Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Gaziano & Girling hit London town

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by bengal-stripe, Sep 22, 2006.

  1. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,462
    Likes Received:
    887
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Location:
    London, UK
    Today, Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling presented their collection for the very first time.

    The majority of the shoes on show were the ready-to-wear / made-to-order range, all the 33 models which can be found in the catalogue and on the web. The shoes look in the flesh (or is it "in the hide") much nicer than on the pictures. They are absolutely exquisitely made.

    The secret of their bespoke look is the fact that they are only factory-made up to a certain point, and then Dean Girling finishes the shoes by hand. For those who care about a shapely waist (in a shoe that is), G&G shoes leave even John Lobb's (Paris) "Bootmaker" with extra fat around the midriff. Same thing applies to the heels, they have a much smaller footprint than other ready-to-wear shoes.

    G&G RTW offer a quite wide selection of leathers (although not as wide as the bespoke selection, where the choice is literally hundreds). Some are crust (unfinished) leathers that get died on the shoe, while others are aniline died.

    There was very little of bespoke samples on show, I believe only two - plus a few samples demonstrating the various production stages (lasted, welted, sole halfway stitched).

    There are negotiations with retailers going on. Hopefully G&G shoe will be sold in your friendly neighbourhood store before long.

    I wish Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling all the best for the future. They must be, indeed, a couple of brave men to venture into dress shoes, in these days of sneakers and trainers.

    P.S. I placed an order for the "Cannes" (Venetian loafer with hand-stitched apron) in dark blue.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  2. LARon

    LARon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,188
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2006
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Ooooh, goody, goody; now you've gotten me all excited. Can't wait for my appointed hour in San Francisco. Thanks for the info.

    Do you know if they're able to offer the same bespoke creations he designed at/for EG, or might he be precluded from doing so?
     


  3. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    3,144
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2004
    Location:
    San Francisco
    They gave GG the customer lasts, and there is no copyright on most of the shoe designs. A quarter brogue is a quarter brogue, from Lobb or GG.

    I recall that he was reluctant to make Cleverley's elastic sided slip-ons when he was at EG, though I believe he did make at least one pair, and there may be EG designs that he prefers to stay away from. But he should be able to make just about anything else.
     


  4. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    18,647
    Likes Received:
    102
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2004
    Location:
    Lian Yu
    Considering they have a RTW model called the "Hove" which is the spitting image of the Dover, the iconic EG shoe, I don't think that IP issues are going to bedevil their bespoke creations.
     


  5. Artisan Fan

    Artisan Fan Suitsupply-sider

    Messages:
    32,350
    Likes Received:
    154
    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2006
    And they look terrific in the pics!

    I got my catalog in the mail today. Very well done and high quality printing. First class act so far..
     


  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,462
    Likes Received:
    887
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Location:
    London, UK
    Considering they have a RTW model called the "Hove" which is the spitting image of the Dover, the iconic EG shoe.
    Actually the "Hove" is (deliberately?) different from the "Dover".

    Dover has five eyelets, Hove has four.
    Therefore the lower part of the quarters in the Hove are more triangular cut away and the shoe shows more vamp.
    Dover has a full heel counter, Hove has a faux one. It is just a row of stitching, not a proper heel cap.

    Hove is the "missing link" between the two EG's styles Dover and Ecton:
    Dover: 5 eyelets, Hove: 4 eyelets, Ecton: 3 eyelets
    Dover: least vamp showing, Hove: medium, Ecton: most vamp
    Dover: heel counter, Hove: blind counter, Ecton: no counter.

    Side by side:
    [​IMG]

    EG "Dover"

    [​IMG]

    G&G "Hove"
     


  7. LARon

    LARon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,188
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2006
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Does that mean he could make these?
    [​IMG]
     


  8. LARon

    LARon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,188
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2006
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    And these?

    (does anyone know the name of either of these pairs?)
    [​IMG]
     


  9. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    4,462
    Likes Received:
    887
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Location:
    London, UK
    Both shoes are bespoke.
    But G&G has a version of the first design as readyto-wear,
    called "Hayes"
     


  10. LARon

    LARon Senior member

    Messages:
    1,188
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2006
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    They also have a RTW version of the second pair, called Wiltshire, however, neither of the RTW looks as sleek as the bespokes they're patterned after, wouldn't you agree?

    Also, the Hayes appears to have a different medallion than the bespoke model. In bespoke, can both be wholecuts (as the second pair appears to be)?
     


  11. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

    Messages:
    8,534
    Likes Received:
    267
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2006
    Location:
    Wait, you smell that?
    How does one go about finding out where G&G will be having its trunk shows? Anyone know if there will be one in the L.A. area any time soon?
     


  12. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

    Messages:
    10,876
    Likes Received:
    36
    Joined:
    Mar 31, 2006
    Location:
    Back in Black
    It's on their web site, which is listed, among other places, in the _other_ G&G London trunk-show thread. :wink:
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by