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ENGINEERED GARMENTS FALL/WINTER 2020

winston86dit

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I’m surprised to hear all of the pricing concerns. Having bought the brand for nearly a decade, the pricing has always seemed on par with other contemporary brands at the time. Not to mention EG has always been made in the US, which definitely adds to the cost. EG to me still has the same appeal it did all those years ago, it’s work wear done with a fun, irreverent twist. No one else, in my opinion is doing what Daiki is doing. So many brands are so effing serious now a days, romancing the idea of making clothing and how good it can be. Farm to table wool sweaters and whatever. EG has always had a lightness to it, a comedic side, which is especially funny given the inspiration for most of the clothing is based around military garments but it works. The models aren’t just young and white and they actually show the garments on a range of body sizes which I’ve always appreciated.

The only thing I wish EG would get a hold of is the sizing. That shit has gone off the rails! I’m wearing XS pants and S tops now. I’ve always been a medium in all things EG since buying the brand (with the occasional L for a Bedford or Andover).
 

BlakeRVA

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Yeah if you’re brand new to EG and just getting excited about clothes and you see any season you will be blown away and their prices are current with everything else so you won’t be thinking about SS14 or whatever as the good old days.
This is a great point and applicable to every long-running brand. I think one of the problems that EG (and other mature brands) face is that menswear gained the majority of it's momentum during the "Heritage Movement" (2008 - 2012). It's been talked about ad nauseum by journalists, but Menswear has struggled to have a new wave of men take real interest in clothing. As a result, many of the diehard EG fans are left-overs from the Heritage Movement and they've been around menswear for a while now.

There are only so many navy jackets, floral shirts, and green pants you can buy from a brand before it feels stale. Then you start gravitating towards the "out there" pieces that are fun to wear for a few months, but these wind up on 2nd hand marketplaces constantly changing owners. Like @winston86dit said, I've always appreciated the light-hearted whimsy of EG, but I can't help but lament when occasional "new" styles that reanimate me like the Cotton FA Pant run for $400.
 

ramdomthought

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i feel like we've been having this conversation about how EG has been dying since the fw13 thread.

If you'd read the old threads, you'd conclude that this is always true:

-5 years ago FW was always better than today which was better than 2006


I do believe the brand will change with Angelo leaving, but as an aside his new brand (4s) is cool as hell.


Overall this season rules. The pant patterns are dialed in. The signature details with the internal cinch and closure on the pants is great and honestly even an improvement over the "bulletproof" ancient shit with taped hems or whatever

Fabrics are really hitting a fine point. I've got an ancient homespun bedford i wear all the time that just isn't nearly as good as the homespun that's been used since fw14 and through to today. The double cloth used all the time is a wacky weird and good fabric right in line with the old duck of the brand. The hi-lo cord is pretty crazy. The blend tweeds (in say the loiter and bathrobe) are awesome chanel rips. I miss the old uniform serge, but the suiting wool is as good as ever.

Design details are all still there (and beyond). Old design choices like the single piece jacket from ss13 or w/e still carry over in great ways like the peg jeans not having an outseam but instead being giant tubes shaped by darts.

Styling in the lookbooks is a little more tailored than it was in the past, but that also goes with the NY Jazz theme. For someone's first foray into clothes as a story, I think the brand is still nailing that in the lookbook and overall design.

For consistency sake, we're still having the same sizing woes that were posted about in 2008. Things never change.

edit: pricing seems generally consistent. pulled out a receipt for an ss14 polka dot baker and it was $350. $375 for a cord bedford is consistent

excepting of course the god damn tote bags. I like the totes and lost my last one but $200 for a damn cotton tote is absurd! they used to give them away at nepenthes!
 
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Jagger_On

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I really like what Eastlogue has been doing these days. Kind of reminds me of the more creative/adventurous stuff we used to see from EG often.
Maybe I need to take another look at Eastlogue. I remember when I first saw it a few years back I was really unimpressed for some reason. Has it improved?

I don't see any of the other brands that have been mentioned having anything in common with what I look for in EG.

Having said that, I'm firmly in the camp that EG is as good as it ever has been, especially the last 3 or 4 seasons. I think some seasons are remembered more fondly than others but I don't personally think there's been a big drop off. If anything EG has been really consistent. I recently went back through the FW12 thread and you see exactly the same complaints then as you do now, price and sizing. The only thing missing is the massive photo dumps that @timpoblete used to do, which you can generally scroll through IG for these days.

I can see why the current oversized silhouette isn't for every one but its easy enough to adjust your sizing to how you want it to fit (for once us big guys have it easier).
 

thekunk07

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thekunk07

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Maybe I need to take another look at Eastlogue. I remember when I first saw it a few years back I was really unimpressed for some reason. Has it improved?

I don't see any of the other brands that have been mentioned having anything in common with what I look for in EG.

Having said that, I'm firmly in the camp that EG is as good as it ever has been, especially the last 3 or 4 seasons. I think some seasons are remembered more fondly than others but I don't personally think there's been a big drop off. If anything EG has been really consistent. I recently went back through the FW12 thread and you see exactly the same complaints then as you do now, price and sizing. The only thing missing is the massive photo dumps that @timpoblete used to do, which you can generally scroll through IG for these days.

I can see why the current oversized silhouette isn't for every one but its easy enough to adjust your sizing to how you want it to fit (for once us big guys have it easier).
not as consistently great imo but the patchwork loiter suit this year os one of the best thing i have bought in years
 

thatboyo

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Speaking of 4S, there was a polo coat in a preview months ago. Are there any retailers carrying that? None of the current retailers have it at the moment so not sure if it’s in a later shipment or they aren’t carrying it. Notre and MrP haven’t put up their last yet
 

Jagger_On

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not as consistently great imo but the patchwork loiter suit this year os one of the best thing i have bought in years
Yeah, I was looking at that. Gonna check out the trousers at Goodhood this weekend. Looks very cool but I've gone for the navy chalk stripe for the moment.
 

blue peter

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i think brand-fatigue is totally natural. this is a timely discussion as i'm currently experiencing my own case of EG doldrums. it has a bit to do with pricing, a bit to do with covid-19, a bit to do with other personal circumstances. @BlakeRVA said "There are only so many navy jackets, floral shirts, and green pants you can buy from a brand before it feels stale" and i feel this a bit - for me its fatigue with a brand I've loved and worn to the exclusion of almost any other brand, for years. maybe others feel this stagnant vibe, too, so the negative aspect of pricing, etc. feels more amplified right now. For me, several things factor into this fatigue, for example, i wear a suit five out of seven days in the week (sometimes its an EG suit!), providing less opportunity to wear the EG gear I've collected and enjoy - lately, I look into my closet full of season after season of EG with the sad realization that I only have an opportunity to wear a fraction of it. I'd love to have a tyler brule sized collection of navy blazers but then I think...when would i wear them all...and, honestly, do I need 25 blue blazers - isn't the idea that after years you've found the ONE (or two) ultimate blazer, pant, shirt, etc. that fits your style (and body) to a T and can cease the endless searching, pretty cool? i think so. this takes me to another personal factor: at 36 y/o, thanks in huge part to EG, i feel like I've settle on my "forever style" (one day hope to have a forever home to match) and have built out a pretty substantial wardrobe that expresses that style to the point I don't feel the need to expand and add to my closet with big buys season after season, as i did in my honeymoon years with EG. i look back on this evolution from elementary school dressed by parents, to middle school JNCO, to high school volcom, billabong, quicksilver, to college Supreme and APC to where i am now, and I realize EG is a brand I can see myself, in different combinations, wearing to my grave - pretty bold statement, but this breadth and versatility of the brand is something i think we all appreciate. i could jump to another brand and spend a few years buying up their gear...but what's the point (existentially, speaking!)? i like the philosophical idea that after years of searching i've found the brand that best fits my life(style). a final factor (and then i'll quit), that maybe others can relate to is I'm now the father of one toddler with plans for a second babe in the future - having a child is a shock to the life system like no other, and there isn't a corner of one's world left untouched by the new reality...including one's obsession for niche japanese clothing brands! i've got a 529 college savings plan to beef up, heirloom watches and furniture to buy (there's more to life than clothes, after all!), toys, travel, pension funds, etc...parental, adult life kind of changes the calculus on extraneous wardrobe expenditures...finally, i'd say my love of EG is much like marriage...honeymoon phase is over and now the two of us are in it for the long haul - ups and downs, and everything in between - and like the Omega watches and Eames chairs I hope, one day, to pass some of this EG stuff I enjoy so much down to the next gen...the idea warms my heart. peace
 
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thekunk07

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Speaking of 4S, there was a polo coat in a preview months ago. Are there any retailers carrying that? None of the current retailers have it at the moment so not sure if it’s in a later shipment or they aren’t carrying it. Notre and MrP haven’t put up their last yet
feel free to Pm me
 

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