• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The OneShirt v2: Out of Many, One Shirt

TheFoo

THE FOO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
26,710
Reaction score
9,853
After 3-4 years of going back and forth to Paris and iterating on an order here and there, I finally pulled the trigger on a new shirt arsenal from Charvet. The fabric is a "chambray." Someone will zoom-in on these pictures and tell me otherwise, but I'm beyond the point where the technical distinction matters anymore. I just want a deep, variegated blue shirting that will wear well. No more tissue-paper Riva for me. It's hard to capture the color in photos, but it is a much darker and more saturated blue than I've used in the past.

DSC00540_SMALL.jpg


The collar is an absolute one-off. Not cut from a template. Shirtmaker shaped it on my neck freehand, with shears. I explained I wanted a natural "S" curve, rather than a straight line (what Charvet normally does). It was an interesting process, but I think we ultimately got there. I also asked for the lightest interlining possible.

When I brought my first completed shirt back to Paris 2-3 years ago, we further refined the collar shape. In fact, they took my old shirt and changed the collar to the new version. So now, all are truly one.

DSC00545_SMALL.jpg


As with every one of my bespoke shirts going back to Anna Matuozzo in 2007, I had my monogram added just above the front hem, so it isn't seen when worn.

DSC00548_SMALL.jpg


A couple of ugly stepchildren managed to sneak aboard:

DSC00549_SMALL.jpg


Excited to start wearing these. Next, I think I need some sort of large scale gingham.
 

TheFoo

THE FOO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
26,710
Reaction score
9,853
Are you certain those are pure cotton?

I actually specifically asked. They were like what the **** kind of operation do you think we are. Anyway, it feels nothing like the slubby poly chambray from Simonnot Godard that people enjoy. It’s really just a meaty poplin. Much more refined “chambray” than most chambray. Must keep in mind the slightly slubby, fuzzy stuff was that way because of the polyester content. 100% quality cotton in a plain weave will be smooth like any other poplin.
 
Last edited:

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
27,320
Reaction score
69,987
I actually specifically asked. They were like what the **** kind of operation do you think we are. Anyway, it feels nothing like the slubby poly chambray from Simonnot Godard that people enjoy. It’s really just a meaty poplin. Much more refined “chambray” than most chambray. Must keep in mind the slightly slubby, fuzzy stuff was that way because of the polyester content. 100% quality cotton in a plain weave will me smooth like any other poplin.

Sorry, but I will only accept one test.
 

JJ Katz

Senior Member
Joined
May 31, 2018
Messages
625
Reaction score
676
Interesting shirt. I wonder how that collar looks without a tie... Or is it meant to be always worn with a tie?
 

romafan

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Nov 30, 2004
Messages
11,037
Reaction score
2,361
Are they short-sleeved? :confused2:

I wouldn't have guessed that you would choose to put your initials on the sleeves like that.
 

TheFoo

THE FOO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
26,710
Reaction score
9,853
Are they short-sleeved? :confused2:

I wouldn't have guessed that you would choose to put your initials on the sleeves like that.

What? No. The monogram is at the bottom of the front body panel.
 

bdavro23

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2014
Messages
3,699
Reaction score
4,475
A couple of thoughts:

-This looks like nice fabric. Or maybe interesting. Or, I dont know. Something. I'm generally not a fan of saturated shirtings, but I like these in isolation. I will be very interested in seeing them in the wild, please post pictures shortly.

-I second the request to see the collar in action, both with a tie and without. While it looks nice, I struggle to see this as a particularly unique, one of a kind collar. Looking forward to being proven wrong.

-You have to give Foo credit, he is nothing if not committed. I counted 10, though there are probably a dozen of those shirts now residing in his closet. Much like the one shoe thread that brought us all so much joy a few years ago, we now have the one shirt thread. Looking forward to seeing how this plays out and the slow burn it is guaranteed to bring.

-I actually really like the big stripe shirts. There needs to be more aggressive shirts on display I think. Maybe I'm just getting bored with white and pale blue in pictures.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
27,320
Reaction score
69,987
i think this is the collar when worn

 

romafan

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Nov 30, 2004
Messages
11,037
Reaction score
2,361
How does that video have so few views? It’s so good.



What was the final conclusion here? Judging by the "control" burn, it seems that the 'new' style IS cotton, but that the 'old' style was NOT. Is that correct? I guess we would need to somehow verify that the cotton t-shirt swatch WAS indeed 100% cotton. Any ideas?
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 91 38.1%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 89 37.2%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 25 10.5%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 38 15.9%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 37 15.5%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,781
Messages
10,591,728
Members
224,312
Latest member
akj_05_
Top