SW&D Theory? (CM's Free For All Help Thread)

[cyc wid it]

Your look will likely change too

 

[Tirailleur1]

I have to say that this has been the best thread in SF in a long time.


Also like how much info SWD is providing to people who are trying to learn.

 

[Caustic Man]

Your look will likely change too

Oh I don't doubt it. It has changed a lot in the last few weeks. I can only imagine what it will be a year from now!

I have to say that this has been the best thread in SF in a long time.


Also like how much info SWD is providing to people who are trying to learn.

The support has been astonishing. I can't thank everyone enough.

 

[Tirailleur1]

Oh I don't doubt it. It has changed a lot in the last few weeks. I can only imagine what it will be a year from now!


The support has been astonishing. I can't thank everyone enough.

@Caustic Man another member you might want to look at is @gdl203

He and Parker are one of the first OGs to really get the CM/SWD thing down

 

[Caustic Man]

I will certainly do that. I'm interested to see how they pulled it off because some of the early feedback I got in SWD seemed to be based on the fact that I am a long time CM dresser. I think people thought that I would be more comfortable in oxford shirts, polos, and khakis. The fact is, I want my CM and SWD styles to be nothing like one another.

 

[gdl203]



The fact is, I want my CM and SWD styles to be nothing like one another. 

This is the right way to think about it.

Going one step further, you don't have to have one SWD style. You don't have to belong to one tribe. Enjoy trying different styles and emulating looks that you just think are cool or badass.

There's an element in this that shouldn't be overlooked : that feeling of freedom when you wear something you like and think is just cool, without any regard for your age or how your neighbors and friends may judge you for that. There are lots of assholes on the Internet with terrible opinions and who like to project their frustrations and insecurities and tell people how they should dress - **** them. **** them all. If it's the weekend and/or you don't have to follow a specific dress code, find that freedom and enjoy it.

 

[Cotton Dockers]

Well said, @gdl203

Probably your best one yet @Caustic Man . While I agree a tunic/long shirt could be good there, I would be hesitant to recommend that you spend money on something like that at this point, it can be a tough look to pull off, and unless you are comfortable in something like that it won't be enjoyable to wear. I think you will see that as you explore more "SWD Brands", while brand itself is certainly not the be all and end all (and plenty of CM piece can work in these types of fits - just see Tira/GDL/Parker, etc.), there is a certain aesthetic that pieces created for these types of looks will help to cultivate.

 

[LA Guy]

Thanks for the feedback. I think the shirt I am wearing is about as drapey as I am willing to go for me personally in that fit. I can definitely see how others might be able to pull off a really full shirt though. I think I am slowly and tentatively beginning to establish a "look" of my own. Even if it is still very much a work in progress.

From what I gather, you want something with a bit more structure, and I get that. Way back, in about 1999 (maybe 2000) , I was presented with a dilemma. Go drapey with early Margiela, or go more structured with early Jil Sander Men's (with Menichetti, who likes construction that lends itselft to more structure, like french seams with slightly heavier fabrics), and went with Jil. That the shoulders were not dropped, etc.., were important to me.

I think that a popover, which a lot of more "traditional" shirtmakers are doing these days, would make you feel confortable and look good, both of which are important.

For that specific look, I can't think of anything better than this:
http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/clothing/shirts/hand-sewn-white-linen-popover-shirt.html, which could also easily work, tucked in, with high rise linene trousers and suede bucks, if you are feeling a bit Amalfi coast, as well.

 

[gdl203]

^ aka "pulling an Agnelli"

 

[LA Guy]

^ aka "pulling an Agnelli"

I like it. I could never do it. It's actually antithetical to how I personally dress, but I like it. I wonder what would Mick Jagger have worn to the Amalfi Coast in the 60s.

 

[Caustic Man]

This is the right way to think about it.

Going one step further, you don't have to have one SWD style. You don't have to belong to one tribe. Enjoy trying different styles and emulating looks that you just think are cool or badass.

There's an element in this that shouldn't be overlooked : that feeling of freedom when you wear something you like and think is just cool, without any regard for your age or how your neighbors and friends may judge you for that. There are lots of assholes on the Internet with terrible opinions and who like to project their frustrations and insecurities and tell people how they should dress - **** them. **** them all. If it's the weekend and/or you don't have to follow a specific dress code, find that freedom and enjoy it.

At this point in my life this is what is most important to me. That isn't to say that what other people think isn't important however I just know the point that I get when I feel like I like something despite what anyone says. That doesn't mean I'm "right" it just means that's the way I feel when I wear it.

Well said, @gdl203

Probably your best one yet @Caustic Man . While I agree a tunic/long shirt could be good there, I would be hesitant to recommend that you spend money on something like that at this point, it can be a tough look to pull off, and unless you are comfortable in something like that it won't be enjoyable to wear. I think you will see that as you explore more "SWD Brands", while brand itself is certainly not the be all and end all (and plenty of CM piece can work in these types of fits - just see Tira/GDL/Parker, etc.), there is a certain aesthetic that pieces created for these types of looks will help to cultivate.

The interesting this is that I was raised wearing long Indian style kurtas. I was raised in a Hindu religion after my mom converted (I'm Mexican and Irish incidentally). For so many years I have abandoned that and tried to be just like your average Joe America. I may be ready to look again at the long shirt deal, though admittedly not in the original context that I wore it in as a child.

From what I gather, you want something with a bit more structure, and I get that. Way back, in about 1999 (maybe 2000) , I was presented with a dilemma. Go drapey with early Margiela, or go more structured with early Jil Sander Men's (with Menichetti, who likes construction that lends itselft to more structure, like french seams with slightly heavier fabrics), and went with Jil. That the shoulders were not dropped, etc.., were important to me.

I think that a popover, which a lot of more "traditional" shirtmakers are doing these days, would make you feel confortable and look good, both of which are important.

For that specific look, I can't think of anything better than this:
http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/clothing/shirts/hand-sewn-white-linen-popover-shirt.html, which could also easily work, tucked in, with high rise linene trousers and suede bucks, if you are feeling a bit Amalfi coast, as well.

See, this is the problem. I like drapey and structured. I want to be able to do both. People seem to have said that this is hard to pull off and I'm sure that is true, but maybe I will try. No doubt there will be missteps. Maybe big ones. But it will be fun.

 

[King Calder]

Subbed and fascinated. Thanks for all the knowledge in here guys. As a fairly young noob to bonafide SWD, this is all really interesting to read.

 

[eazye]

Great thread guys, I'm kind of going through a similer transition myself. I sway to the cm side of things, but last fall I really fell hard for quality knits, big ass coats and tailored trousers. I'm in the process of getting rid of a bunch of suits and sport coats that I never really wear too much anyways, to focus on more these things. Thanks for all the input from the SW&D bigwigs, it's always good to get perspective from established members on things of this nature.

 

[TheloniusDrunk]

A younger, more naïve me thought I wanted to become a CM aficionado. Thus I lurked and studied CM and gained a respectable understanding of the CM rules and structures and ideas. But a slightly older and still foolish me now realizes that I don’t really need to dress CM, and most of the time I’d prefer not to unless I’m feeling proper. So time to follow you Caustic Man, thanks for the thread. Thank you everyone else for the input thus far. Subscribing and imbibing knowlege.

 

[MGoCrimson]

Dunno if this is the right place to ask, but does anyone know of a store that carries KK Attachment in the states? Or something with a similar aesthetic as their long coats?