Suitsupply NYC

[kulata]



Kulata, I don't think the creases in the upper back are caused by shoulder blade tightness, but clearly from a high left/low right shoulder imbalance. What do you think?

He has a dropped right shoulder like most of us but the fabric still pulls and bunches up. I don't think the pulling will go away if you add pads to even out the shoulders. But clearly the suit is too small even if it's based solely on the chest measurement.

 

[TweedyProf]

Kulata's got it on fit. You need to size up on chest, but the shoulders fit you so it will be a challenge to see if you can get that balance to work from SS (see an earlier poster who had the same problem). Length seems fine, but one really needs a straight up, full length shot to see. It might just cover your entire seat which is one rule.

On the gray jacket issue, as Celadon notes, it is not SF liked, but important to understand why: it looks like an orphan suit jacket and not a made to stand alone blazer. This has none of the hallmarks of a blazer such as a stronger pattern, rougher hand (e.g. tweed), patch pockets. Of course, almost no one outside SF will care.. Why is orphan a problem? Well, suits are suits and SCs are SCs (roughly). It's about an aesthetic norm which most people ignore. Up to you.

So, length looks ok as do the shoulders. But it's tight in important places. See if sizing up will help without losing shoulder cleanness, and unless you have a treasure trove of SCs, get a blue one with patch pockets or at least non-black buttons.

 

[MilanoStyle]



Got a 40L Lazio fit suit today in the mail. However, I am a bit disappointed as the jacket length measures about .6 inches longer than the online measurements say it should. I think this makes the jack a bit too long for me, especially if I was going to wear it as an odd jacket, which I was planning on. Thoughts?

Too bad because otherwise it fits very well OTR.

The jacket is not long. Actually, it's on boarder line of being short, IMO. You have low right shoulder- creating diagonal lines at the back and bowing out lapel. Do you have the same problems with other OTR jackets that you own? Jacket seams to fit tight around your belly area for some reason; creating X around button closure and pulling at the lower back. I think you may need to choose another cut.

 

[citizenshame]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm surprised to hear anyone say the jacket seems to short, as it easily goes past my buttocks in the rear. What I'm noticing from the pictures is that the length from the front seems okay but from the back it seems much longer. Maybe that has something to do with my posture. Also, as far as the chest is concerned, I think I was sucking in for the pictures I posted. Kind of dumb for fit pics. Here is another one in a more relaxed posture from the front:

I have ordered a 42R and we'll see how the fit compares. My hope is that it will be slightly shorter. It will also give me a bit more room in the chest, which apparently may be needed.

 

[TweedyProf]

The fit looks better there. I think the length is fine and from what I can tell from the pics, it's not too long. Indeed, I'm not sure I'd go shorter as it might start to end up too high at the hips and accentuate in a less flattering way. The stance is just right, give or take 0.5 inches.

I always find it hard to judge myself the back length given the angle's one has over the shoulder, but from the front, the bottom of the jacket should be just at the fork in the pants where the two inseams meet.

The chest looks less bowed in your natural posture though it appears to be still there. But one could live with that, especially if this is a deal (though again, why grey?). Does this resolve some of the issues with the back?

 

[citizenshame]

The back still has excess fabric, but on most my suits that is resolved by taking down the collar. I have pretty square shoulders with little slope, so that creates some bunching between the shoulder blades. I'm sure my shoulder drop is an issue, too, but taking up the collar should fix most of the problem. I'll post fit pics of the 42R when I get it and I'll return the one that will require more alterations. Thanks again.

 

[kulata]



Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm surprised to hear anyone say the jacket seems to short, as it easily goes past my buttocks in the rear. What I'm noticing from the pictures is that the length from the front seems okay but from the back it seems much longer. Maybe that has something to do with my posture. Also, as far as the chest is concerned, I think I was sucking in for the pictures I posted. Kind of dumb for fit pics. Here is another one in a more relaxed posture from the front:

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I have ordered a 42R and we'll see how the fit compares. My hope is that it will be slightly shorter. It will also give me a bit more room in the chest, which apparently may be needed.

I'd manage the length for a casual jacket but it's too short for a suit except you don't mind the "current" short trend.

 

[MrTopCat]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I'm surprised to hear anyone say the jacket seems to short, as it easily goes past my buttocks in the rear. What I'm noticing from the pictures is that the length from the front seems okay but from the back it seems much longer. Maybe that has something to do with my posture. Also, as far as the chest is concerned, I think I was sucking in for the pictures I posted. Kind of dumb for fit pics. Here is another one in a more relaxed posture from the front:

I have ordered a 42R and we'll see how the fit compares. My hope is that it will be slightly shorter. It will also give me a bit more room in the chest, which apparently may be needed.

The jacket is not too long, nor far too short.

It is covering your backside, which is the first rule of jacket length, for both suits and odd jackets that is.

Personally I'd go for a slightly longer jacket (Can't be too picky with OTR though), but try not to go for anything shorter than this, as it will look odd in a few years once the trend for short jackets is over.

As for a light grey jacket being worn with dark trousers, sure in principle it's not a good idea, but can look good if you execute it correctly.

Take Spoo as an example:



Though in this case the patch pockets do help, but you could always tuck in your flap pockets. Not all of us have the cash for an abundance of odd jackets.

Also note the jacket length is similar to yours.

 

[citizenshame]

Thanks. In Spoo's case, though, the jacket hits the first joint on his thumb. Mine extends to the second joint on the thumb--about an inch longer. That's about the length I think my jacket is too long. But, hey, given the consensus that my jacket is if anything too short, I think I will stop disagreeing and accept the advice I'm getting. Lol.

 

[Seattle206]

I think you can make a good case (be friendly but firm) that you were sold a suit that was one size too small in the chest given the lapel bowing. That's just a fitting 101 blunder. You can figure out what would be a reasonable compensation for this. In the worst case, they should let out the waist again and you will have to wear it unbuttoned. But they should compensate you somehow.

I also think that given your physique, for OTR, you won't need to nip the waist and can use a little more room at the waist (models will vary). Your torso needs no help in being emphasized (which is partly what the nipped waist does for us less shapely folk). Magnifying it by aggressive waist nipping tends to be feminizing. I take the point by another poster about the stitching showing on the material, though shouldn't usually be a problem with wool.

Monkeyface is right about the shoulders. The 42 is passable but the 40R shoulder fits you; you need that with the 42 chest.

On MTM: this is tricky. You need a 42 chest but 40 shoulder. I don't know if they can do that but other posters can weigh in (I assumed that they start with a 40 body, for example, and then adjust that pattern). But you should ask. Note also that the MTM person is not a tailor and you might run into the same problems as with a bad SA. It is important to approach that process with lots of knowledge.

Went back today and the manager disagreed with what I said about the fit on the back. I showed him how it looks like someone is ripping my jacket apart from the back and the curves made the jacket look odd in the back.He said it looks great and he's willing to let it out prior to alterations, but doesn't think it will look good in his opinion from years of mens wear experience. He also said because of my chest, MTM would turn out the same in the front. My chest measured out to a 39. I talked to him for about an hour with the same end results & him telling me that people usually walk in here thinking they need 2 sizes up.

So I'm stuck with an ill fitting suit. Should I email customer support with pictures?

I tried on the Lazio 40R:






And the Havana 42S:

 

[Szeph el raton]

I don't know if anyone is interested but I took pics of 5 different SuSu jackets from the front. They are unaltered except for sleeve length. All are 38R / EU48. I'm 175cm tall and weigh in at 70kg. I'm obviously a fan of the gym and icecream so I have an average build (could post pic but don't think you guys would appreciate the horror) with rather big thighs and ass.

None of the jackets fit perfect (which no OTR jacket I ever tried did). The roomiest are clearly Napoli and Soho, Lazio in the middle and then Havana and Washington more fitted.

Jackets are:
Napoli Lazio
Washington Soho Havana

 

[V1KTA222]

Thanks for the comparison, szeph. I like the way the Napoli and Lazio fit the best. I'm surprised you take the same size in Napoli and Havana, as the shoulder measurement is different by an inch. Do they feel the same to you?

 

[Szeph el raton]

The main difference regarding the shoulders is the amount of padding. The Havana has basically none while the Napoli has quite a bit, therefore you can get away with a bit wider shoulders in Napoli.
The main difference for me is the chest. Havana and Washington are clearly tighter here than for example Napoli or Lazio.
Tomorrow I can take front, back and shoulder pictures of all jackets. I think it's also quite obvious how the SF holy grail of unpadded, natural shoulders can be non-beneficial if you don't have a strong natural V taper.

To put it into perspective, I have a completely different physique than Gosroth a few pages back and therfore completely different fit problems.
When it comes to the pants, the EU48 pants are okish. I have the problem that I would need 48 in the legs and seat while I need 46 in the waist so that's again a task for my tailor. Obviously I'm no guy for skinny, short no-break pants.

 

[SamF]

Are my eyes deceiving me or is the Lazio slightly longer than the Napoli as well as the buttoning point being a touch lower?

My thoughts generally: I really dislike the look of the Washington, and am not keen on the Havana either. On the other hand I like both the Lazio and Napoli, may give the Lazio a go at some point myself. I do wish they'd move the buttoning point down on the Napoli though.

 

[ShawnBC]

Thanks for the comparison, szeph. I like the way the Napoli and Lazio fit the best. I'm surprised you take the same size in Napoli and Havana, as the shoulder measurement is different by an inch. Do they feel the same to you?

I wear the same size in Havana and their Tuxedo fit as well. Shoulder difference is caused by addition of a light padding, but to the wearer, they fit the same. Chest and abdomen is the main difference. My tailor took in the tux waist a little bit (boxy look on me) but the Havana has some slight pulling - when I'll lose 5-10lbs, will look perfect! Like Szeph, I'm a (ex that's starting again) gym go-er with strong shoulders.

I got fooled by Suit Supply website when they said: Havana is our most relaxed fit. By relaxed, I thought they meant "loose fitting" but they clearly meant in a "casual degree", because apart from Copenhagen, maybe (?), Havana is clearly on of their slimmer and close to the body fit.