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Nick V. interviews Nick Horween, Horween Leather

JensenH

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Nevermind him, Nick. By asking about the founders and Nick Horween himself, you've humanized the story -- which made it more interesting. The questions in your interview were well thought-out and informative. Had you asked highly technical questions, many SF'er might not understand, nor would they care.

Thank you for doing this as a favor to the forum. Also, thank you Nick Horween for taking the time to do the interview. I enjoyed reading it, gentlemen :slayer:
 
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Coachie

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My first pair of Cordovan shoes were Florsheim Wing Tips in 1965, difficult break in period but a wonderful wear for many years!
 

swiego

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I would say that schizophrenic is a good way to describe it. Since no two shells are the same, it shouldn't be surprising that many shoes react differently. Any shoe leather reaction to moisture is determined by the type of hide, the tannage, the finish applied (by the tannery), the construction of the shoe, and how the shoe is finished (by the shoemaker) and then cared for by the owner.
I'm assuming that we're talking about the blisters/bumps that some shells develop when they get wet... It happens to some and not to others, it's just the way it is! The answer is always to brush, and if this doesn't fix it, then rewet them evenly and allow them to dry naturally. Then, brush.


Thank you for the reply, which I missed. It is interesting that you have noticed and confirm this behavior. Do you think the difference is due to the skin itself, or to preparation differences? Do you have any thoughts on how to identify more vs. less-water resistant shell? I think we could benefit from more discussion on the factors which impact shell cordovan water resistance, and I am a bit concerned that we all acknowledge that shell can behave this way yet no one seems to know why.
 

well-kept

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Thank you for the reply, which I missed. It is interesting that you have noticed and confirm this behavior. Do you think the difference is due to the skin itself, or to preparation differences? Do you have any thoughts on how to identify more vs. less-water resistant shell? I think we could benefit from more discussion on the factors which impact shell cordovan water resistance, and I am a bit concerned that we all acknowledge that shell can behave this way yet no one seems to know why.


I agree that it's a mystery. Shell cordovans are relatively expensive and part of the cost is justified, in the mind of the buyer, by the idea that they will prove durable for many years. Not being able to judge performance is a bit like knowing that one BMW 330i will go 200,000 miles without much mechanical trouble while another will break down frequently and rust after a year, and nobody can say why, you just have to buy it and then find out.

I've posted to this effect before, that some of my shells are completely impervious to water, even walking hours in a downpour, while others develop darkened spots, permanently, just from walking a few minutes through damp grass.

On balance, the older the shell, the more it resists the effects of water. That's my experience anyway, and it's hard to imagine that nothing has changed in the tannage. Nick H? Any expert insight into this would be much appreciated.
 

briancl

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Wow, I live down the street from this place. I drive by it every day without even knowing. Funny, that.
 

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