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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

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  1. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Bolded for truth. An excellent observation.

    I, for one, would welcome more active critiquing of overzealous competitive pattern-matchers by respected veterans like yourself. You, and others who feel as you do, may be surprised to find more support here than you think. While on the one hand, I enjoy the spectacle of the pattern matching wars (kind of like a car crash you can't look away from), very few here actually do it successfully, to a consistently high level.

    My personal aesthetic tends more towards clean minimalism, with maybe 2-3 patterns max (implying I am also fine with all solids/single pattern), and more subtle patterns at that. Minimalist, but not full-blown CBD austerity.

    I think it takes someone with a lot of confidence and/or bluster :)foo: ) to enter a hornet's nest and begin :nest: and perhaps make some unpopular suggestions. spectre has tried that, only his approach was a bit brusque to say the least, and not particularly constructive. If a couple of influential members enter the nest together, and have each others' backs, I think they'd find more people willing to emerge from the darkened corners to voice their support (I know of at least a few respected members who have privately confided to me they think the complicated pattern thing has gone a bit over the top). Not that I'm advocating an SF revolution (a subtle shifting of the tide perhaps), but I think the exuberance could be tempered a bit, particularly by noobs who charge out of the gate trying to become the next Spoo or Braddock (not suggesting the 2 have similar styles, just that they are among the more expressive dressers here).

    Attempting to master the basics always seems a good rule of thumb (I'm still trying).


    Interesting observations. As I imply above, the more involvement by more knowledgable members (possibly yourself?) may help to steer the ship in a truer direction.

    I do agree that with longevity and greater visibility, a place like this can become somewhat overpopulated with new, uninformed participants who might do better to listen more and comment less (I sometimes still feel that about myself). And I can see how this proliferation could be a turnoff to longstanding members accustomed to a more rarified atmosphere. So it goes.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2014
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  2. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    tbh I really liked Claghorn's fu jacket outfit.

    idk if anyone is thinking of that one in reference to this discussion.
     
  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Moderator

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    For all the talk of the good old days, mostly, what we had more of six or seven years ago was nerdy discussion. In the earliest days of the forum, there were actually a lot more truly hardcore hobbyists. It wasn't all about bespoke. Thrifting was a huge thing, as was super high end designer stuff. All this co-existed on the same forum - SWD did not make an appearance until about 2003. There was one guy who had an incredible collection of Jhane Bharnes knitwear, which, in its earliest days, was a lot like Missoni. He is still on here, occasionally, lurking. We can still do that today. That the conversation for a number of years veered towards bespoke, and stayed there a while, was in large part, a Manton thing. That, and his rather conservative, but well thought out opinions, are appealing and accessible to a lot of men, so that voice rose above many others, for a numer of years. Manton and I still chat regularly, and I can tell you without a shadow of a doubt that he slowed down his posting primarily because he "only has that much to say about clothing." These days, he is applying his intense nerdiness to other things, and I say that with much love. And, incidentally, although he hold pretty strong opinions, he is also not above trying new things and adjusting his opinions.

    I also know itsstillamatt - he is a personal friend, and one of the guys I try to make sure to eat dinner with every time I am in San Francisco. He loves crazy pattern jackets, and wears them well. He also has, and has extensive knowledge, of designer clothing. So, his personal style is Rubinacci-esque, but I would call him dogmatic about it, although he is usually amused at my extensive sneaker collection. Both of those guys, and a few more of the "luminaries" of which you speak, dropped off in their posting mostly because it's hard to post continually about a single subject for 12+ years. Think about it. That is a mid-career academic. Actually, mid-career anything except for "congressman", I think. There were some that had issues with the direction of the forum, but those are the exception, rather than the norm.

    I occasionally get emails from old members, and invariably, the emails read something like "I haven't been on the forum forever - I sorta dropped off after getting married/a new job/moving to a new area. I was looking up something about X brand. It's great to see how the forum has grown and really evolved since I was on there." That growth and evolution is due to you guys. Yeah, we used to have some pretty awesome posters who have dropped off, but on the plus side, we have even more really great members, and a larger group, these days. Yeah, it's fun to read Manton's dissertations on drape. But don't discount or undervalue what you guys are doing now.

    Cheers,

    Fok.

    `
     
    18 people like this.
  4. Tried and True

    Tried and True Senior member

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    Another vote for #1.
     
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  5. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    Funny you should mention that, because clags tends to be one of the more excellent, consistent dressers here. The FU jacket is a bit outside his norm, though he and many others seem to enjoy it (I am on the fence about it, though will add it's not at all an easy piece to combine. I think he has hits and misses with it).

    Still, it's good to explore beyond one's comfort zone on occasion.
     
  6. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Senior member

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    Shouldn't this "Before, SF was way better and knowledgeable, and now it's just full of dandies" talk merits it's own thread? I mean, it's a nice discussion to have I'm sure, but I think it differs from this thread intended purpose, which is for users to post pictures of their daily outfits.
     
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  7. applky

    applky Senior member

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    Real Parking Lots of New Jersey

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Southwick x Epaulet SC
    Vanda tie
    Epaulet linen trou
    Carmina chukkas
    Kent Wang PS
     
    6 people like this.
  8. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    4 people like this.
  9. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    To tie in (yes, I know) recent excess pattern debate, I'll dip my toe in the water by suggesting the gun club check would be better served with a solid tie, perhaps a grenadine or something with similar textural interest. Support rather than compete. Also, hard to get a sense of fit down below with hands in pants pockets. All IMO, naturally.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2014
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  10. Pingson

    Pingson Senior member

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    I agree on the problems of matching patterned ties with gun club/houndstooth jackets - solid ties are almost always the best choice there. However, if you should use a patterned tie, striped ties are (IMHO) the pattern that pairs best with that type of jacket. In this particular case, and with this particular tie and jacket, it didn't work all that well and a solid tie would likely have been the better choice.
     
  11. applky

    applky Senior member

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    Haha appreciate the pun.

    I completely sympathize with your pattern comments. All week, though, I had been solid-solid-pattern up top, and I was itching to mix it up.
     
  12. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Re: Fok's point, I think it's natural people are going to come and go. Most people show up with a question, get what they need and go. Others become hobbyists and stay longer before moving on to something else. But that so many of the old folks are still here and not posting, or active elsewhere online, reflects very much the shift in the forum's direction. Not that that's bad, necessarily, just different.


    Thank you, but there's been a shift in attitudes toward critique that would make this difficult, SF is more like Andy's now, in that it's a nicer place than it used to be, more comfortable with gentle encouragement (and liberal use of thumbs) than with direct unsolicited critique. There's an undercurrent of "Probably the best he can do," which is positive in that it reflects the reality that we all travel our own path and learn at our own rate. At the same time, that attitude can be patronizing and makes it hard to keep standards high.

    Aside from that, some days I like a bit of daring pattern matching myself. There's a danger in thinking that the old crowd all thought alike, when we really didn't. I never fit easily into any of the SF camps back in the day. But that was one of the differences in now and then -- the terrain hadn't been so thoroughly explored, so there were fewer guys drawing on the same menswear reference points.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2014
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  13. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I'm flattered you should say so Clags, as I find you are one of the more thoughtful if nerdy posters here.

    Having not read the post to that point, perhaps you have had a change of heart? ;)
     
  14. AJL

    AJL Senior member

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    I hear you, and agree on most points, particularly in regards to excess thumbage, which seems as much driven by popularity as quality of fit.

    And I concur that the old crowd could not be lumped into one basket, as some lamenters seem to be inferring.

    Finally, nothing wrong with bold pattern matching on occasion. It's just when it becomes The thing to aspire to, a competition of sorts as you suggest, that the eye and brain grow weary with sensory overload. One loses the sense of unexpectedness, and the excesses tend to outweigh execution in many cases.
     
  15. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Peter Millar
    Zegna
    Serraiocco
    Cravate royal
    Panta
    Bontoni

    Sorry about the bright light from the window in the back
     
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  16. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Senior member

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    At the risk of prolonging the return to your regularly scheduled program, I thought I'd make a few of final points before ducking out.

    I like bright colors; bold patterns and pattern-matching; and sartorial originality, just when I have a sense that the person knows what he's doing and isn't aping commercial schlock.

    Unlike Fok, I don't know Matt and Manton, but they did both spent a lot of time complaining about how bad the "What are you wearing" threads were before they stopped posting in them. But I'm sure they had many more and better reasons to cut back their posting.

    I imagine that Spectre would admit that he's been a bit of an bastard on this forum, and I really don't want to be defending him. But I'm all for people busting up the circle jerk.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2014
  17. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Moderator

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    You're probably right. But most of our threads occasionally meander off into related subject matter, before course correcting by themselves. I like to keep things organic, and only steer things back on course if it seems like we've wandered too far afield, and are in danger of never getting back to the thread topic.
     
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  18. spectre

    spectre Senior member

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    This really does need a solid tie, maybe a navy knit. I think what you may have done is studied every colour in the jacket and decided that because some of the same are also in the tie that they would compliment each other.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2014
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  19. Beginneling83

    Beginneling83 Active Member

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    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Isaia sportscoat,
    Tramarossa jeans
    Drakes pocket square
    Tramarossa jeans
    Maffeis shirt
    Santoni shoes.
     
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  20. spectre

    spectre Senior member

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    Similar jacket and solid tie but the top half looks washed out, leaving top all light and bottom all dark. Brown knit tie?

    If you can put up with my pedantry I'm trying to be constructive, although I strongly disagree with reaction that my general comments early on about pattern overload were not constructive. It was a generalisation which possibly needed a more detailed explanation.
     
    1 person likes this.

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