The Armoury - Official Affiliate Thread

[PGS]

Is it just me, or do this season's sport coats feel a little bit pricier than usual?

Yes. This wool/cashmere Zegna is $2300:

Wool/Cashmere Herringbone Model 16 Sport Coat - The Armoury

Prior F/W wool/cashmere from Zegna was $1550:

Wool/Cashmere Model 11 Sport Coat - The Armoury

 

[ArcticExpeditioner21]

Does the Armoury restock their out of stock suits or do they just introduce new fabrics? (I.e., there is a covert wool charcoal suit I want but it’s OOS in a 52)

 

[hpreston]

Has anyone participated in a recent ring jacket trunk show and can provide some insight on the process / pricing etc.? Would be interested to know how the MTM pricing through the trunk show compares to the Armoury's usual mtm program.

Process is pretty simple. You start with a try on suit (or jacket if that’s what you’re going for), the team from Ring Jacket asses the fit, and note changes to your pattern. Once the fitting is done, you pick the fabric, and details like pocket styles, button, lining etc. Then you wait for finished piece……

Can’t comment on current pricing, but it’s based on fabric groups. Not sure what you mean by “usual” MTM program….. at the Armoury you can get measured by their staff for MTM by Ring Jacket, Orazio, Rota, 100 series, etc, at any time. The difference between “any time” and a Ring Jacket trunk show is the fitting by the Ring Jacket team, and unique (some dead stock) fabric choices during a trunk show

Different cut though why not focus on aesthetics first

See above, can get Ring Jacket MTM not during trunk show, so not sure which cut you’re comparing to. (100 series?)

Does the Armoury restock their out of stock suits or do they just introduce new fabrics? (I.e., there is a covert wool charcoal suit I want but it’s OOS in a 52)

Some standard items may be restocked, ”essential“ suits in navy or grey, balloon cloth jackets etc. Specialty seasonal fabrics (likely the covert) won’t likely be restocked. But if the fabric is still available, you could always do MTO

 

[epsilon22]

I didn't know RJ MTM is available outside of their trunk show, I thought only MTO is possible year-round. Maybe the website isn't up to date?

I think I'll check out the new navy Model 3 jacket along with the navy hopsack Model 101 (the more structured look is kinda growing on me, maybe it'd be more ideal for a suit, but I don't wear suit much at work).

I can take a look at the available fabric books for RJ MTO as well and check their Model 1 try on jackets. I don't recall ever seeing any RTW Model 1 in the store (or on the online shop).

 

[clee1982]

They phase out Model 1 a while back, personally I really like it (though pretty sure model 3 out sold it).

I “think” Model 4 is just a peak lapel version of Model 1, so maybe there are RTW you can try in store?

 

[hpreston]

I didn't know RJ MTM is available outside of their trunk show, I thought only MTO is possible year-round. Maybe the website isn't up to date?
View attachment 2022105

I think I'll check out the new navy Model 3 jacket along with the navy hopsack Model 101 (the more structured look is kinda growing on me, maybe it'd be more ideal for a suit, but I don't wear suit much at work).

I can take a look at the available fabric books for RJ MTO as well and check their Model 1 try on jackets. I don't recall ever seeing any RTW Model 1 in the store (or on the online shop).

Maybe I was able to order RJ MTM after a trunk show because I had already been fitted during a trunk show??? Not sure here. I defer to The Armoury team.

They phase out Model 1 a while back, personally I really like it (though pretty sure model 3 out sold it).

I “think” Model 4 is just a peak lapel version of Model 1, so maybe there are RTW you can try in store?

I also like the Model 1. But I think you’re right about Model 3 sales.

Sometimes though, a little variety is nice.

 

[epsilon22]

Maybe I was able to order RJ MTM after a trunk show because I had already been fitted during a trunk show??? Not sure here. I defer to The Armoury team.

That might be the case, I'll probably ask them about it next time I visit.

By the way, what do you and @clee1982 think about Model 1 as a sport coat, possibly with patch pockets? I like the cleaner shoulder lines of my padded suit jackets, but I don't know if that'd be out of place with odd jackets.

 

[clee1982]

I would do jet pocket rather than patch on Model 1 sport coat

 

[hpreston]

That might be the case, I'll probably ask them about it next time I visit.

By the way, what do you and @clee1982 think about Model 1 as a sport coat, possibly with patch pockets? I like the cleaner shoulder lines of my padded suit jackets, but I don't know if that'd be out of place with odd jackets.

I would do jet pocket rather than patch on Model 1 sport coat

I’m (mostly) with @clee1982 on the model 1, flapped or jetted pockets, not patch pockets.

 

[The False Prophet]

and to confuse people further, I'm 99.8% EU46, Model 1 and Model 3 are the only exception where I take EU44..., but at least Model 1 and Model 3 are consistent..., so I would say whatever you got in Model 1 you should get same size in Model 3.

Hello,

What other brands do you take EU46 in?

And, may I please ask in general how people find the fit of Armoury trousers?

I am trying myself to work out if I'm a 46 or 48. I find a 48 in mainline Ring Jacket (ie 253 cut) too tight, but then I wear a 46 in the RJ for Beams line (called Brilla Per Il Gusto), albeit that is snug these days also.

I've seen the Armoury's fit video with Mark modelling a 48 in Model 3 and RJ 184 (which is slimmer than their other models), but it only looks at the jackets.

On paper, the trousers are both roomier and considerably higher cut than RJ mainline, which has a crazy low rise.

Thanks in advance,
TFP

 

[kid1002]

Chiming in as I finally had a chance to visit The Armoury on a trip to NYC.

Speaking purely about sport jackets here, I am 1.74m/66kg and EU 46 in Suitsupply's Havana fit (fits nicely), Beams F's mainline products made by Ring Jacket (fits snug and borderline tight), Ring Jacket's No.184 (fits snug and borderline tight), Ring Jacket's No.254H (fits nicely), Orazio Luciano (perfect fit), and Cesare Attolini (perfect fit).

I found the Model 101 in EU 46 fits perfect for me, but the Model 3 makes me look ballooned in the same size. I found the Model 3 in EU 44 instead works better for me, but I enjoyed the stronger shoulder better on the Model 101 as I found it made my head appear smaller.

 

[clee1982]

Hello,

What other brands do you take EU46 in?

And, may I please ask in general how people find the fit of Armoury trousers?

I am trying myself to work out if I'm a 46 or 48. I find a 48 in mainline Ring Jacket (ie 253 cut) too tight, but then I wear a 46 in the RJ for Beams line (called Brilla Per Il Gusto), albeit that is snug these days also.

I've seen the Armoury's fit video with Mark modelling a 48 in Model 3 and RJ 184 (which is slimmer than their other models), but it only looks at the jackets.

On paper, the trousers are both roomier and considerably higher cut than RJ mainline, which has a crazy low rise.

Thanks in advance,
TFP

Nearly everything in EU46, RLBL, RLPL,PRL, TF, BB, Cornelani, Boglioli, LBM, Anthology, non Armoury Ring Jacket (though 184 is tight, 254 works better), Husband Paris, Paul Stuart, Phineas Cole, old Eidos, Thom Sweeney, Richard James, Kilgour, Dunhill, Attolini, any fashion brand

Only exception I can think of is Model 1, Model 3 and whatever full canvass soft shoulder thing SuitSupply had a while back (Jort?) were in EU44 and maybe Kiton

Though maybe in some Ciffonelli older model I would need EU48, don’t 100% recall

I never bought odd trouser RJ separately so can’t help you exactly, though the matching ones came with armoury is fine in Eu44

 

[kid1002]

Nearly everything in EU46, RLBL, RLPL,PRL, TF, BB, Cornelani, Boglioli, LBM, Anthology, non Armoury Ring Jacket (though 184 is tight, 254 works better), Husband Paris, Paul Stuart, Phineas Cole, old Eidos, Thom Sweeney, Richard James, Kilgour, Dunhill, Attolini, any fashion brand

Only exception I can think of is Model 1, Model 3 and whatever full canvass soft shoulder thing SuitSupply had a while back (Jort?) were in EU44 and maybe Kiton

Though maybe in some Ciffonelli older model I would need EU48, don’t 100% recall

I never bought odd trouser RJ separately so can’t help you exactly, though the matching ones came with armoury is fine in Eu44

Same here for me in regards to the Jort fit from Suitsupply. I also had to size down from a 46 to a 44. For some reason it just felt larger and not just in terms of subjective proportions.

 

[hitsuji]

Same here for me in regards to the Jort fit from Suitsupply. I also had to size down from a 46 to a 44. For some reason it just felt larger and not just in terms of subjective proportions.

I tried a Model 253 on a 46 and fits like a gem. Equally wear a size 46 on the SuSu Jort Jackets

I would do jet pocket rather than patch on Model 1 sport coat

I’m (mostly) with @clee1982 on the model 1, flapped or jetted pockets, not patch pockets.

How do you both feel about the model 1 as a sports coat? Does it lend to looking more like a suit seperate rather than a standalone? Especially due to more structure and the jetted pockets?

 

[clee1982]

This is anthology, roping and jet pocket sport coat, so I say up to you

Post in thread 'The Hong Kong Tailors Thread'
https://www.styleforum.net/threads/the-hong-kong-tailors-thread.33568/post-11494931