2021 SF Retrospective -or- How did you SF in 2021?

[TexasToast]

My thoughts on segmentation and affiliate threads here. I see two forces at work over the past couple years that have contributed to this. The first is the steady increase of online shopping, and the second is the pandemic limiting access to physical stores. Living in a small Midwest college town where clothes in my size are difficult/impossible to find, I certainly can't complain about the much better options for online purchasing. However, the downside of online clothes shopping is that one tends to look at one item at a time (a pair of shoes, a shirt, a sweater) rather than trying on outfits, as i would in a real clothing store. I was in NYC a few months ago -- my first trip to a large city in over a year -- and it was great to be able to do this again. I'm sure we've all seen posts here that go like, "I just bought this pair of shoes but I don't know what to wear with them -- help!"

I don't know about your experience, but I find that women are more likely than men to try on entire outfits in stores. I do think that there is a general tendency here to think about single items of clothing (or a single pair of shoes) and not about the whole outfit.

I live in a big city and sometimes it's difficult for me to purchase clothing because of my size I'm a 19/37 in shirts, 48 waist and size 14 shoes I rarely go into a store to shop for clothing unless it's my first time going there. Online shopping is a little better depending on what I'm shopping for. Shoes are no problem as well as shirts, I don't have many issues with trousers but jeans omg it's a battle. I hope this trend of sartorial exclusion of larger men stops really soon.

 

[ValidusLA]

My thoughts on segmentation and affiliate threads here. I see two forces at work over the past couple years that have contributed to this. The first is the steady increase of online shopping, and the second is the pandemic limiting access to physical stores. Living in a small Midwest college town where clothes in my size are difficult/impossible to find, I certainly can't complain about the much better options for online purchasing. However, the downside of online clothes shopping is that one tends to look at one item at a time (a pair of shoes, a shirt, a sweater) rather than trying on outfits, as i would in a real clothing store. I was in NYC a few months ago -- my first trip to a large city in over a year -- and it was great to be able to do this again. I'm sure we've all seen posts here that go like, "I just bought this pair of shoes but I don't know what to wear with them -- help!"

I don't know about your experience, but I find that women are more likely than men to try on entire outfits in stores. I do think that there is a general tendency here to think about single items of clothing (or a single pair of shoes) and not about the whole outfit.

I don't disagree w/ your assessment on segmentation per se, but I think one of the main drivers is approval chasing. Social media has trained everyone to care about "likes," and the brand threads are the easiest way to get likes for relatively little effort (though possibly great monetary expense).

RE: in person shopping. I think you are right that fewer men try on full outfits. However, I honestly have a hard time conceptualizing what store I could go to where I'd really want to buy a head to toe outfit that could be tried on there besides the Armoury. There are some cool shops I've seen that would quality in Europe in Japan, or Oak Room in Taipei, or Noos in Shanghai, but I don't fit in sizes in Asia. My drop ranges from 9-11 (Covid pushed it towards an 8 at one point, was unacceptable), and its pretty hard to shop off the rack. With shoulders in the 45/46 (US) range, most stuff with shoulders that size is cut to like...drop 6.

I would love to in person shop, but can't think of a place where I could do that for a whole outfit. Certainly not in LA.

 

[Mirage-]

RE: in person shopping. I think you are right that fewer men try on full outfits. However, I honestly have a hard time conceptualizing what store I could go to where I'd really want to buy a head to toe outfit that could be tried on there besides the Armoury. There are some cool shops I've seen that would quality in Europe in Japan, or Oak Room in Taipei, or Noos in Shanghai, but I don't fit in sizes in Asia. My drop ranges from 9-11 (Covid pushed it towards an 8 at one point, was unacceptable), and its pretty hard to shop off the rack. With shoulders in the 45/46 (US) range, most stuff with shoulders that size is cut to like...drop 6.

I would love to in person shop, but can't think of a place where I could do that for a whole outfit. Certainly not in LA.

Yeah, I totally do not trust one-stop shopping, at least not within my price range. In most cases, shoes are terrible, and so is any leather item. Rest can vary.
If you can afford the Armoury (and can get to one shop, there are none in EU), then yes. It's relatively easy to get good quality when you're paying top-of-the-line prices in all departments, though. But if you can't afford to buy 1000€ shoes, 300€ polos and jeans, 200€ "everyday" shirts and 100€ t-shirts (iirc), then you need to shop smarter, to pick-and-choose carefully from specialists rather than from someone who curated he choice for you. Unless you're happy with high-street level of quality, ofc.

 

[bicycleradical]

How did I SF this year?

While I am still devoted to classic menswear, with the pandemic happening and teleworking being ubiquitous, I didn't have the same opportunities to wear CM to work. This resulted in me adding to the more casual section of my wardrobe: sport shirts, suede jacket, derbies, loafers, etc. I began constructing a more casual aesthetic in my wardrobe and it feels good! Having some variety has proven to be useful.

 

[pwbower]

After a couple of years of mostly lurking, I've timidly begun participating in a few discussions, only to the extent that I think I have something valuable to add, which isn't much.

I've learned a lot. In addition to absorbing information from smart and experienced people about the traditions of CM, I've also learned that you can't buy style. And putting together a correct look doesn't mean it'll make you look good. So I've focused on homing in on what really works for me and makes me feel good.

I've always loved vintage clothing, and I especially love the posters who incorporate those items into their looks, ala @acutestyle or @stiffrhythms. I'd participate even more if there were more discussion around this topic. Should probably take that upon myself. Places like The Fedora Lounge don't really interest me. Lots of collectors, not a lot of style.

There was so much arguing going on at one point, that I almost left the forum altogether. It just felt too toxic, with all the other stuff going on in the world. But the good outweighs the bad here, and, in 2022, I plan to focus more on the positive. How's that for a resolution?

 

[Zerase]

I will probably use StyFo in 2022 the same way as I have used it the past years. Mainly following the thrift thread and shitposting there from time to time. The community in that thread is really nice and it amazes me what people find in thrift shops in USA comparing to what I find in Sweden.

Other threads i post in was affiliate threads when I hade a question regarding a product I was interested in.

Some fit pics in the two fit pic-threads and that's about it. Still lurking in the bespoke thread to see what people make.

 

[breakaway01]

Yeah, I totally do not trust one-stop shopping, at least not within my price range. In most cases, shoes are terrible, and so is any leather item. Rest can vary.
If you can afford the Armoury (and can get to one shop, there are none in EU), then yes. It's relatively easy to get good quality when you're paying top-of-the-line prices in all departments, though. But if you can't afford to buy 1000€ shoes, 300€ polos and jeans, 200€ "everyday" shirts and 100€ t-shirts (iirc), then you need to shop smarter, to pick-and-choose carefully from specialists rather than from someone who curated he choice for you. Unless you're happy with high-street level of quality, ofc.

For me it is not about buying the whole outfit or one-stop shopping. It's trying to see how one item fits into a context. It may not be as relevant for tailored clothing, as I can generally see how a sportcoat or tie would fit into my wardrobe. For me, it's more helpful for SWD or CM-adjacent looks. For example I've been on the fence about whether a rollneck sweater would work for me. I could buy online and return, but frankly I hate the idea of the time spent finding the right one, returns, carbon emissions of transport, etc. I'd much prefer to go somewhere where I can try on several pieces at the same time and decide whether that particular rollneck works with a sportcoat or suit.

 

[Mirage-]

For me it is not about buying the whole outfit or one-stop shopping. It's trying to see how one item fits into a context. It may not be as relevant for tailored clothing, as I can generally see how a sportcoat or tie would fit into my wardrobe. For me, it's more helpful for SWD or CM-adjacent looks. For example I've been on the fence about whether a rollneck sweater would work for me. I could buy online and return, but frankly I hate the idea of the time spent finding the right one, returns, carbon emissions of transport, etc. I'd much prefer to go somewhere where I can try on several pieces at the same time and decide whether that particular rollneck works with a sportcoat or suit.

I can understand that. Unfortunately, the deeper I get into CM, the harder it becomes to find what I'm looking for in physical shops near me. On one hand, it's helped me to only buy things I'm certain I'll like rather than settle for something that's nor really what I wanted; on the other, I often just don't find it. Ironically, the absolute worst was trying to find medium rise, straight-legged, non-distressed jeans in pure cotton, i.e. possibly the most basic wardrobe item. After months of looking, I turned to the internet, tried 2 sizes from Nudie, and finally I have my jeans.
At the moment the only thing I prefer to buy locally (or rather, order MTM) are shirts, which somehow is significantly cheaper than most shirting good online shops offer (which is about the price of mid level Italian bespoke).

 

[Zerase]

I can understand that. Unfortunately, the deeper I get into CM, the harder it becomes to find what I'm looking for in physical shops near me. On one hand, it's helped me to only buy things I'm certain I'll like rather than settle for something that's nor really what I wanted; on the other, I often just don't find it. Ironically, the absolute worst was trying to find medium rise, straight-legged, non-distressed jeans in pure cotton, i.e. possibly the most basic wardrobe item. After months of looking, I turned to the internet, tried 2 sizes from Nudie, and finally I have my jeans.
At the moment the only thing I prefer to buy locally (or rather, order MTM) are shirts, which somehow is significantly cheaper than most shirting good online shops offer (which is about the price of mid level Italian bespoke).

Is that the Steady Eddie II model from Nudie that you are referring to? If so, I had the exact same problem, luckily I am from the same town (Göteborg) as the brand. Just walked in their shop and bought me a pair this autumn.

 

[Mirage-]

Is that the Steady Eddie II model from Nudie that you are referring to? If so, I had the exact same problem, luckily I am from the same town (Göteborg) as the brand. Just walked in their shop and bought me a pair this autumn.

No, actually the Gritty Jackson. I was a bit curious of the difference, but as I understand, SEII is slightly more tapered? In which case, I am happy with how the GJ is, i.e. slim-ish in top black, some space in the thigh, then almost straight after the knee.
Unfortunately there are no Nudie shops in Italy (neither official nor part of the affiliate program) so can't quite use the "free repairs forever" part, which is a bit sad.

 

[Zerase]

No, actually the Gritty Jackson. I was a bit curious of the difference, but as I understand, SEII is slightly more tapered? In which case, I am happy with how the GJ is, i.e. slim-ish in top black, some space in the thigh, then almost straight after the knee.

Yeah I think the SEII has more room in the thighs and butt, but I can be mistaken. Anyway they fit me great, just need them to add some more selvedge fabrics

 

[Mirage-]

Yeah I think the SEII has more room in the thighs and butt, but I can be mistaken. Anyway they fit me great, just need them to add some more selvedge fabrics

I'm still not sure I should even care if my jeans are selvedge or not, and my beloved pair in dusty (aka unbleached) white isn't.
I don't like to show the selvedge ID anyway, I took the 30'' (again something hard to find in stores, plus no one I know does chain stitch hemming here) specifically so I can just roll the hem only.
So, that taken out, people love to say that selvedge is a sign of higher quality because it's more expensive since it's made slower, but that's hardly an assurance of much.

 

[gnatty8]

RRL, western boots, and liquor. Sums up how I’ve been using SF in the last 18 months. CE is almost too toxic of an echo chamber but still read from time to time, even though the number of people I have on ignore over there makes it seem like each page only has 2 or 3 posts

 

[dieworkwear]

CE is almost too toxic of an echo chamber but still read from time to time, even though the number of people I have on ignore over there makes it seem like each page only has 2 or 3 posts

Isn't that creating your own echo chamber?

 

[gnatty8]

Isn't that creating your own echo chamber?

don’t give me ideas..