MC General Chat

[bry2000]

That’s your size. Don’t size down.

 

[whorishconsumer]

I'm curious if anyone has any knowledge of this kind of lapel and it's relevance historically, if any? This is a vintage Eddie Bauer, supposedly from the 70s.

 

[whorishconsumer]

On an unrelated matter, my recent sartorial thoughts taken from recently-watched cinema:

David Soul wears a very well-fitted green corduroy, patch-elbowed, wide-lapel sport coat in Salem's Lot (1979).

The Outfit (2022) is a solid piece of single-setting-emulating-a-play cinema, not least of all because of the attention to detail it puts toward tailoring (or cutting). Recommended.

 

[othertravel]

I'm digging this cut (it's a new Tom Ford model - the Cooper).

 

[clee1982]

I like it

 

[othertravel]

Take advantage of the weaker Euro!

Only 2688 euros.

 

[othertravel]

The only critique (albeit a very minor one) is that the gorge is a little high. But it’s offset by the low buttoning point.

 

[smittycl]

Really liking Stoffa's F/W stuff. Don't think I could wear this at work but love it. Still...

Anyone wear a lot of Stoffa? I assume it's worth the money?

Double Breasted Shirt Jacket (Chocolate Moss Flannel)

Features Double-breasted, 2x1 front buttoning Straight silhouette with no taper Unlined Two panel shirt-style construction Single piece back panel Two generous bucket pockets at waist Two internal breast pockets Single needle stitching French seamed interior Unfinished sleeve cuffs

stoffa.co

Single Pleat Trouser (Chocolate Moss Flannel)

Features Straight fit Side adjusters Lined to the knee Single pleat Extended tab closure Zipper fly Skirted internal waistband Split back waist Slanted side pockets Coin pocket at right hip Two button-through back pockets Reinforcement bar tacks on stress points Generous seam allowance...

stoffa.co

 

[othertravel]

Hey everybody,

I'm making my first trip to NYC in a long while, and will be making the following menswear stops for potential MTM commissions:

1. RL - Purple label starts at $2650
2. Armoury - $3,700ish for 100 series.
3. Paul Stuart - Phineas Cole starts at $2600 minus 15% off promotion for the month.

Can anybody comment on the quality of the MTM programs in the above stores?

 

[bry2000]

Really liking Stoffa's F/W stuff. Don't think I could wear this at work but love it. Still...

Anyone wear a lot of Stoffa? I assume it's worth the money?

Double Breasted Shirt Jacket (Chocolate Moss Flannel)

Features Double-breasted, 2x1 front buttoning Straight silhouette with no taper Unlined Two panel shirt-style construction Single piece back panel Two generous bucket pockets at waist Two internal breast pockets Single needle stitching French seamed interior Unfinished sleeve cuffs

stoffa.co

Single Pleat Trouser (Chocolate Moss Flannel)

Features Straight fit Side adjusters Lined to the knee Single pleat Extended tab closure Zipper fly Skirted internal waistband Split back waist Slanted side pockets Coin pocket at right hip Two button-through back pockets Reinforcement bar tacks on stress points Generous seam allowance...

stoffa.co

It’s really not. At least not for me.

 

[clee1982]

They’re all different aesthetic, what do you actually like?

Hey everybody,

I'm making my first trip to NYC in a long while, and will be making the following menswear stops for potential MTM commissions:

1. RL - Purple label starts at $2650
2. Armoury - $3,700ish for 100 series.
3. Paul Stuart - Phineas Cole starts at $2600 minus 15% off promotion for the month.

Can anybody comment on the quality of the MTM programs in the above stores?

 

[whorishconsumer]

Really liking Stoffa's F/W stuff. Don't think I could wear this at work but love it. Still...

Anyone wear a lot of Stoffa? I assume it's worth the money?

Double Breasted Shirt Jacket (Chocolate Moss Flannel)

Features Double-breasted, 2x1 front buttoning Straight silhouette with no taper Unlined Two panel shirt-style construction Single piece back panel Two generous bucket pockets at waist Two internal breast pockets Single needle stitching French seamed interior Unfinished sleeve cuffs

stoffa.co

Single Pleat Trouser (Chocolate Moss Flannel)

Features Straight fit Side adjusters Lined to the knee Single pleat Extended tab closure Zipper fly Skirted internal waistband Split back waist Slanted side pockets Coin pocket at right hip Two button-through back pockets Reinforcement bar tacks on stress points Generous seam allowance...

stoffa.co

People that like them really like them. I have a pair of basketweave canvas slacks from them that was part of their RTW collection for Mr. Porter and I like them.

I think their initial appeal was that you could get a pair of MTM trousers for ~$250. That and Agyesh presents a breezy, monochromatic style that people like to envision themselves wearing. As they've expanded to RTW in the last two years I think some of the high-touch aspects that were present with trunk shows and the like have disappeared (based on forum gossip), and undoubtedly their manufacturing has changed. And they're more expensive, although probably situated about right if you look at the market.

Early on there were a lot of issues with shrinkage, so much that they had this thing where you would wear the pants up until the first cleaning, have them (dry)cleaned and then come back to have them lengthened to make up for the shrinkage. They kept extra material in the hem for this very reason. Not sure if this is still and issue or not, but mine have lasted a few drycleanings so far.

 

[othertravel]

They’re all different aesthetic, what do you actually like?

RLPL and PS both have a nice English esthetic, and a great range of cloths, which is what I'm going for. I like the RLPL 'Kent' model, and the Coleman model from PS.

The Armoury 100 series is a bit different, but again, some good customization options.

I guess what I'm really asking is whether anybody can confirm (based on their own experiences) that any of the above brands have a good MTM program (i.e. know how to take proper measurements, good customer service if there are problems, etc...).

 

[hpreston]

Hey everybody,

I'm making my first trip to NYC in a long while, and will be making the following menswear stops for potential MTM commissions:

1. RL - Purple label starts at $2650
2. Armoury - $3,700ish for 100 series.
3. Paul Stuart - Phineas Cole starts at $2600 minus 15% off promotion for the month.

Can anybody comment on the quality of the MTM programs in the above stores?

I guess what I'm really asking is whether anybody can confirm (based on their own experiences) that any of the above brands have a good MTM program (i.e. know how to take proper measurements, good customer service if there are problems, etc...).

I can give general feedback on The Armoury's MTM program (not the 100 Series; specifically, Ring Jacket, and Orazio Luciano)

The gents at The Amoury know how to take measurements, adjust for posture, etc. They have excellent customer service, and I've never encountered any problems (other than anxiously awaiting finished product after ordering) In all seriousness, the turnaround time for RJ, and Orazio have both been pretty timely.

 

[clee1982]

Not really answer your question…

If my memory is right Kent is quite slim and short not really English

Coleman is bigger lapel lower button point, clean shoulder no roping, more “English” but definitely not your standard English?

no idea about 100, but I thought it was suppose to replace Mode 1 (the more structured stuff) so I guess more English

though do you really need MTM, if MTO works might as well save a few hundred dollars. And given how cheap RTW can be had these days I just can’t see myself spend that much MTM

Like at this point you’re only getting different fabric vs RTW if things fit you?