Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[ValidusLA]

Hello sir. I’ve been busy the last several weeks traveling and haven’t been checking in here as much lately. I saw your recent post however.

Yes, I’m a client of D&S and very much like their work. If you search my posts under this thread I have shared some of my garments. I’m not certain what information exactly you are looking for but by all means feel free to let me know, here or privately, what questions you may have and I’ll do my best to help. Thanks.

Thanks for taking the time to respond, I was going to DM, but I'm not asking anything all that secret and maybe someone else will benefit.

I'm going to have the opportunity to have dinner w/ the D+S team upcoming; I currently have a couple tailors I use, but am wondering if I should look into trying to do something w/ them and wanted some forward guidance.

1) What attracted you to D+S? House style? Something else?
2) When you've been doing your commissions, how much guidance have they been giving you. That pink jacket is cool, and I assume that was something you sought out, but in terms of other styling choices - are they sorta doing their thing most of the time?
3) I see you're doing trunk shows. Whats the timing and process been like? How many fittings? Are you going to London at all?

Thanks!

 

[utsav53]

Took little over a year and 4 fittings but my Michael Browne "Stealtcoat" is here. Very impressed with the final product. Better quality photos will follow when I wear it in fall

P.S. Boots are by Yohei Fukuda.

 

[Markus W]

Today a sample of the Kirkton arrived. This will be my bespoke project for a winter jacket.

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Ready for a first fitting. The sleeves are of course just temporary.

 

[BomTrady]

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Ready for a first fitting. The sleeves are of course just temporary.

I can tell it's going to be a beautiful jacket, for sure. I do have a question...why go through the trouble of basting in temp sleeves that won't be used at all instead of basting in the one sleeve out of the actual material that will be used, which is what is generally done for the first fitting? Are the sleeves we see a lining or will they be completely replaced with the suiting material for a subsequent? 'Just curious, thanks.

 

[juggzz]

CATD NY - first meeting
My appointment was set up through Steve, but to my surprise I was greeted by one of the founders of CATD Ian Meiers. He told me a little about the background for why he and the others started CATD and his background in banking and passion for tailoring. Very pleasant.There is an interesting mix of “classic English” and “disruptive innovation” at CATD.

We spoke a bit about my desire to rebuild a classic mens wardrobe and decided to start with a medium dark single breasted 2-button classic business suit. I wanted something a shade lighter than charcoal but not too light grey either.

We looked at 3-4 cloth books and quickly settled on one of the Amadeus fabrics from Dormeuil. It is a slight upcharge from their standard pricing, but I really liked the cloth, the color and the feel.

Then we moved to the “online configurator”. Ian showed me the laptop and guided me through all the various choices we could change or tweak. At this point we decided to go with the house style for everything and just confirmed that I was ok with those selections. SB, 2 buttons, straight pockets, no ticket pocket, very lightly padded shoulder with minimal roping, double vents, etc, etc. you get the picture.
I ordered 2 sets of trousers - no belt loops, side adjusters, no turn ups, no back pockets, standard side pockets. The only difference between the two pairs is: one with flat fronts and one with a single outward pleat.

I think the online configurator and the structured process is a great tool for someone who isn’t 100% sure what they want or clear on the differences, the various choices, the terminology, etc. I would have no concerns or hesitations in sending someone to CATD who had no bespoke commission experience. You will be guided through the process and they will make sure you’re comfortable and feel relaxed.

Ian then took measurements and used a fitment jacket as a baseline.We used that to both confirm fit/measurements/adjustments and also to discuss the overall style, length, the skirt flare, the silhouette, etc. I have to say that the fit garment was actually pretty close to what I had on my mind. Sure, my shoulders a very square and we need to change that, and the armhole needs to be cut higher, etc - but the silhouette was very good and both the coat length and waist was almost spot on. The standard silhouette is very attractive to my eye with a longer coat and a very distinct waist.

The measurements are now transferred to CATD in London and the pattern will be made there. The cutter is also in the London facility, so nothing really happens in NY. I don’t know who the cutter is and will most likely not interact with him or her.

Next steps is a toile fitting in NY (is that the same as a basting fitting?) about 4 weeks from now. I would rather not discuss detailed pricing here (you can DM me) but found the pricing very reasonable and on the lower end of what I would expect from a Savile Row tailor.

Would love an update on how the suit turned out with Cad and the Dandy and the overall experience.

 

[classicalthunde]

I can tell it's going to be a beautiful jacket, for sure. I do have a question...why go through the trouble of basting in temp sleeves that won't be used at all instead of basting in the one sleeve out of the actual material that will be used, which is what is generally done for the first fitting? Are the sleeves we see a lining or will they be completely replaced with the suiting material for a subsequent? 'Just curious, thanks.

total guess, but maybe they want to wait to cut the sleeves after they figure out any pitch issues that way they can ensure a match up of the prominent pattern

 

[Crispyj]

Zizolfi fitting. Olive tan jacket will be a suit, pants from PML. Lapels came out a bit slim here, they will make them wider when finished. Idk how they can do that besides ironing the chest more open, but 🤷‍♂️

 

[reidd]

Zizolfi fitting. Olive tan jacket will be a suit, pants from PML. Lapels came out a bit slim here, they will make them wider when finished. Idk how they can do that besides ironing the chest more open, but 🤷‍♂️

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What cloths did you go for on these? Is the DB a blazer or part of a suit as well?

 

[Crispyj]

What cloths did you go for on these? Is the DB a blazer or part of a suit as well?

DB is Standevem Oxbridge flannel. Just a jacket, maybe I'll make a suit too haha.

Olive tan jacket is Harrisons Spring Ram, but not the ones in the official bunch. I think this was a test batch.

 

[lordsuperb]

Zizolfi fitting. Olive tan jacket will be a suit, pants from PML. Lapels came out a bit slim here, they will make them wider when finished. Idk how they can do that besides ironing the chest more open, but 🤷‍♂️

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The lapels look fine on the green jacket, but they can widen them no problem. Formosa has done this for me at this fitting stage.

 

[clothingfun]

Hello and I hope everyone is well. I had a first fitting for my latest sport coat (I shared a photo of the fabric in this thread someplace a couple months ago) and thought I would post a few pics. It was a great appointment, lots of fun! Everyone have a great day.

 

[PSNY]

Both the jacket the tailor and the one you’re wearing are very long, who is the tailor?

 

[S K M]

Looking forward to my first fitting of this one in just a week's time in Naples. An old LL cloth that has been sitting in my closet for quite a while, but now I have finally taken the plunge. Will also have a fitting of the well-known Agnelli-flannel from the LL - together they're my first bespoke commissions in checked fabric!

 

[FlyingHorker]

Not mine, but what a silhouette and cut. I love the slightly fuller trousers; I don't like the peg leg look anymore.



Does anyone know what B&Tailor does with the shoulders and chest? I used to think they used no padding, no shoulder extension, and did a clean and lean chest, but now I'm not so sure.

The video below with the tailor(Jung-Yul Park?) looks like extended shoulders.

 

[jonathanS]

Looking forward to my first fitting of this one in just a week's time in Naples. An old LL cloth that has been sitting in my closet for quite a while, but now I have finally taken the plunge. Will also have a fitting of the well-known Agnelli-flannel from the LL - together they're my first bespoke commissions in checked fabric!

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Is that the raf blue agnelli tweed? Imo, that fabric looks so much better in person