French Tailoring Thread (e.g. Camps de Luca, Cifonelli, Smalto and etc.)

[Newcomer]

Not a bad idea.

Uncertain of sizing, but I guess crazier things have happened?

 

[poorsod]



It's not too late to do that.

The store on rue de Sevres keeps the old buttons in the back, at least that's what they said last year when I visited. If you are still in Paris consider checking out the buttons to see if you like them.

Not a bad idea.

Uncertain of sizing, but I guess crazier things have happened?

The Forestiere fits large. I've tried several variations but so far none were flattering on me. I suggest you try one on in real life.

 

[TheFoo]

Will Berluti make a Forestiere with all the labeling and buttons as if still Arnys?

 

[bry2000]

You really need to try on the Forestiere before buying. It fits really large. I went down 2 sizes from my normal size and it was still too big/unflattering. I like the idea of the jacket, but not the execution.

 

[Dandy Wonka]

I have read that they are all large apart from the double-sided cashmere one (which I got). That one is designed by Sartori based on the other one and cut down.

 

[belgiumdapper]

I'm following this thread since a while without taking part as I'm not much advised as you all are.
I'm thinking about the commision of a first bespoke suit for my wedding. I guess that some of you will recommand me to try Camps de Luca for their style and quality.
I saw a picture of their work showing some machine sewings while I always heard it was fully handmade. Are they still providing the same quality level or should I better try another option ? (I live in Bruxelles)

 

[Griffindork]

^I assume that they use a sewing machine for the long seams. Some pieces I would want handsewn. Others I wouldn't really care. If it is important to you then you might just ask them. I'm sure they would be happy to explain what they do and why they do it.

 

[Kuro]

http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2013/08/is-a-bespoke-suit-made-entirely-by-hand-reader-question.html

 

[greger]

Nowadays, so many say hand guided can mean hand sewn, instead of put in a jig and then push a button. Hand guided allows any curve to be sewn. Jigged follows the jig, which, may not fit the person. I wonder how many will use a thimble for all the sewing? If you pay more it might be possible to find someone who will who is worth it.

 

[belgiumdapper]

Thanks much for your answers, the article on Permanent Style is indeed really interesting.
If I'm right the hand-stitching of the canvas and lapels are the most important part and make the difference with the ready to wear. Is it true ?

 

[add911_11]

The above picture is showing a hand padded canvass but machines padded lapel.

Big no no for me...especially paying for that sort of bespoke price tags....

 

[EliodA]



Thanks much for your answers, the article on Permanent Style is indeed really interesting.
If I'm right the hand-stitching of the canvas and lapels are the most important part and make the difference with the ready to wear. Is it true ?

No. There's plenty of hand stitched RTW and machine made bespoke.

 

[dirnelli]

The opposition between handmade and machine made is articifial, it's like saying that a novel written on a computer is not as worthy as one written with a goose quill.

 

[SimonC]



The opposition between handmade and machine made is articifial, it's like saying that a novel written on a computer is not as worthy as one written with a goose quill.

It's a romantic notion. There are places on a garment where the hand is trying to emulate the consistency of a machine.

Equally, there are places on a garment where significant sums have been spent to develop machines that can execute a stitch with the characteristics previously only available by hand-sewing. Not better or worse, just a economy of scale which may lead to a more affordable garment.

What is left between the two is an aesthetic preference, as you yourself acknowledge by adding hand-seen buttonieres. As someone else once said, "imperfection is perfection".

 

[VRaivio]



The above picture is showing a hand padded canvass but machines padded lapel.

Big no no for me...especially paying for that sort of bespoke price tags....

...then you should have a look at what Oxxford Clothes makes in America. Hand-padded lapels take around an hour to make at least, if the maker is careful, and it's boring work -- I guess this explains the markup.