Engineered Garments FW 15

[timpoblete]

Talked with Angelo back in 2008 about the Field Parka that was 85% Wool / 15% Nylon:

Angelo:
The material for the Field Parka is 85%wool 15%nylon and the nylon is put in for strength. Also the weave is not really tight but that is the beauty of it. If you want it to maintain it the way it is, I would just recommend to be careful with it but I wouldn’t. The beauty of all garments is to live in it, to let it be part of your life. If something is held to be precious you will it always be conscious of it and for me, nothing is really worth that. Please do not quote me on this, I am going to sound like a fool but I am just being honest in all reality.

By the way, I've still got that FW08 field parka in use (pic below). It's a loose weave, so I was originally concerned with it pilling, but it's has held up for 7 years.

 

[Scoobersti]

I have the same field parka as timpoblete and I really like the fabric on it and like his mine has held up very well. I don't wear it as often as I used to but I still wear it few times a year.

 

[LA Guy]

Talked with Angelo back in 2008 about the Field Parka that was 85% Wool / 15% Nylon:

Angelo:
The material for the Field Parka is 85%wool 15%nylon and the nylon is put in for strength. Also the weave is not really tight but that is the beauty of it. If you want it to maintain it the way it is, I would just recommend to be careful with it but I wouldn’t. The beauty of all garments is to live in it, to let it be part of your life. If something is held to be precious you will it always be conscious of it and for me, nothing is really worth that. Please do not quote me on this, I am going to sound like a fool but I am just being honest in all reality.

By the way, I've still got that FW08 field parka in use (pic below). It's a loose weave, so I was originally concerned with it pilling, but it's has held up for 7 years.

This. Happened to a few of my garment as well. One jacket, precisely because the weave is fairly loose, developed a hole. I tried to fix it with fabric glue, which was... a poor idea, but I may patch it with some other, tonal cloth, soon. It's ironic that we celebrate all of these patchwork fabrics, but so many are unable to embrace the ethos that gave rise to these garments at the same time. Re. perfect clothes that last forever:

1) Such things do not exist.
2) If you want the closest thng to it, get real technical gear. I have a pair of poly hiking pants that have been worn, hard, as hiking pants, then as lounge pants, for over a decade. The seams have broken and the material has ripped only where there was a long of stress, and they were easily home repaired. The weave is extremely tight, abrasion resistance, tear resistance, and the material itself is very lightweight, about 200-250 gsm. If you want stuff that looks rather cool and modern, outfits like Outlier and Mission workshop, and Nanamica, make such things. People are the technical millls work very hard to make excellent technical fabrics. If you really care about made in New York, go with Outlier. I think that Missions Workshop has things cut and sewn in San Francisco, and Nanamica things are typically made in Japan.

If you like the ethos of Engineered Garments, embrace the ethos. Wear it. When it gets worn out, patch it. At some point, it will be both awesome and unwearable, and be definitely "your" garment. Is it going to have resale value? No. Well, maybe in 50 years when it could be picked up by a designer for their inspiration board. Certainly, it will be more interesting than most second hand clothing, unless it's a rare piece from an iconic designer, in mint condition, like a vintage YSL gown. That's unlikely to be anything you (or I) have.

 

[Beedub]

Has anyone seen the grey brushed cotton herringbone fatigue pants from FW just gone or the previous FW, in a size 34", available for sale anywhere? Or does anyone have a pair they aren't getting on with or would be willing to trade for a pair with a 36" waist? I've lost some weight and my 36s are too big now and I'm desperate to replace them, they're pretty much my favourite pair of trousers.

 

[Cole87]

Has anyone seen the grey brushed cotton herringbone fatigue pants from FW just gone or the previous FW, in a size 34", available for sale anywhere? Or does anyone have a pair they aren't getting on with or would be willing to trade for a pair with a 36" waist? I've lost some weight and my 36s are too big now and I'm desperate to replace them, they're pretty much my favourite pair of trousers.

You can try calling BlackBlue and seeing if they have them in that size available. It automatically goes to size 32 on the site, though, so that's probably indicative of that size only being left. Might be worth it if you plan to lose even more weight Not judging either. I wear 36.

http://www.blkblu.com/products/eg-fatigue-pant-5

 

[Beedub]

Thanks, already tried them, they only have the 32" left.

 

[Drinkwaters]



This.  Happened to a few of my garment as well.   One jacket, precisely because the weave is fairly loose, developed a hole.  I tried to fix it with fabric glue, which was... a poor idea, but I may patch it with some other, tonal cloth, soon.  It's ironic that we celebrate all of these patchwork fabrics, but so many are unable to embrace the ethos that gave rise to these garments at the same time.  Re. perfect clothes that last forever:

Patching worn clothing has been a thing for awhile. Worn well for three years of college circa 1971.

1) Such things do not exist.
2) If you want the closest thng to it, get real technical gear.  I have a pair of poly hiking pants that have been worn, hard, as hiking pants, then as lounge pants, for over a decade.  The seams have broken and the material has ripped only where there was a long of stress, and they were easily home repaired.  The weave is extremely tight, abrasion resistance, tear resistance, and the material itself is very lightweight, about 200-250 gsm.  If you want stuff that looks rather cool and modern, outfits like Outlier and Mission workshop, and Nanamica, make such things.  People are the technical millls work very hard to make excellent technical fabrics.  If you really care about made in New York, go with Outlier.  I think that Missions Workshop has things cut and sewn in San Francisco, and Nanamica things are typically made in Japan.

Great article here explaining the use of mixed materials and their merit.

https://www.styleseek.com/articles/outerwear/hardshells/60-40-cloth-explained

If you like the ethos of Engineered Garments, embrace the ethos.  Wear it.  When it gets worn out, patch it.  At some point, it will be both awesome and unwearable, and be definitely "your" garment.  Is it going to have resale value?  No.  Well,  maybe in 50 years when it could be picked up by a designer for their inspiration board.  Certainly, it will be more interesting than most second hand clothing, unless it's a rare piece from an iconic designer, in mint condition, like a vintage YSL gown.  That's unlikely to be anything you (or I) have.

We do closet clean outs and consultations for our customers, most on in age. In the process we discover those old friends that we would never give up to charity or the waste basket. They tell us stories and remind us of times gone by and sometimes we sport them for old times sake, that is, if we can still zip them up.

 

[LA Guy]



We do closet clean outs and consultations for our customers, most on in age. In the process we discover those old friends that we would never give up to charity or the waste basket. They tell us stories and remind us of times gone by and sometimes we sport them for old times sake, that is, if we can still zip them up.

I don't like to sell or give away old clothes. Seems too much a part of your history to let go.

 

[blue peter]

this thread is starting to wrap up, but before it's forgotten about entirely I wanted to see if you all knew much about the set of pins (yellow rose, new york type face, "evil eye?" and "stained glass?") EG put out with this season...I just picked the four-pin set up from Federal and I wonder about the significance, if any, of these particular objects...I think i get the iconic new york type face pin, the yellow rose seems...obvious? but what about the "evil eye" and the "stained-glass-looking-thing?!" Anyone know if EG is referencing anything in particular?

Cheers!

 

[happyvillian]

this thread is starting to wrap up, but before it's forgotten about entirely I wanted to see if you all knew much about the set of pins (yellow rose, new york type face, "evil eye?" and "stained glass?") EG put out with this season...I just picked the four-pin set up from Federal and I wonder about the significance, if any, of these particular objects...I think i get the iconic new york type face pin, the yellow rose seems...obvious? but what about the "evil eye" and the "stained-glass-looking-thing?!" Anyone know if EG is referencing anything in particular?

Cheers!

Would love to know the significance as well! The eye reminds me of the "eye of ra" symbol seen in middle eastern culture. Would make sense with the long collarless shirts worn in that culture.

On another topic, just picked up the black worsted wool cinch pants from fw15. Now i'm feeling like I need to get a matching worsted wool blazer of some sort. Any suggestions on where to find one?

 

[blue peter]

Here is what Daiki said about his inspiration for the pins:

"So for the eye, I always thought eyes are cool but when you mentioned 80's and lots of navy and black I thought the Egyptian one was really good for that. For the rose, I always think a flower is elegant/nice for the lapel of a suit jacket and would be nice for anything else casual like parka/etc and when it becomes an easy to understand pin its manageable. For the double diamond, I always think old lady brooches are cool and when it's real (gold/diamonds/etc) fine jewelry on a trucker jacket or something casual it's very cool so when I was looking for a diamond or something and I saw the double, I thought it was funnier/cooler. New York one is as you know, all the great NY publications. "

 

[happyvillian]

Here is what Daiki said about his inspiration for the pins:

"So for the eye, I always thought eyes are cool but when you mentioned 80's and lots of navy and black I thought the Egyptian one was really good for that. For the rose, I always think a flower is elegant/nice for the lapel of a suit jacket and would be nice for anything else casual like parka/etc and when it becomes an easy to understand pin its manageable. For the double diamond, I always think old lady brooches are cool and when it's real (gold/diamonds/etc) fine jewelry on a trucker jacket or something casual it's very cool so when I was looking for a diamond or something and I saw the double, I thought it was funnier/cooler. New York one is as you know, all the great NY publications. "

Nice, I want some pins now.

 

[blue peter]

Nice, I want some pins now.

Federal DC has some left at 50% off

 

[Drinkwaters]

We are now 40% > 50% off FW 15 and previous FW seasons.

 

[HAL 9000]



We are now 40% > 50% off FW 15 and previous FW seasons.

What do you have left in smalls?