Feedback on first bespoke suit?

[dieworkwear]

I pointed out the puddling in the final fitting and he said he could correct it, but this may cause pulling/puddling in another area. Is this worth the risk?

Hm, I'm not sure if we're talking about the same issue. I wouldn't describe this as pooling.

At the back of your trousers, you can see how excess material is collapsing under your seat, also causing the back of the trouser leg to ripple. In the past, I've had this issue corrected by shortening the back rise and letting out the crotch to compensate. However, again, I am not a tailor and would leave it to the tailor. Here's an example what I mean:

Here you can see the trousers falling cleanly at the back. These are fisttail trousers held up by braces, which helps.

But here you can see the same thing for belted trousers. Not as clean, but pretty clean.

It's harder to get a pair of slim trousers to drape well. Your trousers look quite slim.

If I'm being honest, if a tailor delivered that suit to you, I would recommend just finding a different tailor or going off the rack. More than delivering a suit that technically fits well, I think a tailor should deliver something that looks very good. For $750, I don't think that's a bad deal. But you seem to have a standard build. Instead of paying $1,500 for two suits that don't look great, or eventually $2,250 for three suits, of which only one looks great, I think you can just buy a good ready to wear suit. Depending on where you live, The Armoury and No Man Walks Alone both sell really nice models. I think the cuts and proportions are better looking, and you can probably get them adjusted locally to get them to fit right.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Could you explain what you mean by "there is still drape"?

The pants aren’t clinging to your legs.

 

[VinceCompost]

It looks good from the front, but less so from the back; both the pants and jacket seem to have some issues with pulling. Maybe the jacket has been pinched too much at the waist (only at the back; like I said, it looks great from the front). Although, as you mentioned, the issue might be worse in the photos than IRL.

Not that it's a major problem anyway, and as others have said, you got a good deal for the money. But DWW's reasoning that, because there's nothing too unusual about your body, an RTW adjusted by a tailor might work out better (and cheaper), seems pretty sound to me. Bespoke is certainly fun, but if your build is not to far from standard anyway, RTW might not be such a bad option in the end.

 

[othertravel]

Was it true bespoke, or made to measure?

It looks like they didn’t account for the uneven shoulders. Looks decent for $750, but some fixes needed to make it look really good.

 

[thesupremegrape]

Hm, I'm not sure if we're talking about the same issue. I wouldn't describe this as pooling.

At the back of your trousers, you can see how excess material is collapsing under your seat, also causing the back of the trouser leg to ripple. In the past, I've had this issue corrected by shortening the back rise and letting out the crotch to compensate. However, again, I am not a tailor and would leave it to the tailor. Here's an example what I mean:

View attachment 1445283


Here you can see the trousers falling cleanly at the back. These are fisttail trousers held up by braces, which helps.

View attachment 1445284

But here you can see the same thing for belted trousers. Not as clean, but pretty clean.


View attachment 1445285

It's harder to get a pair of slim trousers to drape well. Your trousers look quite slim.

If I'm being honest, if a tailor delivered that suit to you, I would recommend just finding a different tailor or going off the rack. More than delivering a suit that technically fits well, I think a tailor should deliver something that looks very good. For $750, I don't think that's a bad deal. But you seem to have a standard build. Instead of paying $1,500 for two suits that don't look great, or eventually $2,250 for three suits, of which only one looks great, I think you can just buy a good ready to wear suit. Depending on where you live, The Armoury and No Man Walks Alone both sell really nice models. I think the cuts and proportions are better looking, and you can probably get them adjusted locally to get them to fit right.

Ah I see, I'll try ready to wear in the future to see how it fits, thanks!

 

[thesupremegrape]

It looks good from the front, but less so from the back; both the pants and jacket seem to have some issues with pulling. Maybe the jacket has been pinched too much at the waist (only at the back; like I said, it looks great from the front). Although, as you mentioned, the issue might be worse in the photos than IRL.

Not that it's a major problem anyway, and as others have said, you got a good deal for the money. But DWW's reasoning that, because there's nothing too unusual about your body, an RTW adjusted by a tailor might work out better (and cheaper), seems pretty sound to me. Bespoke is certainly fun, but if your build is not to far from standard anyway, RTW might not be such a bad option in the end.

I do have quite a higher than normal drop (9 inches), can RTW accommodate for this?

 

[thesupremegrape]

Was it true bespoke, or made to measure?

It looks like they didn’t account for the uneven shoulders. Looks decent for $750, but some fixes needed to make it look really good.

Pretty sure it was bespoke. I made all the design decisions and there was a basted fitting.

 

[Texasmade]

Pretty sure it was bespoke. I made all the design decisions and there was a basted fitting.

This can still be done through MtM.

 

[thesupremegrape]

This can still be done through MtM.

Then how can I differentiate?

 

[Despos]

If you want a third or fourth opinion I don’t think this suit came out so bad. Do not think you will do as well with RTW.
The workmanship is entry level but equal to the price paid. Actually I don’t know how any tailor shop can make a jacket and trouser for 500.00 and keep the lights on. If you buy decent supplies, lining, canvass, trimmings it runs well close to 100.00 or more.
Hard to judge the length because of the different views. Jacket looks short from the front view and the side and back views are taken too close to get an idea of the length. Judging from the front view Would make the next one an inch longer and lower the button to be even with the top of the ticket pocket.
Front view makes your left shoulder look lower but you look lower on the right from the back view. I think they did adjust for a low shoulder but I don’t know which one it is.
They got a few things right that count and a few things can be improved. Like cleaning up under the arms on the back and the back of the trouser.
Good advice to wear it and see how it holds up before committing to the next one.

 

[thesupremegrape]

If you want a third or fourth opinion I don’t think this suit came out so bad. Do not think you will do as well with RTW.
The workmanship is entry level but equal to the price paid. Actually I don’t know how any tailor shop can make a jacket and trouser for 500.00 and keep the lights on. If you buy decent supplies, lining, canvass, trimmings it runs well close to 100.00 or more.
Hard to judge the length because of the different views. Jacket looks short from the front view and the side and back views are taken too close to get an idea of the length. Judging from the front view Would make the next one an inch longer and lower the button to be even with the top of the ticket pocket.
Front view makes your left shoulder look lower but you look lower on the right from the back view. I think they did adjust for a low shoulder but I don’t know which one it is.
They got a few things right that count and a few things can be improved. Like cleaning up under the arms on the back and the back of the trouser.
Good advice to wear it and see how it holds up before committing to the next one.

Very good point, thank you. I agree that for the next suit I would prefer a slightly longer jacket and will probably do that. The tailor did say one of my shoulders was lower so he said he would adjust for that, but I don't remember which one he said was lower.

After all the comments it seems that the back of the trouser is the biggest issue. I'll see if I can have something done to fix that. As for under the arm what the shop assistant said was that he left some extra fabric under the arms for mobility. He said he could remove that and make it cleaner but doing so would make the suit a lot less mobile.

I'll wear this suit for a few months and see how it goes, and accordingly decide whether to go RTW or to get another suit from here, but make sure to look out for these errors (it was my first suit so I missed out a few things that I see now).

 

[Texasmade]

Then how can I differentiate?

Idk but the way I always understood it was in bespoke you would have your own individual pattern while MtM the suit would be adjusted off a block pattern.

 

[thesupremegrape]

Idk but the way I always understood it was in bespoke you would have your own individual pattern while MtM the suit would be adjusted off a block pattern.

Well I chose the fabric/pattern, so I guess it is bespoke.

 

[Texasmade]

Well I chose the fabric/pattern, so I guess it is bespoke.

Permanent Style

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear

www.permanentstyle.com

I’m referring to the paper pattern that is used to cut the fabric.

 

[thesupremegrape]

Permanent Style

Suit style 1: The difference between bespoke, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear

www.permanentstyle.com

I’m referring to the paper pattern that is used to cut the fabric.

Ah I guess I can't say then