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Gordon Yao

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by dragon8, Feb 19, 2007.

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  1. cincinnatus2

    cincinnatus2 Member

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    Anyone know what his US Touring schedule is this year or next year?
     
  2. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Anyone know what his US Touring schedule is this year or next year?

    Check Ascot Chang US tour schedule, he come with AC.
     
  3. gomanred

    gomanred Member

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    I am giving him a try tomorrow or Monday and will get his US tour schedule while at the shop.

    Based upon the reviews here, I am taking a leap of faith and using him on a suit.

    Most likely Scabel Blue Label fabric (hope that is spelled right) in a pin stripe. I use A-Man (AMHC) usually, but trying to broaden my tailors.
     
  4. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    I am giving him a try tomorrow or Monday and will get his US tour schedule while at the shop.

    Based upon the reviews here, I am taking a leap of faith and using him on a suit.

    Most likely Scabel Blue Label fabric (hope that is spelled right) in a pin stripe. I use A-Man (AMHC) usually, but trying to broaden my tailors.


    Any chance you can share your experience here?
     
  5. bigasahouse

    bigasahouse Senior member

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    Got basted fitting by Gordon here in HK yesterday. I was quite impressed, I'll report back when the final product is done. I asked for him to take out the shoulder padding and make the scye softer, and he slipped the padding right out of there in front of me (I'd heard it was hard to get him to make a soft shoulder). I also asked him to move the scyes closer inwards towards the center of my body, since I believe that increases shoulder mobility (he knew what an Anderson and Sheppard type shoulder was). Armsyces weren't ultra-high and tight like I've seen on Fred Astaire, but that's fine and I was told in another forum that it's not good to ask a tailor to deviate too much from what he's used to. Overall it draped very nicely, I was stunned in fact... maybe a lot of that has to do with the fact I had it made up in 21 oz Huddersfield worsted [​IMG]

    I ordered three suits from Gordon during his recent US trip. I received them last week and they fit very well. I asked for less padding in the shoulders than he normally puts in and he was happy to oblige. The suits came in the mail. I just had to have them pressed and now I've started wearing them. Gordon is a skilled tailor, honest and a gentleman.

    How much is he charging for a suit now?
     
  6. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    How much is he charging for a suit now?

    Starts at $1200 USD and $710 for CMT
     
  7. bigasahouse

    bigasahouse Senior member

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    Starts at $1200 USD and $710 for CMT

    Thanks!
     
  8. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    Thought this thread finally needed a pic, these aren't the best, but here's a Yao suit in 21 oz Huddersfield with WW Chan shirt. Both fitted in HK. Area below the waist ('quarters') are a little roomier than I'd like, a few other minor problems here and there, but it's still a great deal. [​IMG]
     
  9. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Looks good Svenn!!!
     
  10. JT82

    JT82 Senior member

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    Looks great. Any word on Yao's upcoming US tours?
     
  11. xingby

    xingby Active Member

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    That's a nice look. Pardon my asking, but how wide are those lapels?
     
  12. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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  13. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    ^Thanks all. I had my initial misgivings with Yao because I didn't get the perfect armscye I wanted, and there was a fairly major problem in the hips/small of my back... but now that I've 'broken in' the suit more I'm actually fairly pleased with it. And at $700 it's a great deal... just don't expect a Savile Row level of bespoke. I never had a suit from Chan but from pics I've seen here (the infamous Shanghai thread) and what I've heard, Yao might do a better, cleaner look than they do, but I can't confirm. Chan's shirt however is very nice... I like rigid collars and cuffs, and they did a good job of making it the style I was looking for.


    That's a nice look. Pardon my asking, but how wide are those lapels?

    3.5 inches... it was the widest Gordon would 'recommend' I go (he is opinionated). I'm 5'11'' if it's scale you're trying to figure out.
     
  14. krakatoa

    krakatoa Well-Known Member

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    I commissioned Gordon to make a Scabal suit last year and by and large was pleased with the result. I was in HK on Saturday and pushed the button on another. There were some minor issues with the first suit which I discussed with him and hopefully will be corrected with the second (I brought the first along to show him), but generally, I'm following same tailoring style. Fitting in early October and pick up in late November (which is driven by my visits to HK). He holds opinions on most things and is not shy about expressing them (this can take some getting used to), but obviously is prepared to defer to the client's wishes.
     
  15. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    ^Thanks all. I had my initial misgivings with Yao because I didn't get the perfect armscye I wanted, and there was a fairly major problem in the hips/small of my back... but now that I've 'broken in' the suit more I'm actually fairly pleased with it. And at $700 it's a great deal... just don't expect a Savile Row level of bespoke. I never had a suit from Chan but from pics I've seen here (the infamous Shanghai thread) and what I've heard, Yao might do a better, cleaner look than they do, but I can't confirm. Chan's shirt however is very nice... I like rigid collars and cuffs, and they did a good job of making it the style I was looking for.

    3.5 inches... it was the widest Gordon would 'recommend' I go (he is opinionated). I'm 5'11'' if it's scale you're trying to figure out.


    Svenn,

    I think for a first bespoke suit of a new tailor, it look pretty good.
    A mid-hi price SR suit cost GBP2,000 or USD3,000. I think it is not fair to compare a product just about a quarter price. In fact, I will think is a SR suit wroth 3 time more than an Yao suit.
     
  16. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    ... I never had a suit from Chan but from pics I've seen here (the infamous Shanghai thread) and what I've heard, Yao might do a better, cleaner look than they do, but I can't confirm. Chan's shirt however is very nice... I like rigid collars and cuffs, and they did a good job of making it the style I was looking for. ...
    Fwiw, here's a pic of my Chan suit, from the HK team (I'm on the right). I think they did a spectacular job. I've showed it to some guys irl who "use" the much more expensive Italian and English tailors and the one criticism they could come up with in terms of fit was that the shoulders could be more extended by about 1/8" in the front (not the back): [​IMG] This jacket is also made with shirt sleeves and completely unpadded/unroped shoulders, which I believe you wrote elsewhere that you're seeking. The sleeve has some ripples, but that's due entirely to my pose (shoulders pulled back a bit). If I stood in the robot pose, the sleeves would be perfectly clean. They really are gorgeous. I need to get my camera fixed so I can take my own shots. This was taken at a wedding. Btw, my brother on the left is in a Hugo Boss suit, which probably cost about the same as the Chan suit.
     
  17. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Looks great Svenn! I was in Hong Kong back in April and had both Chan and Gordon Yao make me a suit, giving both tailors the same brief. I wanted very natural shoulders and very light canvass on both. As it turnout the Chan suit came out much better then Gordon Yaos. Even after asking Gordon to soften the shoulders at the first fitting, it is still too rigid for my liking. Patrick Chu at Chan however was more approachable at my request. Willing to make the shoulders with very little padding and using the lightest canvass. For those that prefers a more structural suit, Yao is still very good value.
    I will try to post some pics when I get a chance.
     
  18. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    ^Thanks all. I had my initial misgivings with Yao because I didn't get the perfect armscye I wanted, and there was a fairly major problem in the hips/small of my back... but now that I've 'broken in' the suit more I'm actually fairly pleased with it. And at $700 it's a great deal... just don't expect a Savile Row level of bespoke. I never had a suit from Chan but from pics I've seen here (the infamous Shanghai thread) and what I've heard, Yao might do a better, cleaner look than they do, but I can't confirm. Chan's shirt however is very nice... I like rigid collars and cuffs, and they did a good job of making it the style I was looking for.

    From these pics and the ones you posted in another thread, I think it's a pretty good result for your first commission with him. Just curious: why did you get your shirt from WWC instead of Yao?


    I will try to post some pics when I get a chance.

    Please do; that would make a great comparison thread.
     
  19. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    Patrick Chu at Chan however was more approachable at my request. Willing to make the shoulders with very little padding and using the lightest canvass.

    This jacket is also made with shirt sleeves and completely unpadded/unroped shoulders, which I believe you wrote elsewhere that you're seeking.

    Good to know... but can Chan do a very high, fitted armscye? That's the main thing I want, but I know it takes a lot of extra labor and time. Yao didn't seem like he'd done it before, and the armholes are still several cm below my natural armpit. Also, are the 'Neapolitan pleats' in the upper sleeve, as you described, actually ironed-in there such that's it's a very mobile sleevehead? or is it just decoration?

    That's great about unpadded shoulders, I thought I read though that Chan couldn't do completely unpadded?
     
  20. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Good to know... but can Chan do a very high, fitted armscye? That's the main thing I want, but I know it takes a lot of extra labor and time. Yao didn't seem like he'd done it before, and the armholes are still several cm below my natural armpit. Also, are the 'Neapolitan pleats' in the upper sleeve, as you described, actually ironed-in there such that's it's a very mobile sleevehead? or is it just decoration?

    That's great about unpadded shoulders, I thought I read though that Chan couldn't do completely unpadded?


    I think alot of tailors ae hesitant to do totally unpadded shoulders because some epople have sloped shoulders or what not and not correcting it would almost defeat the purpose of bespoke.
     

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