UNIFORM LA CHILLICOTHE WORK JACKET Drop, going on right now.
Uniform LA's Chillicothe Work Jacket is an elevated take on the classic Detroit Work Jacket. Made of ultra-premium 14-ounce Japanese canvas, it has been meticulously washed and hand distressed to replicate vintage workwear that’s been worn for years, and available in three colors.
This just dropped today. If you missed out on the preorder, there are some sizes left, but they won't be around for long. Check out the remaining stock here
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I've never experienced gemming failure so I don't know what would happen or how it would feel like.
That particular stitch goed through 3 layers, the canvas (of the insole), the upper and the welt. I can see how serious problems would arise if the cement holding the canvast to the insole fails but even then my guess is that most 'SF approved' manufacturers would be able to re-last and replace the insole. My main point was that in my perception the cemented canvas/insole bond isn't as weak as others make it out to be. I doubt its the only thing that holds a GY welted shoe together though.
It's a bit like hifi speakers for me. Beyond a certain (price) point I can't hear difference in audio quality between a $$ speaker and a $$$$$ speaker. My sister who plays Cello 8 hrs a day can though and she says the more expensive ones I were slightly better.
Am I going to buy them? No.
Why not? Coz Im not enough of a connoisseur to hear the difference.
I never said GY wasn't a cost saving alternative. I don't mind that though if the result is me paying 600.- for a pair of shoes that will still last me 15 years instead of 1200.-
GY may not be the best available but its good enough for me (and quite a few others).
-edit-
Oh, to answer your questing; I think cement definitely plays a part in holding GY welted shoes together but its not the only thing holding them together.
I know words like 'cemented' and 'fused' are dirty words here on SF but as long as the gemming doesn't fail I see no reason why a GY welted construction would be inferior to a HW construction.
DW,
Can you just clarify what you mean by "if only because to do it correctly the underlying outsole must be clean and roughed up--eventually cutting into the stitching"? While I think I understand, I'm not sure I'll have the attention of an expert again anytime soon.
my guess is that most 'SF approved' manufacturers would be able to re-last and replace the insole. My main point was that in my perception the cemented canvas/insole bond isn't as weak as others make it out to be. I doubt its the only thing that holds a GY welted shoe together though.
It's a bit like hifi speakers for me. Beyond a certain (price) point I can't hear difference in audio quality between a $$ speaker and a $$$$$ speaker. My sister who plays Cello 8 hrs a day can though and she said the more expensive ones I were slightly better. I believe her.
Am I going to buy them? No.
Why not? Coz Im not enough of a connoisseur to hear the difference.
I'm not gonna pay for something that, even though its better, will not benefit me.
I never said GY wasn't a cost saving alternative. I don't mind that though if the result is me paying 600.- for a pair of shoes that will still last me 15 years instead of 1200.-
GY may not be the best available but its good enough for me (and quite a few others).
-edit-
Oh, to answer your questing; I think cement definitely plays a part in holding GY welted shoes together but its not the only thing holding them together.
I know words like 'cemented' and 'fused' are dirty words here on SF but as long as the gemming doesn't fail I see no reason why a GY welted construction would be inferior to a HW construction.
^ Agreed, Crat. I've never experienced a GYW shoe failing either, after owning several pairs for nigh on 20 years now.
In the past I have commented that IMO the argument of gemming vs. hand-stitched is over-rated.
We do about 30 pair of high-grade re-crafts per day. In my 40 years I have seen tens of thousands of pair. They range anywhere from $15,000.00 custom made Kiton crocs. To J&M's. Retail price ranges on an average pair is between $600.00 and $1500.00. Of course hand stitched is better. Anytime an upper can be attached directly to the welt it will be more secure than using an extra component. That's only common sense. However, the amount of times that we condemned a pair of shoes for re-crafting because of gemming failure is so insignificant I don't even consider it a factor.
If fact, I've seen many more pair that the welt thread failed -or- the holes in the upper that the welt goes through tore than gemming failure.
Sorry but I just don't get the argument here....
What makes Blake-rapid superior to GYW?