1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

EXTREME ERECT ALTERATIONS

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by a tailor, Aug 13, 2012.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    in the tutorial "balance explained" we learned that an erect posture needed a longer front and a shorter back.
    ready to wear garments need to be altered to accommodate this posture.
    in figure A this is the usual alteration when the problem shows only at the top of the back.
    its often just the effect of the head and neck being in an erect position.

    figure B. is used when the extreme posture effects the entire back. the sleeves are removed,
    the collar is removed, except where it joins the lapel. the shoulders are taken apart and,
    the lining also. the entire top of the back is cut shorter see the dotted line.in some cases
    the dotted cutting line is angled like the line in figure A.
    then the whole thing must be reassembled. thats a job that takes a great deal of time.

    figure C. when the shoulders and upper back are fine, but from the shoulder blade on down
    is the problem then we just drop the back down. the arrows show the movement. the side seams
    are opened, and the lining as well. the dotted line on top show the new position of the back.
    we can see how the front is now longer than the back. the dotted line at the bottom shows that the coat
    hangs lower. that is then shortened to match the bottom of the front.

    figure D. sometimes extreme alterations, shortening from the top or dropping the back, can cause
    complications. we learned this, remember on "taking in a jacket sides" taking in too much
    on the sides caused diagonal lines of strain.
    the curved arrows show the strain that can occur. to release the strain we do this.
    the under arm side seam is opened thats the one from the armhole to the pocket.
    the top of the pocket is disassembled. that wedge of cloth is cut off and the top of the side body
    is cut off at the top to match. the under arm is re sewn and the pocket is remade. again much much time.






    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Knowledge is King

    Knowledge is King Senior member

    Messages:
    618
    Joined:
    May 18, 2007
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Interesting -- thanks for the write up.

    You should edit the title of the thread to include the word "posture"....otherwise it sort of looks like you might be trying to sell superpowered enhancement pills
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2012
  3. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    This applies if your jacket has a short front/long back for more that 4 hours
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    do you think it would be very profitable?
     
  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    

    yea it has gotten rather uncomfortable lately.
     
  6. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

    Messages:
    4,051
    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2011
    Try setting up a pair of bathtubs in your front yard to watch the sunset with your significant other. I believe that helps with the erect posture issues.
     
  7. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT YOU GUYS ARE TALKING ABOUT.
     
  8. GHo

    GHo Senior member

    Messages:
    942
    Joined:
    May 31, 2011
    Location:
    Hawkeye State
    

    [​IMG]
     
  9. RockyTop

    RockyTop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    79
    Joined:
    May 23, 2012
    I would suggest a high rise pant
     
  10. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    2,852
    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    i've got to get those tubs. does the set include the sun?
    or is it the deluxe edition?
     
  11. TonyThe Tailor

    TonyThe Tailor Senior member

    Messages:
    470
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2006
    Location:
    Charleston West by God Virginia
    We had a client one time that we made a sheath for to hold it in place.
    As a side note, my father said to my mother, "his wife didn't talk at all" to which my mother replied, "she probably has vocal chord damage".
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2012

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by