Denim 101 for Men's Clothing

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kaxixi, Dec 2, 2008.

  1. kaxixi

    kaxixi Senior member

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    +1. What is chainstitching and what is roping?
     
  2. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    and Soaking 101 pwease
     
  3. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    +1. What is chainstitching and what is roping?
    Roping would be the white crests along the folds of my chainstitched RRLs: [​IMG]
    and Soaking 101 pwease
    Basically, your high-end raw jean falls into two categories: 1) Unwashed/Shrink-to-fit: The cotton in the denim has yet to touch water or been mechanically-treated and subsequently will shrink upon the first soak. Most jeans do not come this way and for good reason: the average consumer would get a headache trying to figure out which size to buy to account for future shrinkage which can be variable. If you do purchase an unwashed/shrink-to-fit pair of jeans, the idea would be to soak them in water BEFORE wearing them as they will be larger than tagged at purchase and will shrink 2-3" in the waist, 3-5" in length once washed. 2) One-wash/Sanforized: A majority of jeans today are made this way. The denim is still raw but has been treated, either in water or mechanically, to minimize future shrinkage. There are two schools of thought on this: a) soak these immediately like unwashed jeans to get over the 3-5% expected shrinkage or b) wear these straight out of the bag and worry about the soak/wash later since it is minimal. I personally belong to the latter group since soaked jeans will eventually stretch back out in the waist and you can get back length shrinkage by pulling on the legs while the jeans are still wet. While most purists enjoy the guesswork of unwashed jeans, I have never had to deal with it and frankly don't see the point. In fact, places like Blue in Green offer the same jean model in an unwashed or one-wash state so that you can decide for yourself (guess which is more popular...).
     
  4. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Interesting thanks. And how exactly does one "soak" a pair of jeans after a good number of washes? I heard odd things like taking a bath with your jeans on in a bathtub - is this just mythology?
     
  5. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I heard odd things like taking a bath with your jeans on in a bathtub - is this just mythology?

    Well, I've done it.
     
  6. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Well, I've done it.
    So it must be mythology
     
  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    So it must be mythology

    Well, I won't dispute being somewhat god-like.
     
  8. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    You can get roping with normal lockstitching, it just won't be as pronounced. In some higher end Japanese denims more than just the hems are chainstiched.
     
  9. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    The wild and the pure.
    Well, I've done it.

    So it must be mythology

    I have too.
     
  10. gdl203

    gdl203 Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    I have too.

    Well, I've done it.

    oh.. now I understand
     
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I have too.

    oh.. now I understand

    Matt, you made that way too easy for him.
     
  12. JO3B

    JO3B Senior member

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    i have no interest in going anywhere to inspect anything.

    those not so interested should stick to apc. diving further in, it almost seems wrong to not chainstitch.
     
  13. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    these are the same jeans vox posted [​IMG]
     
  14. bmulford

    bmulford Senior member

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    Roping would be the white crests along the folds of my chainstitched RRLs:
    [​IMG]

    Basically, your high-end raw jean falls into two categories:

    1) Unwashed/Shrink-to-fit: The cotton in the denim has yet to touch water or been mechanically-treated and subsequently will shrink upon the first soak. Most jeans do not come this way and for good reason: the average consumer would get a headache trying to figure out which size to buy to account for future shrinkage which can be variable. If you do purchase an unwashed/shrink-to-fit pair of jeans, the idea would be to soak them in water BEFORE wearing them as they will be larger than tagged at purchase and will shrink 2-3" in the waist, 3-5" in length once washed.

    2) One-wash/Sanforized: A majority of jeans today are made this way. The denim is still raw but has been treated, either in water or mechanically, to minimize future shrinkage. There are two schools of thought on this: a) soak these immediately like unwashed jeans to get over the 3-5% expected shrinkage or b) wear these straight out of the bag and worry about the soak/wash later since it is minimal. I personally belong to the latter group since soaked jeans will eventually stretch back out in the waist and you can get back length shrinkage by pulling on the legs while the jeans are still wet.

    While most purists enjoy the guesswork of unwashed jeans, I have never had to deal with it and frankly don't see the point. In fact, places like Blue in Green offer the same jean model in an unwashed or one-wash state so that you can decide for yourself (guess which is more popular...).


    RRL denim - how does one tell if they are of the first or second order?
     
  15. Teger

    Teger Senior member

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    They will say "SHRINK TO FIT" on the back pocket tag. IIRC the STF RRLs also cost more, have a big buckle on the back, and come in a cloth bag.
     

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