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Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. S K M

    S K M Senior member

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    That's very interesting! I really find button stance and overlap to be some of the most defining features of a DB. For instance I can always tell a DB made by Steed, because they all feature the (in my opinion) too narrow button stance.

    Nice photoshopping btw!
     
  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Carpu, these changes are everything I dislike in a DB. Looks more like nondescript RTW. Overlap distance, button configuration define how much the overlap effects the opening and how much shirt/tie is seen. This can make all the difference to make a DB work on any size man and any proportion.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2016
  3. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I think the show buttons aren't in the right position, the fastening is a 1/4" on the "too narrow" side but I like the idea, I like the mid 60s DB which is more nautical in its heritage.
     
  4. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    Personally i prefer a more classic take on DB,but is matter of taste.
    A more slender lapels on DB work better if button stance is more close and overlapping moderate.
    A high gorge and natural non extended shoulders can help.

    Double breasted have a long history and various configuration through the ages,this is one.
    Can like or not,but is not "wrong" or RTW,
     
  5. Nikola

    Nikola Senior member

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    It's amazing to see how the double breasted suits look way less outdated compared to single breasted upon looking at those 50 years old styles ..
     
  6. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    David,as i have write many times i like very much your style (maybe because remember to me the better bespoke of early 60s a age that i love).
    You have touched a important point: in past decades bespoke tailors interpreted their age.
    Many were classic but not "timeless",and many of them followed ( or created) the trends.
    Now,maybe for the high cost of a bespoke suits or for other reasons tailors and customers want a "timeless" style (that for the double breasted seems to be a version of 30s style).

    Anyway here a 1962 blazer from Milanese tailor Baratta that recall to me your coat.

    [​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    That maybe so, I am really lucky here that I have, or tend to be able to cultivate a clientele that is more daring. I have about a 100 clients at the moment that average 3 pieces a year but some of them have been with me since year one (which was 7 years ago) so that many suits in and they get more experimental themselves. I really like to see this because its truly stylish dressing and you really start to see peoples expression coming through. I would always aspire to be that tailoring house that makes the trends, its why modern is in the tagline. I think too many people are getting into this business as something they have "discovered" or "rediscovered" (which is maybe why people like historical styles) for me its what I have always done and I have always working at a high level in the business, I started at 19 and I am now 37, aside from working part time in a bar at Uni this is the only career or job I have done. In that time I have seen amazing changes, 5 years ago I would find it shocking to take pictures of clients at fittings, 10 years ago i would never reveal who my clients were under any circumstance, 16 years ago I would have thought it was science fiction that people measure themselves and place orders for suits online.
     
    2 people like this.
  8. SartodiNapoli

    SartodiNapoli Senior member

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  9. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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  10. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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  11. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    typical A&S
     
  12. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Objectively, online posters would tear me a new one if I put a client in that.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  13. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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  14. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    What are you talking about?
     
  15. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    "No waist suppression #fail brah" then you'd get red lines drawn on it showing pulling on the buttons.....

    I think Charles is a fine enough dresser, I really do, but I don't think he's an amazing dresser as people seem to think he is these days.

    If that was David Cameron wearing that same outfit would you still like it the same?
     
    4 people like this.
  16. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    But in your opinion is that suit a Anderson & Sheppard?
     
  17. NYDRH

    NYDRH Senior member

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    I think the average or even expert denizen of Styleforum would take a big pause before opening themselves up for criticism by scrutinizing anything that P. Charles is wearing based on the litany of sacrosanct tailors that are at his service. There are easier targets to wash in internet vitriol. But in fairness to the old man, and his tailors the angle and motion of that pic are not exactly flattering.
     
  18. David Reeves

    David Reeves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I would hazard yes, I discussed this before but I think what we are seeing is suits being worn for a long time and being altered to the point were they are beyond an optimal fit. Now I'm going to say he dresses fine and I really mean that it's not backhanded in any way but I think if he got a new suit his tailors could work with his proportions better. Of course he quit A&S after the McQueen fiasco, he gets his new suits MTM from Turnbull I believe.

    I'm from Generation X it doesn't seem so long ago that prince Charles would be the height of uncool I'm just not buying into this narrative pushed by writers and bloggers over recent years that he's an awesome dresser. Another reason I don't think he's particularly remarkable as a dresser is because I've been dressing people like that for 17 years! It's not that I don't like it, it just doesn't look anything special to me and in his case it probably shouldn't IMO.

    Now I am aware if you are judging him from a different perspective you could be seeing something else but for me it's pretty much by the numbers English style.
     
  19. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I don't know how much new stuff Charles is buying, but John Hitchcock of A&S still has (or has again) a Royal Warrant. Mr Hitchcock and Malcolm Plews often share a car when they have to go see the Prince about one thing or another.

    He does get a lot of miles out of his clothes, however. Apparently, he has three valets-- at 8-hour shifts, that's literally 24/7 coverage for cleaning, pressing, repairing, etc.

    Also, the McQueen thing needs some careful looking at. There is a decent risk that he spread the story himself.
     
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2016
  20. ericgereghty

    ericgereghty Senior member

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    Agreed fully. I don't think he's a bad dresser by any means, but this idea that he's the epitome of class and style (at least as pertains to clothes) is one I find fascinating.

    Though, to be fair, the lionizing of public figures for rather ordinary feats is not exactly a new phenomenon.
     
    1 person likes this.

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