Paul Sargent (formerly Alfred Sargent) Appreciation Thread

[ABM]

The mahogany is the Cambridge on 87F, the tan one is the Harrold on 7wk. For me the 87 holds my heels better. 87F is way sleeker as well. Instepwise it's hard to tell but I'd reckon the boots to be a reasonable choice in your case. Let me know if you need any more help.

Thank you so much for taking the time with such a detailed reply, that's very helpful. I assume you go TTS in both?

 

[ABM]

The main difference will be in the sole.

Absolutely correct. Apologies for the quality of my shoe sole photo, but I notice the beveled waist for one isn't quite as narrow as the Armfield on the PS website. Leather may be different too. This said, the Charles II still offers a level of detail, including a beveled, closed channel sole that belies the price and I don't see many better options in terms of value, particularly given the discounts often available at Herring.

 

[brotherender]

@ABM tts indeed.

 

[brotherender]

I'm in awe how well executed these are. MTO Alex jodhpur boots on 724 last, with tasteful burnishing. Fiddle sole, metal toe tips. Just so so versatile. The service Paul Sargent is able to deliver is everything I hoped for and more.

 

[Schweino]

I'm in awe how well executed these are. MTO Alex jodhpur boots on 724 last, with tasteful burnishing. Fiddle sole, metal toe tips. Just so so versatile. The service Paul Sargent is able to deliver is everything I hoped for and more.
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What a lovely shade they are, are they green?

 

[brotherender]

Olive green.

 

[cerneabbas]

These are Shipton & Heaneage Oakley...does anybody know if they were made by Alfred Sargent ?

 

[scurvyfreedman]

These are Shipton & Heaneage Oakley...does anybody know if they were made by Alfred Sargent ?

The easiest way to tell is either by the stamp on the inside (frequently hand written on AS/PS in an oval) - which lists the last, and the nail pattern on the heel.

 

[cerneabbas]

The easiest way to tell is either by the stamp on the inside (frequently hand written on AS/PS in an oval) - which lists the last, and the nail pattern on the heel.

Thanks,i have the AS Stepney and that is written in the oval,these Shipton&Heneage have this but its the same last which makes me think it's AS,toe cap medallion is very different though.

 

[scurvyfreedman]

Thanks,i have the AS Stepney and that is written in the oval,these Shipton&Heneage have this but its the same last which makes me think it's AS,toe cap medallion is very different though.

I have two pairs of AS boots in 87, the Hannover and a pair of Chukkas from Brooks Brothers under Peal and Co. It was one of the most common lasts for their Country Collection.

 

[cerneabbas]

I have two pairs of AS boots in 87, the Hannover and a pair of Chukkas from Brooks Brothers under Peal and Co. It was one of the most common lasts for their Country Collection.

Yes these are going to be AS made for Shipton & Heneage...
The Hannover are nice looking boots.

 

[cerneabbas]

Where it says C 87F is the width C or F ?

 

[ABM]

Where it says C 87F is the width C or F ?

Those do indeed look like they're made by AS. I have pairs with both the handwritten details in the oval cut-out and printed, like on yours.

That's an 87F last, the width being F, standard.

 

[cerneabbas]

Those do indeed look like they're made by AS. I have pairs with both the handwritten details in the oval cut-out and printed, like on yours.

That's an 87F last, the width being F, standard.

Thanks for that....

 

[mdjd]

Hi everyone, I just received my first pair of Paul Sargent shoes, so here’s a little review.

First, the goods: Paul Sargent Cherry Moore, on the narrower SK1 last, size 9UK. I would call it a 9.5C US.

They were very responsive and helpful to my questions about size, makeup, etc. The Moore in Cherry isn’t a standard RTW offering, but he gave me a break on the MTO charge since it’s a classic, I guess. Not counting the Christmas holiday, these arrived about 8 weeks after ordering them.

Fit: The Moore is traditionally on the 724 F (standard width) last, on the sharp end of the classic English soft square lasts. They don’t offer narrow on their lasts, but the SK1 is a narrow E last. I’d say the 9E SK1 fits like a 9.5C US. It’s a bit short, has a narrow toebox, standard/lowish instep, nice arch support, normal heel.

Compared to: Allen Edmonds 65 (Strand, etc) in 9.5D: SK1 is similar, but a bit snugger in the toe box.

TLB Picasso last in 9E (narrow): the 9E SK1 is ½ size smaller, with a less fitted heel.

Crockett & Jones 348 8.5: SK1 a bit shorter, snugger in the toe box, similar heel.

Style: Very similar to the 724. Compared to the old, Alfred Sargent Moore, the 724 and SK1 are more aggressively (Italian?) styled. You can see in the photos that the toe is more chiseled and lower – I prefer the softer, higher toe and bump that the old Moore had. The outside edge of the front half has a sharper, more right-angle line. Otherwise, they’re identical. I like the waist – it’s a soft, rounded bevel. Perfect closed channel sole.

Finishing: 9/10. Similar to TLB Artista, not quite Crockett & Jones level. Great leather, very even stitching, although not 100% straight across one of the toe caps. The only real flaw is that the dye is unevenly applied around the pinking – some of the borders have black dye, some have the lighter brown underlayer showing through.

Color: =( Extremely disappointing. These are not Cherry. Looking at different color palettes online, I would say this is closer to Brick than Cherry. In comparison to the old Alfred Sargent Cherry (which I’m selling because they’re too small), you can see the Paul Sargent Cherry is much duller brown. It has none of the subtle, deep, rich luster. More, the patina is uneven and splotchy, with lighter and darker spots everywhere. Nor is there any burnishing, or any kind of mirror shine.
Compare the old to the new:

Same pants, similar lighting, huge difference in effect:
old Alfred Sargent

New Paul Sargent:

It's a shame, the difference.

Overall, I’d say the design is great and the QC is fine, overall very nice shoes, but these aren’t the iconic Cherry Moores of the past, since they aren’t cherry colored. I don’t get the same pleasure and feeling looking at these.