The Official-ish DC Thread

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Found out last weekend that a local South Korean owned cleaners makes custom shirts. They take your measurements and send them to South Korea where they make the shirt and then ship it over. I plan to look through the fabric sample book they have this weekend and test this.

Assuming based on your handle that they're in Alexandria?

 

[smittycl]

Pretty awesome 42L even though I don’t need it. This eBay store usually has great NWT stuff and copies LuxeSwap’s model.

NWT Zegna Mila Black Wool Satin Peak Lapl Flat Front 1Btn Tuxedo Suit 42L | eBay

For full item description.

www.ebay.com

 

[hpreston]

I think @lordsuperb is the DC expert on them.

@lordsuperb thoughts on Steed MTM?

Headed into the office today. Put on a Kiton cotton/cashmere suit, Mashburn chambray shirt, vintage Needless Markup tie, Battisti square. I swear the sprezzy collar flip was unintentional.
View attachment 1444052

Looks great. Awesome collar sprez!

 

[lordsuperb]

@lordsuperb thoughts on Steed MTM?



Looks great. Awesome collar sprez!

I have bicycle carriage racing, casino gambling, Arsenal foozball, and strip club experience with Steed, but no MTM .

 

[hpreston]

I have bicycle carriage racing, casino gambling, Arsenal foozball, and strip club experience with Steed, but no MTM .

Sounds like at least one (if not more) story for whenever we can meet up again over an adult beverage.

 

[smittycl]

Sounds like at least one (if not more) story for whenever we can meet up again over an adult beverage.

The process was fun. Meet Steed in Hay Adams hotel right on Lafayette Square. Chat for a while, get measured, go though checklist of options. I had acquired some Fox Bros gray flannel as an impulse buy and needed it made up.

I brought the fabric with me and dropped it off. Decided on a SB three piece, working buttonholes, ticket pocket. They were able to widen the lapels a bit off their standard cut without issue. Pants were cuffed with pleats and side tabs.

Their factory in Europe made it up and sent it back to Steed. The factory said there wasn’t enough fabric for a three-piece. Edwyn thought there was and planned to make me a vest himself at no extra charge. He tried but realized there actually wasn’t enough (I had 3.5m and I’m 42L). Anyway, they refunded the difference and sent me a two piece. No harm, no foul.

Suit fit very well but needed the pant legs shortened and seat brought in a bit. I went back to see them and they checked it out and then took it back to UK. I got it back a few weeks later.

Pretty neat experience but I doubt I’ll repeat it for MTM. I’d go with them for bespoke if I ever choose to go down that $$$ route, though. I’ve decided to stick with RTW for the most part as I’m usually an easy fit. I will likely try NMWA’s Carrara MTM for the Summer Tweed if I decide to make it up. Still on the fence.

I can bring the Steed to a meet-up if you want to see it. Cheers!

 

[lordsuperb]

The process was fun. Meet Steed in Hay Adams hotel right on Lafayette Square. Chat for a while, get measured, go though checklist of options. I had acquired some Fox Bros gray flannel as an impulse buy and needed it made up.

I brought the fabric with me and dropped it off. Decided on a SB three piece, working buttonholes, ticket pocket. They were able to widen the lapels a bit off their standard cut without issue. Pants were cuffed with pleats and side tabs.

Their factory in Europe made it up and sent it back to Steed. The factory said there wasn’t enough fabric for a three-piece. Edwyn thought there was and planned to make me a vest himself at no extra charge. He tried but realized there actually wasn’t enough (I had 3.5m and I’m 42L). Anyway, they refunded the difference and sent me a two piece. No harm, no foul.

Suit fit very well but needed the pant legs shortened and seat brought in a bit. I went back to see them and they checked it out and then took it back to UK. I got it back a few weeks later.

Pretty neat experience but I doubt I’ll repeat it for MTM. I’d go with them for bespoke if I ever choose to go down that $$$ route, though. I’ve decided to stick with RTW for the most part as I’m usually an easy fit. I will likely try NMWA’s Carrara MTM for the Summer Tweed if I decide to make it up. Still on the fence.

I can bring the Steed to a meet-up if you want to see it. Cheers!

MTM factories usually require more fabric to make a suit. I’m sure he could’ve made you a three piece if you had gone the expensive route.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

MTM factories usually require more fabric to make a suit. I’m sure he could’ve made you a three piece if you had gone the expensive route.

Is that because for MTM they leave more excessive fabric in the seams to allow for future alterations?

 

[hpreston]

Appreciate the summary.

After having had the suit a while, how do you like it?

 

[lordsuperb]

Is that because for MTM they leave more excessive fabric in the seams to allow for future alterations?

MTM factories aren't efficient in their cutting process. Bespoke tailors will leave additional seam allowance for future alterations but will give you **** when you gain weight.

 

[smittycl]

Appreciate the summary.

After having had the suit a while, how do you like it?

It’s my favorite fall/winter suit now. Pairs well with dark brown Chelsea boots in crappy weather. It supplanted a heavy Phineas Cole suit I just sent to LuxeSwap.

The last two winters have been nothing-burgers and I usually didn’t even need an overcoat when wearing it.

 

[smittycl]

I did figure out that buying your own fabric really doesn’t save money. Best deal is just to go with the books your maker can access.

 

[hpreston]

I did figure out that buying your own fabric really doesn’t save money. Best deal is just to go with the books your maker can access.

Last year was really the first year I did anything beyond off the peg, so I don’t have a ton of experience. But in general, it seems that acquiring your own fabric is really only necessary when theres something really special or different...... was contemplating getting enough for a sportcoat of the Permanent Style Escorial tweed. I still might, but most tailoring houses have plenty of variety to choose from.

 

[smittycl]

Last year was really the first year I did anything beyond off the peg, so I don’t have a ton of experience. But in general, it seems that acquiring your own fabric is really only necessary when theres something really special or different...... was contemplating getting enough for a sportcoat of the Permanent Style Escorial tweed. I still might, but most tailoring houses have plenty of variety to choose from.

Yeah, totally agree for special stuff. The Fox Flannel was on my want list for a while so I pounced when it went on sale. I’ve done MTM with Brooks Brothers, Kent Wang, Ezra Paul and Steed.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Yeah, totally agree for special stuff. The Fox Flannel was on my want list for a while so I pounced when it went on sale. I’ve done MTM with Brooks Brothers, Kent Wang, Ezra Paul and Steed.

My three commissions from Ezra (blue tropical wool 2-piece, brown glen plaid flannel 3-piece, navy hopsack sportcoat) have all been from the full fabric rolls he purchased. It's a little limiting but buying from the cloth maker books is way out of my price range. The hopsack i'm waiting on is from a mill I hadn't heard of while something similar from one of the big name books would have been like 1k more. I'm not exactly a trained hand but honestly I couldn't tell the difference between the two.