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losrockets

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But I'll tell you what, their pics from the late 70s and early 80s could be in a lookbook right now and no one would bat an eye. Daryl has a striped camp collar, John has a striped band collar.

UIEXZ2MJXC7EJ657LRPDRXA4C4.jpg

Agree w/ the pic but I'm partial to how the xx sampled this song in 'On Hold'!
 

Epaulet

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Hey guys,

I wrote this for our newsletter today. Like everyone else, I'm distressed about most things in the news lately. But I'm proud that we can have a positive impact in a very real way. A lot of good jobs and livelihoods depend on brands like us and customers like you....

unnamed.jpeg


Your Orders Support the American Dream
With our Factory Finds promo in full swing, I'd typically be posting a video of our favorite swatches and showing pics. But I'd like to take a moment to discuss something more important today.

Last month, I had the opportunity to sit in on a meeting at the Hickey Freeman factory. The topic was labor, and the ongoing search for it.

For over 120 years, they've been responsible for sponsoring thousands of immigrants on their journey to the United States. People looking for opportunity and a new life. At the factory, they found a skilled trade, good wages, and a rewarding career. And that process continues to this day.

Today, there are 23 languages spoken at the Hickey Freeman factory. The majority of their staff are first-generation immigrants.

Their latest initiative is to sponsor the Afghan Refugee Resettlement Project. This is a lifeboat to a better future for these refugees and their loved ones. Through training and hard work, they'll gain a solid unionized career, and a brand new life. Combined with other immigrants from all of the the world, this incredibly diverse group of craftspeople are more than just a team.

They're a family.

I believe that this is the best of us. This is the American Dream.

Whether you've ordered in the past, you're buying now, or you're considering something in the future, just know that your purchase means something.

It's not simply more money for a billionaire or a huge faceless corporation. It's not buying the lowest cost goods with the worst labor compensation. With all of the horrible practices of the "fashion industry" as a whole, this is a remarkably virtuous counterpoint to the rampant waste and abuse.

This is the best Mens tailored clothing in the United States. Built to stand the test of time. Made by skilled craftspeople from all over the world who are personally invested in and rewarded by their work.

It's not cheap, but it's worth every penny. When you order one of these garments, your money actively supports the American Dream for people who desire it most.

And of course you get a world-class custom suit, sportcoat, trouser, or casual jacket. It doesn't get much better than that.

From the bottom of our hearts: thank you for your support!

Eva Kuhle, Pak Ming-Hau, & the RTC / Hickey Freeman Team
 

scurvyfreedman

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Hey guys,

I wrote this for our newsletter today. Like everyone else, I'm distressed about most things in the news lately. But I'm proud that we can have a positive impact in a very real way. A lot of good jobs and livelihoods depend on brands like us and customers like you....

View attachment 1814722

Your Orders Support the American Dream
With our Factory Finds promo in full swing, I'd typically be posting a video of our favorite swatches and showing pics. But I'd like to take a moment to discuss something more important today.

Last month, I had the opportunity to sit in on a meeting at the Hickey Freeman factory. The topic was labor, and the ongoing search for it.

For over 120 years, they've been responsible for sponsoring thousands of immigrants on their journey to the United States. People looking for opportunity and a new life. At the factory, they found a skilled trade, good wages, and a rewarding career. And that process continues to this day.

Today, there are 23 languages spoken at the Hickey Freeman factory. The majority of their staff are first-generation immigrants.

Their latest initiative is to sponsor the Afghan Refugee Resettlement Project. This is a lifeboat to a better future for these refugees and their loved ones. Through training and hard work, they'll gain a solid unionized career, and a brand new life. Combined with other immigrants from all of the the world, this incredibly diverse group of craftspeople are more than just a team.

They're a family.

I believe that this is the best of us. This is the American Dream.

Whether you've ordered in the past, you're buying now, or you're considering something in the future, just know that your purchase means something.

It's not simply more money for a billionaire or a huge faceless corporation. It's not buying the lowest cost goods with the worst labor compensation. With all of the horrible practices of the "fashion industry" as a whole, this is a remarkably virtuous counterpoint to the rampant waste and abuse.

This is the best Mens tailored clothing in the United States. Built to stand the test of time. Made by skilled craftspeople from all over the world who are personally invested in and rewarded by their work.

It's not cheap, but it's worth every penny. When you order one of these garments, your money actively supports the American Dream for people who desire it most.

And of course you get a world-class custom suit, sportcoat, trouser, or casual jacket. It doesn't get much better than that.

From the bottom of our hearts: thank you for your support!

Eva Kuhle, Pak Ming-Hau, & the RTC / Hickey Freeman Team

As a union lawyer, I also want to chime in that the workers at Hickey Freeman are organized. They are members of Workers United, Rochester Regional Joint Board. The plant has been organized for decades, first by the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union (ACTWU)-perhaps even one of its predecessors, then into Union of Needle International Trade Employees, when ACTWU merged with the International Ladies Garment Workers Union (ILGWU), my great-grandmother's union, then UNITE merged with HERE, the Hotel and Restaurant Employees. But, many clothing and textile workers felt they weren't well represented in the merger, because the Hotel workers made up such a large percentage of the members, so a lot of locals left to form Workers United, which affiliated with The Service Employees International Union (SEIU). All that labor history aside, even though Eva mentioned that the employees are mostly first generation immigrants, they have employer paid health care, a good wage, and negotiated work rules to protect them.

I have a lot of tailored clothing, most of which I haven't worn in 2 1/2 years, but if I needed something, I would definitely go through Eva and Epaulet*. I'll probably buy a sport jacket in the late fall for next spring.

* I have multiple Hickey Freeman suits and sport jackets from before Epaulet was associated with them. My favorite is a 100% cashmere navy sport jacket that I wear throughout the winter. I found it at the dearly departed Syms for about $250 about a decade ago.
 

Epaulet

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As a union lawyer, I also want to chime in that the workers at Hickey Freeman are organized. They are members of Workers United, Rochester Regional Joint Board. The plant has been organized for decades, first by the Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union (ACTWU)-perhaps even one of its predecessors, then into Union of Needle International Trade Employees, when ACTWU merged with the International Ladies Garment Workers Union (ILGWU), my great-grandmother's union, then UNITE merged with HERE, the Hotel and Restaurant Employees. But, many clothing and textile workers felt they weren't well represented in the merger, because the Hotel workers made up such a large percentage of the members, so a lot of locals left to form Workers United, which affiliated with The Service Employees International Union (SEIU). All that labor history aside, even though Eva mentioned that the employees are mostly first generation immigrants, they have employer paid health care, a good wage, and negotiated work rules to protect them.

I have a lot of tailored clothing, most of which I haven't worn in 2 1/2 years, but if I needed something, I would definitely go through Eva and Epaulet*. I'll probably buy a sport jacket in the late fall for next spring.

* I have multiple Hickey Freeman suits and sport jackets from before Epaulet was associated with them. My favorite is a 100% cashmere navy sport jacket that I wear throughout the winter. I found it at the dearly departed Syms for about $250 about a decade ago.

Thanks so much for posting! Yeah it's a really wonderful situation over in Rochester, and they have a great workforce.

I can say the same for Individualized Shirts... their workers are all unionized as well. It was UNITE-HERE a few years ago, but I'm not sure if anything changed. The staff is largely from Puerto Rico, Dominican Republic, and the Azores Islands. Largely 1st and 2nd generation immigrants from those areas.

Here in Los Angeles, there's scant unionization at any of the workshops, but we're able to check in personally several times a week. Our sewers for items like the Doyle & Rivet are all making a good living from it. Like us, they keep their overhead under control.
 

Epaulet

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Oh and we've gotten a lot of questions: we'll be offering trousers from these fabrics next Thursday. I know that a lot of guys aren't ready to re-enter the suit/sportcoat world, so hopefully a new pair or two of pants will still be a great way to participate.

We'll have really good pricing on these, with the opening rate at $225. It's within spitting distance of where we were with Hertling, but these are totally MTO and can come with a finished hem, your button choice, and all that good stuff.
 

SteveL91

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Just out of curiosity, what happens to the fabric lengths that don't get purchased and made-up into a garment? Do you ever sell them as is?
 

Epaulet

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Just out of curiosity, what happens to the fabric lengths that don't get purchased and made-up into a garment? Do you ever sell them as is?

The fabrics are actually owned by Hickey, not us... so they hold onto them. They might offer them to other accounts or sell them to a "jobber" who just comes in and buys the shorter lengths every season.
 

L.I.T.

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PLINTH & SCRATCH UPROCK COACH JACKET IN
WAX COTTON/NYLON POPLIN PRE-SALE

Hi guys, Ming here! Eva recommended that I post here about the jacket I've been working on for my own brand Plinth & Scratch since earlier January. This is the first jacket from my brand and something I'm really proud of since it takes a lot of perseverance to make something from scratch in the garment industry in Los Angeles, CA. I was going to release it in Spring but development delays have pushed me back to a September 1st launch to coincide with a magazine feature. So I'm doing a pre-sale instead with a discount until then. The jackets are all done and ready to ship but the price will go up for launch in September.

Th Uprock Coach Jacket is inspired by the club jackets of 80's and 90's b-boy crews and hip hop icons. I took that classic coach jacket shape and gave it a more minimal and elevated look with buttons instead of the standard snaps, functional placket cuffs over the usual elastic at the sleeves and a clean bottom hem without the drawcord. The 5oz Japan Amaterrance Mills Wax Cotton/Nylon Poplin is what drew me most to making this jacket. It's lightweight, water proof, and doesn't have that overly sticky feel that most wax canvases have. The jacket is also fully lined with a subtly printed herringbone liner as well to give the jacket a little bit more body and to keep skin contact to a minimum from the wax fabric.

I only made a small run of 30 jackets from size S-XXL. You can get your usual Epaulet size for example if you take a 40 a L should fit you and vice versa.

Available in Magnum Olive and Cali Gold.
(Sign up for the newsletter for an additional 10% off if you're a new customer)
Uprock Coach Jacket Pre-Sale Link

Green Jacket1.jpg
Green Jacket2.jpg
Green Jacket5.jpg
Green Jacket6.jpg
Tan Jacket2.jpg
Tan Jacket5.jpg
Tan Jacket6.jpg
 

Epaulet

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THE EZ PANT COMETH!

They finish tomorrow afternoon. We'll have open stock going live at 10AM EST via the newsletter, and we'll look to ship every single preorder by Wednesday. Thanks again for bearing with us on these.. they'll be well worth the wait!

I do have some great news on our Rivet Chino project.. the "Tweed, Twill, and Space Dye" one that we just closed. Things are really quiet with LA production in late July, so it looks like we can fast track this one through. We were planning to ship end of August, but I'm pretty confident that we'll have it ready to go by mid-August. We'll check back as things develop.
 

Epaulet

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Hey guys!

We shipped out about 70% of the EZ pants yesterday. I'll have pretty much the entire balance done by the end of this week. Here's some snapshots of the different fabrics that we received and shipped...

Khaki Whisper Twill
Khaki whisper twill.jpg


Blaze Orange Ripstop
blaze orange.jpg


Air Force Wool Blend
Air Force Wool.jpg


Flat Dark Earth Ripstop
FDE Ripstop.jpg


Spruce Whisper Twill
Spruce Twill.jpg


Pewter Whisper Twill
Pewter Twill.jpg
 

Epaulet

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Crosspost.....
yuketen-yuki-matsuda-interview-1.jpg


The Styleforum Sessions Podcast Presents Yuki Matsuda of Yuketen & Monitaly

Hey guys!

This coming Sunday, I'll be interviewing Mr. Yuki Matsuda at his home. He's the director of Meg Company, which includes Yuketen, Monitaly, Chamula, and Epperson Mountaineering.

Yuki is a visionary and one of the most dynamic designers in the USA. He forges his own path without ever compromising on quality and artisanal craftsmanship.

If you guys have any questions that you'd like answered, please post them up here! We have an interview prepared, but we'll be asking select user-submitted queries at the end of the session. I can't guarantee that we'll ask all of the questions, but we'll try to get to as many as possible.

Thanks!
Eva from Epaulet
 

jms

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Very cool. I remember when you used to stock some of their items years ago. (I bought a few.) Not necessarily a question for the podcast, but I imagine you've maintained that relationship since? Looking forward to listening.
 

sartoria vacua

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Crosspost.....
yuketen-yuki-matsuda-interview-1.jpg


The Styleforum Sessions Podcast Presents Yuki Matsuda of Yuketen & Monitaly

Hey guys!

This coming Sunday, I'll be interviewing Mr. Yuki Matsuda at his home. He's the director of Meg Company, which includes Yuketen, Monitaly, Chamula, and Epperson Mountaineering.

Yuki is a visionary and one of the most dynamic designers in the USA. He forges his own path without ever compromising on quality and artisanal craftsmanship.

If you guys have any questions that you'd like answered, please post them up here! We have an interview prepared, but we'll be asking select user-submitted queries at the end of the session. I can't guarantee that we'll ask all of the questions, but we'll try to get to as many as possible.

Thanks!
Eva from Epaulet

wish i was in an interrogative way re yuketen to load up your interview deck ---- i just hope he stays in the game and keeps doing what he's doing.

if yuketen had a thread on styfo (*effing A, check it out - it does), i'd be one of the dudes posting pics of his 10+ yuketen moccs. a ca. 2011 inventory stockroom collab (that blog was my gateway to the whole #menswear moment) was my first and still gets 90% of my entire rotation time, with 5 resoles already notched - cool kid treads have just stayed in the box forever to where i just end up unwinding them from never wearing (like epaulet's former GAT offerings - i still get "are those GATs you posted four years ago and show sold still available by chance?" styfo PMs fwiw).

my life is so much simpler and every day goes to 11 thanks to mr. matsuda!

4CBC5BB8-1817-4C18-BBA0-8A9723E9FE06.jpeg
 

Epaulet

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I refuse to believe anyone other than Eva could have written this sign.
View attachment 1817656

LOL all too true

I remember being out in Venice a few years back and they had a sign which said...

"You say no to ratchet Poke, Juicy J can't"

Had a cut out pic of Juicy J and a Poke bowl and the whole deal. I didn't take a photo, but I'll always have my memories
 

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