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ENGINEERED GARMENTS FALL/WINTER 2020

blackcheer

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Another season, another person finds the fanciest variation of the work shirt at the highest price and incorrectly deduces that all of the work shirts for the season are being sold at this price

I was really surprised/disappointed in this one as well. Would have been an insta buy for me at standard workshirt prices but $300+ USD seems a little absurd.
It's getting real easy to stop buying EG now that a 100% cotton work shirt has somehow increased to $428 CAD MSRP
 

BlakeRVA

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Another season, another person finds the fanciest variation of the work shirt at the highest price and incorrectly deduces that all of the work shirts for the season are being sold at this price
I've been an EG loyalist for a decade, but the brand deserves certain criticisms. How can Work Shirt's cost $216, $276, or $324 in the same season? It's the same pattern, details, construction, material, and presumably labor, so why the disparity? The fabrics aren't custom and occassionally you'll find other popular brands using them. So, how do we justify paying such a premium for something that just isn't?

I've made several other critiques of Engineered Garments (steadily rising prices, increased use of synthetic blends, uninspired/rehashed designs), but I've been pondering recently if it's simply a declining brand. It sounds idiotic because the brand is the most widely distributed it's ever been (Mr Porter, SSENSE, Bergdorf Goodman etc.), but it just doesn't seem to have the same "soul" or diehard fanbase it once had. I've found myself less energized each season and I can't help but notice the significant decline in Styleforum activity around EG threads might be a sign others feel similarly. Perhaps I'm an alarmist overly reminiscent of the past, but I can't help but wonder. Screenshot_20201025-230050_Chrome.jpg
 
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grayfox

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Another season, another person finds the fanciest variation of the work shirt at the highest price and incorrectly deduces that all of the work shirts for the season are being sold at this price
Neither of us stated that 'all of the work shirts' are at that price.

And what makes this exceptionally expensive version the 'fanciest'? Yes it's one of the better patterns this season but that doesn't justify such an increase in cost.

Moving on...
 

blackcheer

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The material used is a determining factor in the price. This was discussed a season or few ago concerning a floral embroidery work shirt, and again another season or few ago concerning a floral embroidery western shirt. Not sure why the material for the work shirt currently under scrutiny is so expensive. Would be nice to see in person

I don’t think the popularity of EG can be gauged by the popularity of a styleforum thread. The significant drop in activity on styleforum correlates with an increase in the use of instagram, [email protected]!led and other social media and resale platforms

We’re living under late capitalism during a global pandemic amidst mass riots with the corners of the earth ablaze. It accordingly makes sense that the price of designer threads has increased. It’s not unique to EG. Folks are complaining about this on many other long-running threads (such as NC). And perhaps coincidentally not on newer threads (such as EK)

EG continues to surprise and impress me with their subtle shifts from season to season. Can’t agree that they’re “uninspired” or their designs are “rehashed”. I commend their efforts even if they don’t always hit the mark for me. Seems like it takes time for their designs to settle with people too. While folks had initially complained about the recent season that used custom Woolrich Woolen Mills wool when it had first dropped, folks are now fondly reminiscing about it and talking about its pieces as holy grails

@BlakeRVA don’t forget to charge your phone

I've been an EG loyalist for a decade, but the brand deserves certain criticisms. How can Work Shirt's cost $216, $276, or $324 in the same season? It's the same pattern, details, construction, material, and presumably labor, so why the disparity? The fabrics aren't custom and occassionally you'll find other popular brands using them. So, how do we justify paying such a premium for something that just isn't?

I've made several other critiques of Engineered Garments (steadily rising prices, increased use of synthetic blends, uninspired/rehashed designs), but I've been pondering recently if it's simply a declining brand. It sounds idiotic because the brand is the most widely distributed it's ever been (Mr Porter, SSENSE, Bergdorf Goodman etc.), but it just doesn't seem to have the same "soul" or diehard fanbase it once had. I've found myself less energized each season and I can't help but notice the significant decline in Styleforum activity around EG threads might be a sign others feel similarly. Perhaps I'm an alarmist overly reminiscent of the past, but I can't help but wonder. View attachment 1484584
 
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blackcheer

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Didn’t mean to ruffle your feathers there

Neither of us stated that 'all of the work shirts' are at that price.

And what makes this exceptionally expensive version the 'fanciest'? Yes it's one of the better patterns this season but that doesn't justify such an increase in cost.

Moving on...
 

London

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Starting buying EG in the mid 00's and was a hardcore fan for about a decade. I'll buy a piece every once in a while but I feel you @BlakeRVA. As they reach economies of scale the prices have gone up. There is a lot of rehash. It use to be a game to guess the fits from season to season but when you grow up run a business and have a family, the game got old. There many younger brands that scratch my EG itch, but I'll always have a fondness for Daiki and the brand after running into him around NYC and chatting from time to time.
 

badeggcat

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Not sure why the material for the work shirt currently under scrutiny is so expensive. Would be nice to see in person

Hasn’t that always been the biggest weakness of EG as a brand? Always expecting their customers see and try their products in person. Mind you, we’re already in 2020, the year of covid and their online presence is still such an afterthought.

Just look at the Nepenthes NY online store. There are no sizing, material or wash information at all. From the sound of it, even you can’t tell us what’s the difference between the $324 and $276 work shirt. Why aren’t they selling us a story of the fabric used, so that we think that $324 is a good deal?
 

Drinkwaters

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Wow, been down this road before and I want to avoid sounding like a know-it-all but to make it clear and understandable to those who haven't had an opportunity to visit a fabric store in a garment district or peruse through fabric offerings in fabric books from Italian, English, Japanese mills etc., you'll have some difficulty wrapping your head around what constitutes the difference in price of the same article but made in a different fabric. Simply put $30 per yd. vs. 50 per yd., Vitale Barberis Concanico vs. Loro Piana, Pure vs. Blend vs. Organic vs. Recycled vs. Super Quality. So many variables and I wish I could be with you to show you the tactile difference.
I remember when we first started with EG in 2004, work shirts were $165 > $195 and then they were considered expensive. However, when you step aside and examine the recipe in how they're a thing. Premium cloth, skillfully designed, "Hand Made" in USA, limited quantities. The question is, do you subscribe to the brand for what it does for you and your wardrobe or are you in it for the moment. If it's the later, I don't think appreciation values on any of the above matter.
 
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thekunk07

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i still think they're a great value relative to most brands (many of which dont offer the craftmanship or materials). That said since Angelo is gone I fear they will not be the same.
 

g transistor

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I've been an EG loyalist for a decade, but the brand deserves certain criticisms. How can Work Shirt's cost $216, $276, or $324 in the same season? It's the same pattern, details, construction, material, and presumably labor, so why the disparity? The fabrics aren't custom and occassionally you'll find other popular brands using them. So, how do we justify paying such a premium for something that just isn't?

I've made several other critiques of Engineered Garments (steadily rising prices, increased use of synthetic blends, uninspired/rehashed designs), but I've been pondering recently if it's simply a declining brand. It sounds idiotic because the brand is the most widely distributed it's ever been (Mr Porter, SSENSE, Bergdorf Goodman etc.), but it just doesn't seem to have the same "soul" or diehard fanbase it once had. I've found myself less energized each season and I can't help but notice the significant decline in Styleforum activity around EG threads might be a sign others feel similarly. Perhaps I'm an alarmist overly reminiscent of the past, but I can't help but wonder. View attachment 1484584
AW14 the golden year, baby.

It's also just a function fo the forum dying, but yeah. the prices feel much higher these days (I'm not sure if they actually are, tbh). S/S is always almost completely forgettable (except SS15 I quite liked). There's a few stand out pieces every season, but it's never as cohesively good as in the older years. Again, AW14 was chock full of amazing pieces. Incredible collection.
 

illiterate

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I really like what Eastlogue has been doing these days. Kind of reminds me of the more creative/adventurous stuff we used to see from EG often.
 

Phil McCrackin

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Enthusiasm has nose dived, go back through previous years there would be pages and pages on each season, now many brands have upped their game and rival work wear, you can order easily now from many countries and have greater access.
There always will be die hard fans of the brand EG, but I imagine it hard to attract new people when a Field jacket is close to £900, cords close to £400 .. and it’s simple logic really if you can afford it and love the brand you’ll buy or hang on till sale time .. or simply say enough is enough and switch to the vast amount of brands knocking out some stunning stuff if you look for it ..
i certainly agree about Eastlogue, I’ve had a few bits and they are quality .. South Korea and Japan now flood the market for technical and work wear such as Sassafras, And Wander, Comfy Outdoor Garments, CAYL, Goopi Made, Goldwin on and on ..
 

benjamin77

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Enthusiasm has nose dived, go back through previous years there would be pages and pages on each season, now many brands have upped their game and rival work wear, you can order easily now from many countries and have greater access.
There always will be die hard fans of the brand EG, but I imagine it hard to attract new people when a Field jacket is close to £900, cords close to £400 .. and it’s simple logic really if you can afford it and love the brand you’ll buy or hang on till sale time .. or simply say enough is enough and switch to the vast amount of brands knocking out some stunning stuff if you look for it ..
i certainly agree about Eastlogue, I’ve had a few bits and they are quality .. South Korea and Japan now flood the market for technical and work wear such as Sassafras, And Wander, Comfy Outdoor Garments, CAYL, Goopi Made, Goldwin on and on ..
I'm not sure enthusiasm has to be honest, I see more and more of it about over here (Amsterdam) and in London. Maybe the love from the forum crowd has cooled a bit as it's grown elsewhere?
 

Chaconne

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Yeah if you’re brand new to EG and just getting excited about clothes and you see any season you will be blown away and their prices are current with everything else so you won’t be thinking about SS14 or whatever as the good old days.
 

Phil McCrackin

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I'm not sure enthusiasm has to be honest, I see more and more of it about over here (Amsterdam) and in London. Maybe the love from the forum crowd has cooled a bit as it's grown elsewhere?
In London a lot work and pleasure, I see it less and less now ..
so I beg to differ ..
only because I got a good deal I took the FA cords this season, they are lovely I won’t deny that, shirts I’ll pass as they are way too long, I always check what Daiki releasing and as a work wear fan it does tick boxes ..
that said other brands I’m leaning towards more 👍🏻
 

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