NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF APR 6, 2015

[Murlsquirl]



Guys. Check this out for men's fashion advices. Came across this pretty cool blog, thought i'd like to share.
http://facebook.com/preppylist

Welcome to the forum, Ed. I've never seen a jacket without functional hip pockets, but I'm sure they exist. Can you pinch and pull the wool where the pocket would be to see if you can seperate the layers...then you'll know there is one. If there is, just gently run a seam ripper up there to free the flap and pull out the thread.

 

[Chaconne]

Does the fact that these size 32 pants have a 38 inch unfinished inseam mean that the crotch area can be easily fixed or does that have nothing to do with anything?. If they are hopelessly too big or the alterations will be very expensive I have to return them ASAP. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Murlsquirl]

Those pants need a lot of work, chaconne. I wouldn't attempt to have them altered, but the tailors in the Tailors Feedback Thread can give you an expert opinion.

 

[Chaconne]



Those pants need a lot of work, chaconne. I wouldn't attempt to have them altered, but the tailors in the Tailors Feedback Thread can give you an expert opinion.

Thanks, Murl. It's a shame since they are a beautiful pair of Pantas but I doubt my selection of alteration it's would even know where to begin so back they go...

Thanks a lot for the help.

 

[jdeck01]

Hi SF. I am a brand new member, and am having trouble navigating all the info on the site. I am hoping to find a single place where I can find a checklist of sorts to help me plan new orders with my tailor. This is to help me remember all the important things to go over when designing the garment. A short version might look like this (but I know I am forgetting things. Hence, the request):

Coat:

Arm hole size
vents
material and color for buttons
lapel style and width
length (traditional, more modern, etc.)
etc.

Trousers:

pleats
cuffs
slimness (is that a word)
etc.

I suspect this exists, and appreciate a point in the right direction. If not, perhaps we can create it to help people in their bespoke endeavors.

Thanks to all,
Jason

 

[elvk11]

Going to a horse race and am able to pull off the blazer and shorts look..

I have a light red/white micro gingham print, navy blazer with gold buttons, light red and white striped pocket square, and darker brown leather boat shoes.

Should I go with a light khaki short? Dark khaki? Light blue?

 

[elvk11]

The gingham is the shirt, sorry. Low modern style button down collar.

 

[Murlsquirl]



Hi SF.  I am a brand new member, and am having trouble navigating all the info on the site.  I am hoping to find a single place where I can find a checklist of sorts to help me plan new orders with my tailor.  This is to help me remember all the important things to go over when designing the garment.  A short version might look like this (but I know I am forgetting things.  Hence, the request):

Coat:

Arm hole size
vents
material and color for buttons
lapel style and width
length (traditional, more modern, etc.)
etc.

Trousers:

pleats
cuffs
slimness (is that a word)
etc.

I suspect this exists, and appreciate a point in the right direction.  If not, perhaps we can create it to help people in their bespoke endeavors.

Thanks to all,
Jason

Welcome to the forum, Jason. Are you taking about true bespoke or Made to Measure? Bespoke tailors usually have a house style and for the most part, you should go with the tailor that has the cut/style you are looking for. Almost everything on your checklist will be talked about with the tailor....most can be accommodated with MTM as well. I'll point you in whatever direction you need, just not quite sure what you're looking for.

 

[WeakMonday]

checkpoint of things to bring with you:
a good fitting dress shirt (length of sleeves and the collar should be good)
your best fitting jacket (as a starting point for the tailor)

Some additional checkpoints for the jacket:

Roll point of the lapel (ie 3 roll 2 or 3 roll 2.5)
Buttoning point (lower vs the more contemporary high vs the contemporary too high)
Shoulder extension (how much)
Shoulder shape (concave, convex, straight)
Shoulder padding (possibly to create the shoulder shape you want or you just like it)
Fullness of sleeves
Sleeve style (regular (different for different tailors), spalla camicia (shirt shoulder), con rollino (with roll), roped)
Pocket style of hip pockets (jetted, patch, with flaps) additionally if you want them hacking (slanted)
Pocket style of chest pocket (welted or patch) and if you want the barchetta curve for it
Sleeve buttons (how many)

Note that a lot of these options are relative. For example when I asked my Chinese tailor for high armholes he said of course and did a jacket with their idea of high armholes. When I was getting measured by one of my Neapolitan tailors he pointed out how laughably low the armholes for my Chinese jacket were.

Also some tailors might not be comfortable with your requests... like I asked the Chinese tailor for more shoulder extension and they gave me some reasoning about how it couldn't be done... while the Neapolitan tailors knew what I was asking for.

Good luck with your journey... just know that choosing the right bespoke tailor is about 90% of the battle.

 

[Murlsquirl]



Going to a horse race and am able to pull off the blazer and shorts look..

I have a light red/white micro gingham print, navy blazer with gold buttons, light red and white striped pocket square, and darker brown leather boat shoes.

Should I go with a light khaki short? Dark khaki? Light blue?

Welcome to the forum, elvk. I don't think that blazer will work with the look you are going for. How about putting it all on and snapping a pic?

 

[jdeck01]

I think I am talking about true bespoke. As in, ground up construction of a suit. To my knowledge, my tailor does not have a signature, and often shows me all the cool customizations he makes for his other clients. So, it's a situation of death by choices.

 

[jdeck01]

Awesome. Thank you for your guidance here. In addition to everything in your post, I will be bringing a book pf pictures to show the tailor what I mean when I say things like "slim", "high arm holes" etc.

 

[Murlsquirl]



I think I am talking about true bespoke.  As in, ground up construction of a suit.  To my knowledge, my tailor does not have a signature, and often shows me all the cool customizations he makes for his other clients.  So, it's a situation of death by choices.  

Ok, just wanted to make sure. Looks like WM have you a good rundown....best of luck!

 

[BrooksLauren77]

First, I am a long-time lurker. Thank you everyone for teaching me so many things about men's style.

I recently bought a pair of Cole Haan Chelsea Boots on sale. The color is called "sequoia". It's a greyish brown (sorry for lack of better words). Here is the link:
http://www.colehaan.com/marshall-chelsea-sequoia/701937397460.html


I did a search but cannot find any shoe cream or polish for "sequoia" color. Not even among the 37 colors of Meltonian shoe cream offered on amazon. Do you have any recommendation for the closest color I can use for shoe cream or polish?

Neutral coloured shoe polish.

 

[Shinystuffbuyer]

I am trying to get a custom made overcoat. How much fabric would I need for an SB overcoat? I am 5'8" and a 40R. Do I have to get more or less fabric if it's cashmere?