Sole Welting

[coloRLOw]

Yes, this would look like a HW, as the GYW would leave marks or indentations much closer to the outside. Could we have other photos of the shoe and sole? If it was HW, would be great to see more of the shoe.

thank you!

this is a tan sock Santoni FAM which finish is nicer than most of my other santonis FAM, eg. finer welt stitch, round instep ( most santoni is square i think)

BTW, i also see that sag on other shoes like Meccariello RTW and some kiton

 

[Kobletas]

@DWFII

I just saw your shank stitching in this thread. Is this standard for bespoke makers? How bad is it when a bespoke maker just glues the shank in place? What other methods are there?

 

[DWFII]

@DWFII

I just saw your shank stitching in this thread. Is this standard for bespoke makers? How bad is it when a bespoke maker just glues the shank in place? What other methods are there?

@Kobletas Which post was that?

I suspect, I am among the very few although I am not sure that even among makers who don't lace the shank in, that they even glue it in place--usually it's just more or less laying in there.

 

[Kobletas]

It may be worth noting that commercially made shanks ...even wooden ones...are often riveted to fairly thick pieces of paperboard and / or cut to the shape of the shank cavity. This is esp. true and relevant to GY welted shoes. In such cases no cork filler is used in the waist.

Bespoke makers (or small workshops) often have cause to split thicker pieces of leather...a 10 iron belly to 6 iron, for instance. The scrap--the split-off--can be used in much the same way as the cardboard for HW shoes--as a bottom filler in the waist.

That said, while, or perhaps because, I like to sew the shanks into every shoe I make, small gaps or voids in and around the waist are not particularly a problem. a good quality insole is not going to collapse into those small areas esp. since the waist is relatively rigid by comparison to the forepart. Nor is the outsole likely to be affected. The only problem that might be created is that if a shank is not fixed in place, such voids might allow it to move around, maybe even out of position. some commercial shanks have holes or a barb to prevent just such movement.

Here's a photo of a sewn-in shank:

I've been doing this for over 40 years (don't know where I learned it) but I note several other bespoke makers such as James Ducker do something similar.

This was the post. I asked two bespoke makers and they use glue to hold the shank in place. I wonder if it's paste or cement.

 

[DWFII]

This was the post. I asked two bespoke makers and they use glue to hold the shank in place. I wonder if it's paste or cement.

Well, there you go. The only shanks I've ever seen cemented in were GYW factory shoes and which use a spot or two of hot glue. But frankly it's not something I've been much interested in monitoring, convinced as I am that lacing the shank in has benefits that outweigh cement or paste.

PS...thanks for the link I didn't remember that photo. But, that said I lace/sew the shanks in on every style of boot or shoe I make, and use slightly different techniques depending on the type. For instance, here's one on a pair of boots...over one, under one, over one under one, etc..