Luxire Custom Clothing - Official Affiliate Thread

[NOBD]

Can I get the details on this collar? Specifically, I'm looking to know if it's lined or unlined and fused or unfused. I'm wanting to order a couple for casual/smart casual wear. Thanks!

Softly lined, unfused. I guess Luxire will have any further details.

 

[dukeaw]

Style question for @luxire or anyone else?

I ordered and received all my shirts (~10+ shirts) with the English collar. I only now notice that they all have 2" collar back height. These replaced my older shirts from another maker/OTR that had 1 and 1/2" collar back height.

I'm not against the higher collars, but it was something I didn't consider. I just need to figure out how to wear them.

I'm working with my local tailor on a new suit. How much shirt collar is advised to show above the suit collar with a collar back height at 2"? My tailor measured and now I show about 7/8" of shirt collar with my Luxire collars. I'm trying to decide if I raise the collar of my suit by 1/4" or leave the almost full inch of collar showing...

Thoughts or guidance?...

 

[1up]

1. your shirt sleeves need to be longer. If the cuffs are the right size there should be excess fabric in the sleeve so they wont pull when you move your arms. They should rest just slightly above the notch of your thumb when unbuttoned.

2. I'd recommend darts on back of shirt for cleaner drape on back.

3. As luxire about shoulder slope. I think it may be off slightly.

4. This is my opinion but your pants are too tight. There is no drape. It should be a clean line that drapes from your waist to your shoe. Try more room in thigh and a bit more in knee. I know you said your style is slimmer, but timeless tailoring is about proper fit, which involves hanging and drape of clothes, not hugging of clothes. I'd recommend trying it before you say it isnt your style. I used to wear super slim a few years ago until a local tailor defied my request and made items for me and I never looked back. If you're going for fashion then your tight is fine and its your prerogative.

5. Your seat is too tight which is why the pockets flair. Increase half hips measure. This is not a style vs fashion comment since this is a fit correction.

6. regarding bunching under the seat, you need to either adjust the angle of the front/rear rise or reduce rear rise. Luxire can give you proper answer for this.

Luxire's recommendation was:
- We should lower the crotch point by 0.5"
- increase the hip width at the rear center seam by 0.25"
- and remove 0.5" horizontally from the back panel, just under the seat.

Does lowering the crotch point mean increasing the rise? I agree with the hip width, and think even more than 0.25" is needed.

Not sure what removing the 0.5" horizontally from the back panel, under the seat, would accomplish. It's already tight under there?

 

[Camillo]

Does lowering the crotch point mean increasing the rise?

Yes, but only at the crotch (it means your waistband will stay at the same height). Just imagine the crotch seam will move down, in your case by 0.5".

 

[BIGBILLYBIG]

Two questions:

1. Is there a collar between NOBD II and Italian collar in size? How would one change the size of a collar "overall"? I quite like both, but NOBD II is a tad too small for my liking and Italian collar too large...

2. Which color should I dye the "cream" trial pants I just received? They're not so much cream as they are a horrendous, glossy mix of mustard and gold which I will not be able to wear ever. Serves me right for picking trial pants.

 

[patliean1]

1. Is there a collar between NOBD II and Italian collar in size? How would one change the size of a collar "overall"? I quite like both, but NOBD II is a tad too small for my liking and Italian collar too large...

My default collar style is a modified NOBDII collar. Below are my original order details from 4 years ago:

NOBDII collar with following changes:
-Increase Collar Band Height by 0.25” (from 1.5” to 1.75”)
-Increase Collar Points by 0.25” (from 3.5” to 3.75”)

 

[BIGBILLYBIG]

My default collar style is a modified NOBDII collar. Below are my original order details from 4 years ago:

NOBDII collar with following changes:
-Increase Collar Band Height by 0.25” (from 1.5” to 1.75”)
-Increase Collar Points by 0.25” (from 3.5” to 3.75”)

View attachment 1330341

Just what I was looking for! Thanks a lot.

 

[breakaway01]

My default collar style is a modified NOBDII collar. Below are my original order details from 4 years ago:

NOBDII collar with following changes:
-Increase Collar Band Height by 0.25” (from 1.5” to 1.75”)
-Increase Collar Points by 0.25” (from 3.5” to 3.75”)

Looks very nice! Would you be able to provide an order number for that collar? I just may have to try it out.

 

[Fraussie]

My default collar style is a modified NOBDII collar. Below are my original order details from 4 years ago:

NOBDII collar with following changes:
-Increase Collar Band Height by 0.25” (from 1.5” to 1.75”)
-Increase Collar Points by 0.25” (from 3.5” to 3.75”)

View attachment 1330341

very nice - do you happen to have a photo without jacket and with collar opened (no tie)?

 

[patliean1]

very nice - do you happen to have a photo without jacket and with collar opened (no tie)?

Yes. You can search this thread for photos i've posted in the past.

 

[JJ Katz]

My default collar style is a modified NOBDII collar. Below are my original order details from 4 years ago:

NOBDII collar with following changes:
-Increase Collar Band Height by 0.25” (from 1.5” to 1.75”)
-Increase Collar Points by 0.25” (from 3.5” to 3.75”)

View attachment 1330341

Man, that’s a razor-sharp outfit.

 

[patliean1]

VBC: Stone Covert Wool has arrived from Black Friday straight out of the box. Included some cool macro shots showcasing the tight weave pattern.

Bonus shot for @Fraussie - My modified NOBD II collar sans a jacket. Fabric is Sky Blue Oxford

 

[MrBokito]

VBC: Stone Covert Wool has arrived from Black Friday straight out of the box. Included some cool macro shots showcasing the tight weave pattern.

Bonus shot for @Fraussie - My modified NOBD II collar sans a jacket. Fabric is Sky Blue Oxford

View attachment 1331008 View attachment 1331009 View attachment 1331010 View attachment 1331011

Do you also have some close ups of your spalla camicia / shirring on your shirt?

 

[patliean1]

Do you also have some close ups of your spalla camicia / shirring on your shirt?

I'll post some tomorrow.

 

[Thilgela]

First commission with Luxire. Guess I suffer the floppy butt issue as well? Everything else looks okay.

what would you guys suggest to change for my next order? Would like to get rid of the folding at the seat. @luxire