SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[Gus]

I'm all for more of a break on wider trousers, but go for a shorter inseam on trim fit pant.

 

[dieworkwear]

Lots of talk about Armani and Jil Sander when it comes to pooling, but little about Ricky from Trailer Park Boys (a style icon)

 

[true.to.size]

From my memory of wearing wider pants with breaks/pools as a 90s youth, they always seemed to quickly fray at the back hem, which scraped against the ground. I like a clean break for the longevity of the pants alone.

 

[clee1982]

angle hem not to the floor should solve that problem?

 

[sipang]

More big pants agenda pushing, random stuff



Alan See from The Armoury



Old Joe lookbook



a Beams dude whose name escapes me

 

[sipang]

Bent Van Looy works some pretty conventional CM-flavored stuff (I think he uses some local tailor) into more relaxed outfits pretty organically.

It's certainly a fine line from this to just sloppy CM/CM casual but I think it falls on the good side here (especially the first two) though it's very possible it's entirely down to the wearer/context. Still, undeniable comfyness.

 

[FlyingMonkey]

Bent Van Looy works some pretty conventional CM-flavored stuff (I think he uses some local tailor) into more relaxed outfits pretty organically.

It's certainly a fine line from this to just sloppy CM/CM casual but I think it falls on the good side here (especially the first two) though it's very possible it's entirely down to the wearer/context. Still, undeniable comfyness.

I'm on the edge about these. A lot of it (and let's face it, a lot of what we like in menswear in general) has to do with photography / scene-setting. Photographed differently I suspect he'd just look like an alcoholic office worker who'd woken up in the local park after a night he couldn't remember. But somehow I still like the sense he gives out that he doesn't give a **** (when in fact, he clearly does).

 

[sipang]

For sure, tenuous stuff. Still, something appealing about trying to walk that tightrope (and basking in the ambiguity/failure of the end result)

 

[Parker]

@sipang how do you feel about "big pants" on shorter (but not necessarily skinny) dudes

 

[cb200]

the sense he gives out that he doesn't give a **** (when in fact, he clearly does).

Perfect. That' is about as good a distillation of the razors edge of cool as one could get. Also, a beer sipping friendly set-up wearing bro (but not looking like half-drunk office guy after sleeping in a park) might be the vibe shift for me this year.

 

[Sir Jack II]

@sipang how do you feel about "big pants" on shorter (but not necessarily skinny) dudes

I’m still getting used to SF people’s enthusiasm for pants that seem sized for a skateboarder in the 90s. I don’t think it’s particularly flattering on men, and especially not on short men.

 

[krudsma]

Bent Van Looy works some pretty conventional CM-flavored stuff (I think he uses some local tailor) into more relaxed outfits pretty organically.

It's certainly a fine line from this to just sloppy CM/CM casual but I think it falls on the good side here (especially the first two) though it's very possible it's entirely down to the wearer/context. Still, undeniable comfyness.

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I like that first one a lot. I feel like when you compare the first pic and third pic you can see the importance of the shoulder. The first pic has an extended shoulder which makes it feel like a cohesive, slouchy fit; the silhouette in the third pic feels off (even though the jacket fits him well). It looks like he's trying to dress down the jacket he got at SuitSupply.

 

[sipang]

@sipang how do you feel about "big pants" on shorter (but not necessarily skinny) dudes

I don't really think height matters. I'm guessing Alan See and the Beams guy are not that tall and it seems to work for them. From anecdotal instagram evidence, the most ardent champions of that look are in fact overwhelmingly Japanese too.
I don't really get this 'not flattering' nonsense tbh (then again I think a good chunk of good CM fits crash and burn from the knees down so we're maybe charting heterodox waters here).

 

[clee1982]

Probably just have to get used to it, think a decent chunk of my suit pants are still 8.25 in leg opening (for EU46 would think mainstream today is like 7 to 7.5in) might still have a few at 8.5in, not big pants but definitely a lot more than mainstream today (and I’m 5’7”).

 

[sipang]

Yeah 8.25 for a 46 doesn't seem that slim to me.
I think I might have a slightly generous notion of what big pants are, I doesn't even have to be absolutely massive (even though I do like my 90s skateboarder nostalgia) but as you say, the pendulum has swung so far the tight and cropped way that even a very user-friendly straight leg seems big nowadays. Big pants is a big tent.