HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III

[SpooPoker]



Well damn. I was all set to throw up some outlined photos which might highlight some of the contrast between the spoo-jacket-under-discussion and the one he posted today, but this thing seems to have resolved itself and moved on in the time that took...

Well, do it. Im curious.

 

[mktitsworth]



Well, do it. Im curious.

I went with the hand-pocket shot of the SC so that I would be able to get a better comparison between the two.

Here's the sport coat:


And here's the suit jacket:


The scale between the two is not quite exact, but certainly close enough to bring out some of the comments. The difference in shoulder:waist proportion that vox mentioned previously is definitely apparent here. I was also surprised upon doing this at just how strong the shoulder on the suit jacket is. That difference in how the shoulders are shaped between the two makes a big difference in their appearance.

This also makes me think that perhaps what people are after with all of this talk of waist suppression is not so much tighter, as curvier. You can see this difference on the right side of both jackets, where the sport coat is straighter than the suit jacket. I can also see Vox's comment about how a bit more in the lapel and a little from the fronts would help to improve the way that the proportions of the jacket are balanced. However, just looking at the jackets themselves I do like the length of the sport coat better because it appears more consistent with itself as a jacket.

 

[sugarbutch]

Greetings from freezing Salt Lake City this morning:


And, finally back in SF this evening, waiting to be retrieved from the airport:

 

[UrbanComposition]

I always appreciate visuals from ****.

 

[Neofinitia]

**** in 2-D

 

[SpooPoker]



The scale between the two is not quite exact, but certainly close enough to bring out some of the comments. The difference in shoulder:waist proportion that vox mentioned previously is definitely apparent here. I was also surprised upon doing this at just how strong the shoulder on the suit jacket is. That difference in how the shoulders are shaped between the two makes a big difference in their appearance.
This also makes me think that perhaps what people are after with all of this talk of waist suppression is not so much tighter, as curvier. You can see this difference on the right side of both jackets, where the sport coat is straighter than the suit jacket. I can also see Vox's comment about how a bit more in the lapel and a little from the fronts would help to improve the way that the proportions of the jacket are balanced. However, just looking at the jackets themselves I do like the length of the sport coat better because it appears more consistent with itself as a jacket.

Wow, thank you for taking the time to draw that up. Thats pretty amazing. What program did you use to generate those? Seeing the outlines like that, devoid of anything but the shape of something is pretty telling. And damn, the Oxxford from today seems ridiculously long in comparison.

 

[sugarbutch]



I always appreciate visuals of ****.

FTFY

 

[mktitsworth]



Wow, thank you for taking the time to draw that up. Thats pretty amazing. What program did you use to generate those? Seeing the outlines like that, devoid of anything but the shape of something is pretty telling. And damn, the Oxxford from today seems ridiculously long in comparison.

No problemo.

The program is just GIMP. Same thing I did when I was doing the outlines and looking at different spreads of collar. The procedure is pretty simple. Add a new layer to the image, and then use the pencil tool. Pick a spot on the edge and put a pixel there. Then use ctrl and it will draw a line between that point and where you want. From there you can go around pretty easily and quickly to get an outline.

 

[AndroFan]

Be gentle guise. Long time lurker, relatively recent poster, first time WAYW poster. It's not the most exciting ensemble, but I like how it turned out. Forgive the **** cell pics (though I know you won't).










exaggerated...





I ******* LOVE this bag.



Spoofail

Warez:

Suit: The only Austin Reed I've ever found that I liked (in need of taking in at the waist, I know...tailor is on tomorrow)
Shirt: Charles Tyrwhitt trim fit
Tie: The widest Lanvin tie on the planet (seriously, it's like 4.5" wide, but ties a SEXY knot, IMO)
Shoes: Florsheim Imperial wingtips
Bag: STILL no idea, despite thrift thread's best efforts...

 

[CDHagg]

How "structured" a shoulder has no direct relation to how it "looks" specifically on a static jacket. A heavily padded/shoulder can look "natural" or square...when the man isn't moving.
A completely unstructured, upadded shoulder can also look "natural" or square...based on, guess what? what the actual shoulder underneath is.
A man with a healthy, natural drop, with even and slightly sloped shoulders, can wear pretty much anything. A man who is a beanpole (or a pineapple) can be tailored to look approximately the same when completely still. The minute that heavily augmented man moves, however, and goes about the business of the day, those shoulders will look like ping pong tables on either side of his neck, rocking to and fro, queasily independent of his body.
The subterfuge, then, is up. It is obvious to the world that you have no game: instead, you have padding, like a padded bra or pants with the ass foam inserts (cue Barry Manilow reference.)
A particularly humorous account of this phenomena is given unconsciously by Reevolving in his sports bar thread, in which he regales us on the reaction of a woman when he puts his elbows up on the back of a bar stool.
Am I biased and exaggerating? Of course. I do so to make my point clear.
Now, getting back to Spoo for a second, many of you seemed to have daydreamed up a concept of his physique which contradicts his own description of his height and weight. He is slim, even skinny. He is not at an athletic weight (strong like LA Guy), although being slim is great for the sport of wearing tailored clothes. Many of his jackets swim at the shoulders, are constricted in the chest, and are too tight at the waist. The human torso is not naturally a round cylinder; so too with Spoo. He's well-shouldered, thin waisted, but also somewhat wide-hipped (bones, not the 5cm pizza problem.) That is what you are seeing revealed in the jacket from yesterday.
If you square out his shoulders to balance the hips, you have succeeded in one dimension and in a static pose. Your success, however, compromises everything else. If you bring in the middle at the side seams to exaggerate this effect further, then the jacket will not be (or will be less often) fluid on the torso when buttoned. It will "stick" like a lifesaver around your belly.
Instead, if you take the basic form of yesterday's jacket, widen the lapels toward the notch, lower the gorge, shorten the jacket, and cut open the fronts more, you would probably accomplish everything needed to balance shoulders-to-hips while still retaining the fluidity of the jacket. You've all seen this kind of cut before because it is all over the Internet in the form of the Liverano stuff that Cho and Crew carry (or facilliate when it is bespoke) and from several other makers like NSM, etc.
As for your last point about purposefully misfitting things to make it more "interesting," I really have no reaction to that point of view since it implies nothing can be wrong or right. If that really really is the belief system that has captured this thread and the Mens Clothing forum in general, then no wonder some of us feel alienated from it.

This is why I joined Style Forum.

 

[ginghaman]

 

[black_umbrella]



Happy friday everyone. I don't understand this angle thing on the self timer yet. used a crappy picture to show fit a bit better from a front on angle. Also, shoulder does not ripple standing normally. Flash exaggerates colors close.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

2012-02-03-10.34.20 by citan1145, on Flickr

2012-02-03-10.42.42 by citan1145, on Flickr

Spoiler

Photo on 2012-02-03 at 10.48 by citan1145, on Flickr

2012-02-03-10.35.07 by citan1145, on Flickr

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

You got lost in prof. vox there. I like this, but I think the tie and shirt pattern are a little close. The color of the shirt against the tie knocks that down some, plus the vneck crops out a lot of the issue. Looks good at a distance where the shirt pattern is indistinguishable.

 

[black_umbrella]



Wow, thank you for taking the time to draw that up. Thats pretty amazing. What program did you use to generate those? Seeing the outlines like that, devoid of anything but the shape of something is pretty telling. And damn, the Oxxford from today seems ridiculously long in comparison.

It's probably only about an inch long judging from the image...

**** - when you say "more consistent with the jacket" is this in contrast to the suit? I'm thinking along the lines of a closer fit = slightly shorter jacket type of equation.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Citan1145
"woah is that an overcoat or sc? either way, epic fabric. tie has an interesting texture too"

Thanks - it's an overcoat. The tie is a Drakes cashmere via ASW (scarf also Drakes via ASW)

 

[Citan1145]



You got lost in prof. vox there. I like this, but I think the tie and shirt pattern are a little close. The color of the shirt against the tie knocks that down some, plus the vneck crops out a lot of the issue. Looks good at a distance where the shirt pattern is indistinguishable.

Great point, I wanted some pattern in the tie because the vneck was just a blob of color. I should have just used a solid knit. I had these same concerns but it looked ok from a distance so I just ran with it . Thanks for the feedback!