Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[worthlessturtle]

Thank you, sprout2. The photo of the coat actually is from the first fitting and the pitch of the sleeve wasn't perfect, as you can see the bulging of cloth on the front of my arm. But this was corrected for the second fitting.

 

[Newcomer]

Who is the tailor? Looks good so far!

 

[worthlessturtle]

Rodolfo Cisternino.

 

[lordsuperb]

you just gave up a mbt

 

[Newcomer]

Tricked ya! And weakmonday got something from him. Would like to hear more about your experience - because it sounds like you ordered something on vacation.

 

[worthlessturtle]

I've seen weakmonday reference Cisternino as well, not it isn't top secret anymore.

I went to Florence early November to choose the cloth and get me measured up, the first fitting was last thursday and another fitting on friday. As the fittings went well, Cisternino will now ship the suit. But if there would have been major problems with the fit, I would have returned to Florence for another fitting.

 

[aph999]



Thanks for all who commented on my bespoke possibilities while traveling to Florence this coming May. I've decided to skip the plans at this time and just have some shirts made by Simone Abbarchi (he does bespoke in addition to MTM). This way I will have more time to spend with the wife and I can travel to a NY based tailor some time when I'm not supposed to be celebrating my 5th anniversary.

Sorry I missed this topic first time around, but for those of you considering Florence for bespoke, you've got a couple Cisternino tailors as options - Rodolfo (see posts above, looks like great work) and Piero. For more on my experience with Piero you can check out my posts on 6 and 13 September '16. I'll return to him again next time I'm in Florence. I had to break up my first commission in two trips (after the first measurement) because I had only 4 days for each visit, but Piero works long hours to get the work done. I'm very happy with the two suits I had made.

 

[SartoriaMac]



I'm getting a bespoke suit made.  How hard is it for a tailor to place a high arm hole?  And how high is too high?  

I agree with dfoverdx. Every tailor has their own style and more often than not asking them to do something other than they usually do can have poor results solely based on the fact that they aren't used to doing it that way. This is why many people try several tailors before they find the right match for them.
It's probably too late, but when I cut and fit a suit for a client I try to have the armhole finish just under the armpit so that the client can let his arms down without the fabric curling into the armpit... Basically as high as I can get it without making it tight.

 

[jujujoo11]

I agree with dfoverdx. Every tailor has their own style and more often than not asking them to do something other than they usually do can have poor results solely based on the fact that they aren't used to doing it that way. This is why many people try several tailors before they find the right match for them.
It's probably too late, but when I cut and fit a suit for a client I try to have the armhole finish just under the armpit so that the client can let his arms down without the fabric curling into the armpit... Basically as high as I can get it without making it tight.

The tailor already made the jacket and was finished. But I found the armhole to be too low. I didn't know it was going to be a problem after it was made. Do bespoke tailors re craft the jacket if the specs are off? Or do I pay more for the fix? I haven't taken the jacket yet. Thank you.

 

[SartoriaMac]

The tailor already made the jacket and was finished. But I found the armhole to be too low. I didn't know it was going to be a problem after it was made. Do bespoke tailors re craft the jacket if the specs are off? Or do I pay more for the fix? I haven't taken the jacket yet. Thank you.

It would be pretty much impossible to fix an armhole that is too low unless it was too low by about 1cm... He would have to take away from the shoulder which would ultimately ruin the rest of the suit. Sorry.

 

[Xancatrius]

Not sure if a bit off topic here but I was getting a polo coat commissioned and a tailor told me he wasn't comfortable with making one as he didn't have much confidence in doing up the collar

- from a purely technical POV, how different is a polo coat's collar vs a normal jacket's collar?

 

[grahamBrowne]

The top collar on a polo coat is usually a two piece collar they are relatively simple but some people might struggle with getting the size right and cotton is a cloth that doesn't have much give.
Not that difficult but if people haven't made one before they don't like to take on things for fear of them not looking good enough.
Where are you based?

 

[dfoverdx]

The tailor already made the jacket and was finished. But I found the armhole to be too low. I didn't know it was going to be a problem after it was made. Do bespoke tailors re craft the jacket if the specs are off? Or do I pay more for the fix? I haven't taken the jacket yet. Thank you.

I am not tailor so i don't know if it's possible or not. If you have a good relation with your tailor and pretty happy with this work then talk to him and explain the situation. However if you are not really happy with overall work then forget it and try another tailor.
By the way did you make fittings without sleeves ? It's easy to see the armhole (inside and outside) area during fittings without sleeves.

 

[grahamBrowne]

Go to your tailor and talk about any questions and worries you have they are there to help

 

[Leaves]

Silk/linen blend "Summer Tweed" by Die Work Wear - second fitting from Sartoria Corcos. Unfortunately, the studios of tailors does not really provide a good setting for color correct photography, but I tried to compensate in Photoshop to provide a decent representation of the cloth.

Looking forward to more cloth runs Derek!