shirt.
     
  14. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    Last edited: Jun 20, 2013
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  15. hendrix

    hendrix Senior member

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    I'm not hating on it. I just don't like it, and yes it would prevent me from buying it.

    Also, it's been done 1000x by the workwear brands for about 5 years to the point that Jcrew and Gap now sell the same gimmick.

    Now obviously that Vanda one is much nicer than the mall brand stuff, but it's still a detail that I find gimmicky.
     
  16. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    However well made, those are absolutely horrible and the 'selvedge' in that case is like wearing the label outside. Gauche, in other words. And please no-one try to tell me it's 'ironic'. Marimekko fabrics are fantastic, mind you - all of the curtains in our house are Marimekko. Enough said, I think.
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2013
  17. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Last i asked, which was a few months ago, they were only doing full bespoke, which requires fittings in person.
     
  18. StockwellDay

    StockwellDay Senior member

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    Those are FU pants in the trad tradition. I'd never wear them, but like the concept. Agree the 'selvedge' is taking too far; in fact, to me it would seem to be outside the ethos of trad, but I'm not an enthusiast, take it with a grain... One can tell they are Marimekko just by seeing the print.
     
  19. Baron

    Baron Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I like them and I would wear them.
     
  20. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Just got around to put the fabrics together for comparison:
    In the middle two Chambrays, the lighter one is SG cotton/poly old style, and the blu denim one is from the English source mentioned early. The two small sample cuts are handwoven organic cotton cambric fabrics, but as the cotton is not bleached, these have a dirty look nog to my taste. I have also included two shirts, the lighter one is an Albini end on end, the slightly darker end on end is from a very cheep italian source. Also in the picture from the bottom left corner, Alumo soyella end on end, Bonfanti Dallas end on end (the finest of all), tops other end on ends from Alumo cards and the bottom right, end on end from Canclini 120/2 argento range. This is to shows that end on end and cambric/Chambrays are two different animals. I like end on end very much for my business shirts, have several more finer then the ones in the picture, do not see it well as substitute for chambray ...[​IMG]
     

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