$90 in customs fee is pretty heavy. What was the declared total? I order shoes that are $500-800 from the UK on a regular basis and the customs fee, if at all, would be at around $50 mark. Because of your height, I would say a small would be sufficient. A XS may work as well, but it will be more fitted. For heavier knits, I prefer them to be a bit loose. I only like my lightweight knits to be fitted.