Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mr. Moo, Feb 28, 2011.
I appreciate that Sstomcat, thank you.
Hope I ended up in the right place. Just recently started appreciating nicer looking shoes, and so far only have some very modest dress shoes of no particular renown. However, I came across the below pair and could not resist them; I gather the brand--Edward Green--is quite decent and I do very much enjoy their looks. They are being sent to me via mail and ought to arrive tomorrow if all goes well.
However, being good quality shoes I want to ensure I treat them properly. My current shoes just see wiping off after use and a tin of Kiwi every couple of weeks, which seems to work well enough for them. These I imagine need a little more love though. Should I start with a clean and application of Saphir Renovateur? Also, there's a small stain on the left shoe (see pictures) which isn't something that would bother me, so is it best just to leave it and consider it part of their history?
Thanks in advance!
First...they need shoe trees...and they need to be brushed thoroughly.
Second...Reno might work well...since it is sort of a cleaner/conditioner.
Third...you could try to cover up that stain by applying some coats of cream polish over the course of several days...thinly apply a few coats per day...letting the shoes sit before adding each consecutive coat. But be warned...this will also alter the color of the shoes as they are now.
Fourth...finish it all off with a thin layer of wax polish to bring back the shine! Then brush thoroughly again.
A lot of my shoes have 1/4 rubber tip heels. Should they be repaired just before the rubber wears down or is it ok to go wearing them past the rubber element?
Is it possible to replace just the dovetail (that little jigsaw piece) and not the entire leather sole? I would figure the cost to replace that little piece is significantly cheaper than replacing the entire sole, which would require a full resole.
Since that piece varies in different sizes by different makers, I'm guessing it's diifficult to find a cobbler who has inventory?
If you wear past the rubber you'll begin to wear away the leather base. While such damage can be repaired, short of entirely replacing the layer that has been damaged, it will always be a repair job and always in danger of deconstructing itself.
If you're talking about the rubber piece on the heel, why would you need to replace the entire outsole if it is not damaged? The heel is separate. The toplift...whether it is constructed to have a rubber insert or not...is replaceable.
No, the whole toplift comes in a single piece. It is not possible to replace just the dovetail (or other shape) insert.
I guess one can just replace the toplift..should be much cheaper than a resole.
Thank you, DWF, you were helpful, as always.
Given that the rubber quarter heel is quite thin - even when brand new - it strikes me that anyone a bit 'hard on their heels' is going to need a heel repair reasonably often. Would you recommend replacing the quarter heel or having a full, leather, replacement, when the time comes?
Such combination toplifts are a compromise. All leather heels wear even faster than with the rubber insert. But perhaps look better. Often cleats or iron nails are added to all leather heels to mitigate that wear. but of course they pose their own problems. Noise if nothing else.
You could have both the toplift and another lift removed and replace both with a 'half heel" of rubber. Or even have the whole stack removed and replaced with a "whole heel' of rubber. This gives good wear, naturally. But is almost a hallmark of cheap shoes. If only because they have to be nailed on with the nails penetrating and often damaging the insole.
I had posted this sort of question over on the AE Appreciation thread, asking why these leather/rubber heels are even offered. Answer I got back was basically "it's indicative of better quality shoes". But that doesn't answer why? Is it just to say "ha ha ha ha, I've got leather on my heel as and you don't", or is it a historical thing that because once upon a time shoes were all leather, it's seen as high-end to have half-leather today? Is leather quieter, softer, harder wearing? Is there a practical reason? To me, living in a rainforest (Vancouver area), I've Topy'd a pair of shoes with the dovetail heels, but I really still have to be conscious of going outside when the pavement is damp, as the heel will turn mushy. So I've got a Topyd pair of fair-weather shoes, no? I'm not complaining, love the shoes, just curious. When the rubber part of the dovetail heel wears, I will undoubtedly replace with complete rubber heel pads. Appreciate any of the experts here chiming in! Thanks!
It also takes more time and more skill to make a heel with a leather heel base and a leather toplift. Less time, less skill=lower quality...in anything.
Unless of course brass nails are used.
Brass being a softer metal will wear at pretty much the same rate as the leather lift.
Because of that they won't slip or make noise.
Thanks for the comments! They showed up today and I think the guy must've used a flash or other poor lighting to take pics of them because they don't look nearly as bad in person. I gave one a quick brushing and it looks quite nice already. No luck finding Saphir locally but I did track down a tin of burgundy Kiwi which looks like it ought to work fine...
Question: I have 11 pairs of AE shoes and have always used shoe trees, cleaner/conditioner, and the appropriate colored AE polish for my shoes (sans suede shoes). Is there any real benefit for trying out Saphir? Will that get me anything that the AE polish doesn't already? I love the look of a patinated (sp?) leather!
Separate names with a comma.