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It's cordovan aka horse ass.
I think it's from Comipel.
ETA: There's some talk that the cotto is from Horween. http://www.stitchedandstitched.com/?p=1488
I am pretty sure that tricker's does not use Horween shell. That being said i have a pair of Tricker's longwings in the Mogano Brown Cordovan and it is fantastic! In fact it does not crease as much as horween I have from Alden or Ralph Lauren. I think Cordovan is the way to go!
I might be down. What kind of price range can we expect for this?
Soooo... are you guys interested enough for me to contact Richard and get a quote in Cotto? It'll be five of us total for the order.
I recently enquired about an MTO Horween Cordovan boot at Tricker's Jermyn Street. I've heard it from many suppliers and now Tricker's themselves - Tricker's do not make shoes with the Horween product. They have a few Horween hides on offer, but I don't think they're Cordovan. The reason, I was told, was because Horween didn't always provide enough material suitable for boot making, so they stopped ordering it from them as they were unhappy with the supply.
That said, they would agree to make a pair for me in Horween's Color #8 Cordovan provided I supplied the material myself based on it being at least Grade II Cordovan and there was 4 ft of leather. I was going to purchase this from A&A Crack (Horween's UK agent). Due to the price of the custom MTO I wanted + having to pay entirely up front + the price of the Cordovan, I decided not to take the risk - especially if a manufacturer is generally unhappy using the material in the first place.
Instead I invested in a pair of Alden Longwings in Color #8 Cordovan, and I really feel like I made the right choice.
I have a pair of Comipel Tricker's and now a pair of Horween Alden's, and as much as I love my Tricker's and the Comipel leather, I have to concede, the Horween product is infinitely more attractive on the pair I've purchased. (That's not to say all Horween examples are great, I've tried Color #8 Cordovan shoes on that were positively dull compared to my Tricker's and I've seen some Whisky Cordovan that looked as ordinary as calf). It's swing and roundabouts.
Mr indigoshrimp reported he was told by David of the factory shop that the Mogano color is from Horween.
https://indigoshrimp.wordpress.com/2012/01/12/shell-stows/
The only Tricker's cordovan I have experience with is orange which is pretty clearly Comipel. I think I know what you mean about it not creasing as much as Horween though.
It feels thinner and softer than Horween. Not necessarily a bad thing; just different.
Ok this is what we need for Richard:
Model, Hermann.
Last, 4497s. Width Fitting 5. (Do we want a 4444?)
Sizes, TBD
Colour, Cotto Cordovan. - Done
Lining, Black Calf Lining ??? - This sound okay?
Pull Tabs, none - Done
Eyelets, Blind Eyelets. - Done
Welt, Barbour Welt in Natural Finish - Done
Sole, Commando Sole in Black - Done
What is everyone expecting to pay for something like this in cordovan? Judging by other brands I would say $700. That sound about right?
Ok this is what we need for Richard:
Model, Hermann.
Last, 4497s. Width Fitting 5. (Do we want a 4444?)
Sizes, TBD
Colour, Cotto Cordovan. - Done
Lining, Black Calf Lining ??? - This sound okay?
Pull Tabs, none - Done
Eyelets, Blind Eyelets. - Done
Welt, Barbour Welt in Natural Finish - Done
Sole, Commando Sole in Black - Done
What is everyone expecting to pay for something like this in cordovan? Judging by other brands I would say $700. That sound about right?
I'd go for a more interesting lining like like green or red but black is okay.
$700 doesn't sound bad.
The orange cordovan ones I got from the Bureau were 555gbp or 463gbp once you took off VAT. Shipping was another 30gbp.
That translates to $780 or so.
I'd go for a more interesting lining like like green or red but black is okay.
$700 doesn't sound bad.
The orange cordovan ones I got from the Bureau were 555gbp or 463gbp once you took off VAT. Shipping was another 30gbp.
That translates to $780 or so.
And that is not even for an individual or small group MTO. You are going to be hardpressed to find a cordovan boot from a top maker for under $700, much less something MTO;
Richard has been doing his bulk MTOs without the individual MTO premium so the $700-800 range sounds about right.
You can get cordovan Aldens all day for under $700 at least in black or #8.
Ok this is what we need for Richard:
Model, Hermann.
Last, 4497s. Width Fitting 5. (Do we want a 4444?)
Sizes, TBD
Colour, Cotto Cordovan. - Done
Lining, Black Calf Lining ??? - This sound okay?
Pull Tabs, none - Done
Eyelets, Blind Eyelets. - Done
Welt, Barbour Welt in Natural Finish - Done
Sole, Commando Sole in Black - Done
What is everyone expecting to pay for something like this in cordovan? Judging by other brands I would say $700. That sound about right?