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blackcheer

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I've def been missing the wool fabrics. Excited to see it in the Gloverall collab. And the use of down in the Nanga one. Although both are above my price point.

Nepenthes discusses the shift in fabrics here:


"Engineered Garments’ affection for natural fibers runs deep. Many of the brand’s items are manufactured in materials like cotton and wool in order to take advantage of properties like natural breathability or water protection. Other times, utilitarian qualities are purposefully eschewed, sacrificing technical elements for a feeling of grounded authenticity, explaining why a raincoat like the Drizzler Coat is made from easily soak-able Olive Cotton Ripstop or Khaki Double Cloth. Despite this enduring philosophy, a shift has occurred in the last few years, as Daiki has become more receptive to using synthetic fabrics.

A combination of improved technology and response to a changing marketplace have ushered more man-made materials into the Engineered Garments collection. Daiki views this shift as a learning process, as he balances more high-tech qualities like enhanced water resistance with the same raw emotional qualities his products draw from traditional textiles like twill and canvas. Despite any changes that may come, as a fashion brand, focus is ultimately placed on form over function, and the true hi-spec capabilities are left to the professionals."

I wish the shift towards synthetics wasn't at the expense of wool. Could have something to do with the Woolrich mill closing, as EG stopped using wool around the same time the US mill stopped running.

=

Maybe I didn't phrase it that well. There are some nice fabrics (love moleskin, which was absent for a while from EG) but compared to previous FW seasons, I felt like it was much weaker. The move towards poly wools the past few years has been a bit disappointing too.
 

Phullyman

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Aviator jacket and sweatshirt

43FACB36-E153-4FE1-95A5-6AAC066F9601.jpeg
 

xander_horst

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I'm looking at some EG work shirts and notice that the models that wear these for online shops are often sizing down. I've also read in this thread before that you should just go with your regular size because this is the way it is designed to be worn. I'm usually a medium and the trend in general with many brands now is moving towards the oversized but I'm not crazy about a shirt where the shoulder seam overshoots the shoulder by an inch or inches. The shirts then look 'blown out' to me. Should I just stay away from EG until the trend oscillates back or should I just buy and wear a size small? (I'm used to making compromises from buying Japanese brands - I often just unbutton/roll sleeves when they're too short).
 

illiterate

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You can size down if you want a slimmer fit but like you said, the intended look is for a more relaxed fit. All of EG should work TTS (imo), although some people like to also size down on some of the pants/bottoms.
 

Phullyman

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I used to size down but I realized the sleeves were too short and my upper chest/shoulders would be tight. Also the hem of the work shirts are cut high, so when you size down you might have the risk of that being too high even though the actual length is long.
 

shishy

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With the EG workshirts I had to go TTS for some of the older ones, but the new ones in the same fabric / style I had to size down because of the length and especially shoulders. Overall though I probably woulda been fine TTS since I don't care too much about a baggy fit ;)
 

Peter1

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You can size down if you want a slimmer fit but like you said, the intended look is for a more relaxed fit. All of EG should work TTS (imo), although some people like to also size down on some of the pants/bottoms.

Agree on TTS for the last 6-7 seasons, although a decade ago I had to size up on both pants and tops, from M to L and 32 to 34...
 

badeggcat

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Pre-Covid, Nepenthes Tokyo does not carry EG. It’s a tiny store compared to Nepenthes NY. The standalone Engineered Garments store is where you should go.
 

Samir

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After a long search for the FW14 Ghurka pants in brown Homespun, finally found a pair in my size from a Japanese store on eBay. My order was just canceled as "Japan Post has stopped accepting packages overseas due to COVID-19." I can't find anything to verify this but what a bummer!
 

badeggcat

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After a long search for the FW14 Ghurka pants in brown Homespun, finally found a pair in my size from a Japanese store on eBay. My order was just canceled as "Japan Post has stopped accepting packages overseas due to COVID-19." I can't find anything to verify this but what a bummer!

That’s BS for sure. I was able to send something via Japan Post EMS to NYC last month. Had to fill up all the forms electronically and get it printed at the post office though.
 

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