Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Despos]

I'm not a fan of double stitching on smooth worsted fabric, but to each their own.

Spoiler: old codger ruminating how things used to be.

At the time of my NYC apprenticeship in the 70's the paradigm was to do hand stitching on the edges of the jacket so fine you couldn't see them. Barely perceptible. Very refined sewing was valued.

Things evolve over time

Just sayin'

 

[lordsuperb]

Spoiler: old codger ruminating how things used to be.

At the time of my NYC apprenticeship in the 70's the paradigm was to do hand stitching on the edges of the jacket so fine you couldn't see them. Barely perceptible. Very refined sewing was valued.

Things evolve over time

Just sayin'

Any pictures of your stuff from the 70's?

 

[Despos]

Any pictures of your stuff from the 70's?

No pictures.
I regret not keeping suits I made back them. Would like to see them now. Out grew my personal suits and gave them away. Would be interesting to see the styling and how they would have held up.
Especially the first two suits I made for myself. One was the deepest, darkest shade of brown with a silver beaded stripe and alternating pinstripe. The other was a flannel from Wain Shiel in a blue/grey shade. Color like the 520 shade of Minnis fresco. Both were 1BPL. Got the most comments of these two suits, more than any others.
Remember all the details of those two suits like the ties and shoes I wore with them. Frequently stopped and asked about the flannel suit when walking on the street.
One thing we did was press a crease along the side seams from the armhole to the hem. Really defined the shape and line of the suit. Something you don't see anymore. Only machine work was the long side seams, darts and making the pockets.

 

[The Chai]

No pictures.
I regret not keeping suits I made back them. Would like to see them now. Out grew my personal suits and gave them away. Would be interesting to see the styling and how they would have held up.
Especially the first two suits I made for myself. One was the deepest, darkest shade of brown with a silver beaded stripe and alternating pinstripe. The other was a flannel from Wain Shiel in a blue/grey shade. Color like the 520 shade of Minnis fresco. Both were 1BPL. Got the most comments of these two suits, more than any others.
Remember all the details of those two suits like the ties and shoes I wore with them. Frequently stopped and asked about the flannel suit when walking on the street.
One thing we did was press a crease along the side seams from the armhole to the hem. Really defined the shape and line of the suit. Something you don't see anymore. Only machine work was the long side seams, darts and making the pockets.

So you’re a proponent of the sbpl 1b too!

 

[lordsuperb]

No pictures.
I regret not keeping suits I made back them. Would like to see them now. Out grew my personal suits and gave them away. Would be interesting to see the styling and how they would have held up.
Especially the first two suits I made for myself. One was the deepest, darkest shade of brown with a silver beaded stripe and alternating pinstripe. The other was a flannel from Wain Shiel in a blue/grey shade. Color like the 520 shade of Minnis fresco. Both were 1BPL. Got the most comments of these two suits, more than any others.
Remember all the details of those two suits like the ties and shoes I wore with them. Frequently stopped and asked about the flannel suit when walking on the street.
One thing we did was press a crease along the side seams from the armhole to the hem. Really defined the shape and line of the suit. Something you don't see anymore. Only machine work was the long side seams, darts and making the pockets.

I'm having visions of you walking the strip like Saturday Night Fever.

 

[Despos]

So you’re a proponent of the sbpl 1b too!

I like it. Handful of clients get this as default styling

 

[Despos]

I'm having visions of you walking the strip like Saturday Night Fever.

Hah! Was way cooler than that!

 

[hpreston]

Here’s my first MTM through The Armoury from Ring Jacket. Glen plaid in dark grey Fox Air.

Doing up this fabric next....limited ed “chocolate and chestnut” Fox flannel

Here’s how it looks on Douglas from Fox.

 

[dauster]

View attachment 1434430

Here’s my first MTM through The Armoury from Ring Jacket. Glen plaid in dark grey Fox Air.

Doing up this fabric next....limited ed “chocolate and chestnut” Fox flannel

View attachment 1434433
Here’s how it looks on Douglas from Fox.

Do you have any experience with Fox Bro’s own bespoke tailor ? For got his name...

 

[Crispyj]

Do you have any experience with Fox Bro’s own bespoke tailor ? For got his name...

Brian Smith?

 

[hpreston]

Do you have any experience with Fox Bro’s own bespoke tailor ? For got his name...

I do not. Yet.....

I just dipped my toe from off the peg/OTR to MTM recently (as in the last year)

I’ve tried Drakes MTM, Sartoria Carrara at No Man Walks Alone and Ring Jacket via The Armoury

I do very much like the look of things I’ve seen made by the tailor at Fox Brothers.

 

[lordsuperb]

I do not. Yet.....

I just dipped my toe from off the peg/OTR to MTM recently (as in the last year)

I’ve tried Drakes MTM, Sartoria Carrara at No Man Walks Alone and Ring Jacket via The Armoury.

I do very much like the look of things I’ve seen made by the tailor at Fox Brothers.

Which maker do you prefer?

 

[hpreston]

Which maker do you prefer?

Background, I've done one commission each with Carrara and Drakes and two with Ring Jacket. They each have different silhouettes so there’s that.

I’d say value wise, Carrara and RJ tied for my favorite, with Drakes second.

Drakes has a very different (unstructured/casual) style that works for certain items, but at this point I’m gravitating more towards the Carrara/RJ style.

 

[sargeinaz]

Love the RJ suit. Have you posted pics of your drakes or Carrera tailoring? I’d love to see them!

 

[hpreston]

Love the RJ suit. Have you posted pics of your drakes or Carrera tailoring? I’d love to see them!

I have not yet. I’ll try to get some pics of those pieces soon.