Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[brax]

Well, in napoli it’s farmed out anyways. But also, when you use a separate trousermaker, they actually see you & your body.

I have 3 pairs of trousers from one of the largest houses in napoli that I cannot sit down in / wear. Tailors are hit or miss on trousers - their strength is the jacket, their focus is a jacket. Why have them do something they’re not as interested in doing?

That may be generally true but hardly universal. For example, my Napoli sartoria has one dedicated trouser-maker. He works only for the Sartoria and he only makes trousers.

 

[jonathanS]

The Duke of Windsor had Scholte cut his coats and had another tailor for his trousers. Scholte’s strength was in the drape cut of coatmaking. Whether or not the trousers were ordered from Scholte was immaterial, as they would have been farmed out anyways.

wouldn’t give tailor A tailor B’s trousers or jacket to copy. But that’s just me.

That may be generally true but hardly universal. For example, my Napoli sartoria has one dedicated trouser-maker. He works only for the Sartoria and he only makes trousers.

have you met this fella? I have big quads, and legs in general. The story I mentioned above about a large house in Naples - they have a dedicated trousermaker who, by all accounts is good, but they’re only as good as the input. If the fitter isn’t the trousermaker, it doesnt matter how good the trousermaker is.

 

[brax]

wouldn’t give tailor A tailor B’s trousers or jacket to copy. But that’s just me.



have you met this fella? I have big quads, and legs in general. The story I mentioned above about a large house in Naples - they have a dedicated trousermaker who, by all accounts is good, but they’re only as good as the input. If the fitter isn’t the trousermaker, it doesnt matter how good the trousermaker is.

Sure. Junk in; junk out. But are you saying that the only way to assure a good product is by having one man be the fitter-cutter-maker? Few houses in England or Italy work that way.

In my case, my American tailor was my fitter and cutter but not my maker although he had dedicated tailors who made/helped with all garments. And my Italian tailor shop is even more intimate. The four people who work in the shop fit-cut-make everything. They don’t even farm out buttonholes. I don’t see any benefit in going to a sartoria to have jackets made and then somewhere else for the trousers unless you don’t like the trousers that your jacket maker produces.

 

[lordsuperb]

I wouldn’t brag about this, personally. I wouldn’t give another tailor a jacket to copy either.

It’s not a brag, I see no point in using multiple commissions for a tailor to figure things out. If I want things a certain length or fit I show them something that’s already achieved it.

 

[kolecho]

It’s not a brag, I see no point in using multiple commissions for a tailor to figure things out. If I want things a certain length or fit I show them something that’s already achieved it.

Nothing wrong with being pragmatic.

 

[Despos]

It’s not a brag, I see no point in using multiple commissions for a tailor to figure things out. If I want things a certain length or fit I show them something that’s already achieved it.

Ask new clients to wear or bring a tailored trouser and a jacket they have. I need to see what they have been wearing. How it looks and fits them. Then we go over what they like, don’t like or would change about the garment. I need to see it on them because it’s more accurate than verbal communication.
WILL NOT measure a client wearing jeans.

 

[DavidLane]

Did a thing:
https://www.gq.com/story/big-and-tall-tailoring-advice

-DL

 

[hpreston]

I gave Formosa my trousers from Steed and told them to copy. Problem solved!!!

Doesn’t Formosa outsource their trousers?

 

[lordsuperb]

Doesn’t Formosa outsource their trousers?

Yes, but Formosa is doing the measuring and fitting. It's no different from Saville Row tailors outsourcing to jacket and trouser makers.

 

[lordsuperb]

Did a thing:
https://www.gq.com/story/big-and-tall-tailoring-advice
View attachment 1967903
-DL

"When buying a new suit, you'll often be advised to stick to standard navy or gray. But investing in pieces that are fun to wear and feel great on is ultimately smarter than trying to build out some sort of perfect capsule wardrobe. For Lane, that meant going bold with his first purchase."


MEOW, I got grief all these years on the forum for going outside the box and not conforming to Doofus Workwear's opinions. I love wearing my purple and picnic blanket jackets.

 

[Texasmade]

MEOW, I got grief all these years on the forum for going outside the box and not conforming to Doofus Workwear's opinions. I love wearing my purple and picnic blanket jackets.

Just like me going with green dress shoes!

 

[lordsuperb]

Just like me going with green dress shoes!

Pics?

 

[Texasmade]

This is one of them. I have 2 more pairs of Corthay in green that I don’t have a picture of and one pair of G&G. Only one I have on my phone. All my greens are RtW right now.

One pair of bespoke Nicholas Templeman green suede gatorskin loafers being made at the moment. Hopefully will be finished in the next few months.

 

[sugarbutch]

Did a thing:
https://www.gq.com/story/big-and-tall-tailoring-advice
View attachment 1967903
-DL

Fitting recognition for one of the most stylish members of the forvm!

 

[ericgereghty]

My local tailor once told me jacket maker gets the glory while pants/shirt makers get the gold.

But who gets to fuckk* the prom queen?

*Your censoring is no match for my "genius," SF!