Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[Krish the Fish]

Which country is your tailor from? If it's Italy it just may be cultural and will eventually arrive after repeated follow-ups.

As someone inexperienced with bespoke but trying to change that, this seems less than ideal

 

[JohnMRobie]

In progress picture for a new suit. Caccioppoli parthenope bunch 300GSM

 

[reidd]

As someone inexperienced with bespoke but trying to change that, this seems less than ideal

I can only speak from personal experience but I think the negative stories get overblown. I have worked with a number of Italian bespoke craftsmen for years and have only had positive experiences. Obviously not every bespoke project has come out perfect but I have never had a tailor go awol or anything close to that.

 

[Marshak]

As someone inexperienced with bespoke but trying to change that, this seems less than ideal

I've worked with both archetypes of Italian tailors, namely the one you need to chase up (TaxGenius knows him I think) to obtain your garment (not necessarily a crook but a guy who has no management or professional approach) and the one (like Tofani, Pastena) who is super reactive, customer centric and is a delight to work with. So, there's no cultural - neither italian nor neapolitan - determinism, it depends on the tailor. If you don't speak italian, it's of course better to chose a guy speaking well english and this guy is oftenly part of the young generation (working closely with his dad since tailoring is almost always a family affair).

 

[dieworkwear]

As someone inexperienced with bespoke but trying to change that, this seems less than ideal

I think it comes with the territory when working with small houses.

If you work with a big firm such as Anderson & Sheppard, they're pulling dozens of orders when they visit a city. Some big fish might even order a dozen coats for just his order. The chances of them returning are very, very high.

If you work with a small firm, that person *might* be pulling a dozen orders, but they also might be pulling in a half dozen. If one client drops out from that city, trips can suddenly turn from profitable to nonprofitable. Trips require plane tickets, hotels, time, and other types of expenses. So if you're right on the margin, you might not come back. You may also be short-staffed at home, so emails go unanswered.

The reason why Italian firms get stuck with this reputation is because almost all of them are small firms. The British firms that visit are giant companies, so they're more responsive and reliable. Although, many of them are also not producing good clothes these days.

I can only speak from personal experience but I think the negative stories get overblown. I have worked with a number of Italian bespoke craftsmen for years and have only had positive experiences. Obviously not every bespoke project has come out perfect but I have never had a tailor go awol or anything close to that.

IMO negative stories go underreported.

 

[yanagi]

As someone inexperienced with bespoke but trying to change that, this seems less than ideal

There is always the systematic risk that the tailor simply closes shop. In this case, it doesn't matter if you go with a traveling or local tailor.

But if you're concerned about minimizing the "they don't come back" risk, go with a (relatively) local tailor if the option is available to you.

 

[Texasmade]

There is always the systematic risk that the tailor simply closes shop. In this case, it doesn't matter if you go with a traveling or local tailor.

But if you're concerned about minimizing the "they don't come back" risk, go with a (relatively) local tailor if the option is available to you.

Or go with a big name tailor backed by a hedge fund or Chinese conglomerate.

 

[bdavro23]

Or go with a big name tailor backed by a hedge fund or Chinese conglomerate.

I see what you do...

 

[othertravel]

I think it comes with the territory when working with small houses.

If you work with a big firm such as Anderson & Sheppard, they're pulling dozens of orders when they visit a city. Some big fish might even order a dozen coats for just his order. The chances of them returning are very, very high.

If you work with a small firm, that person *might* be pulling a dozen orders, but they also might be pulling in a half dozen. If one client drops out from that city, trips can suddenly turn from profitable to nonprofitable. Trips require plane tickets, hotels, time, and other types of expenses. So if you're right on the margin, you might not come back. You may also be short-staffed at home, so emails go unanswered.

The reason why Italian firms get stuck with this reputation is because almost all of them are small firms. The British firms that visit are giant companies, so they're more responsive and reliable. Although, many of them are also not producing good clothes these days.



IMO negative stories go underreported.

Have you seen what Huntsman is offering for bespoke? They now offer Teleporting Bespoke:

Teleporting Bespoke Services - Huntsman (huntsmansavilerow.com)

 

[dieworkwear]

Have you seen what Huntsman is offering for bespoke? They now offer Teleporting Bespoke:

Teleporting Bespoke Services - Huntsman (huntsmansavilerow.com)

Yes, they started offering that last year.

Have been surprised to see how quickly tailors change their pitches. Ten years ago, A&S used to have a line on their website about how they differ from ready to wear, which they considered to be substandard. When they introduced their RTW range, that line was quietly taken off the website. Similarly, I've heard many tailors say that you simply can't do custom tailoring remotely without the cutter present at fittings (this was always the jab against MTM). Then with the pandemic, many said it's now OK. Granted, these are all necessary adjustments in a changing world, but it has been amazing to see.

 

[9thsymph]

Where are you in the process? Have you had a few fittings, and are awaiting the final garment? Basically, are you certain you and the tailor are on the same page with the phase of the garment - no further fittings required?

Multiple fittings all completed between December-March, but I’ve been waiting for buttonholes to be finished for 7 months now, it seems (or so I’ve been told...). Oh well, I’m just not a fan of having to continually bump the process along anymore...really lame...

 

[reidd]

Multiple fittings all completed between December-March, but I’ve been waiting for buttonholes to be finished for 7 months now, it seems (or so I’ve been told...). Oh well, I’m just not a fan of having to continually bump the process along anymore...really lame...

Ouch. Yeah that’s bad.

 

[Flake]

There is always the systematic risk that the tailor simply closes shop. In this case, it doesn't matter if you go with a traveling or local tailor.

But if you're concerned about minimizing the "they don't come back" risk, go with a (relatively) local tailor if the option is available to you.

Sadly, I can relate.

 

[Amidé]

A few more pictures of my recent first fitting for this new Shetland tweed jacket I’m having done by ANTON - Kleermaker in Enschede. Made from Abraham Moon tweed, and sporting an Amidé Hadelin custom silk lining.

 

[TheloniusDrunk]

Well since there's no imminent/incipient bespoke project thread I'll post here. I've had my mind on getting a coat based off this one from an old blog post by David Taub for years. I recently got a new job and I'm at a place where this is feasible, so I want to get the process going.

I'm somewhat itinerant at the moment, which could be good or bad for the prospects of a bespoke project. I'm looking for recommendations of a US tailor that would to this well. It'll be most convenient for me in the Chicago, Twin Cities, Seattle, and potentially DC & NYC regions with a slight edge to Chicago. I've heard glowing things about Chris Despos but haven't seen his email for contact after a cursory google search.

Anyone with any particular recommendations?