Denim 101 for Men's Clothing

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kaxixi, Dec 2, 2008.

  1. bmulford

    bmulford Senior member

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    Thanks. How bad would it look to have them hemmed without chainstitching?

    I don't know personally, but Vox said it was the way to go, it was worth a google search.
     


  2. polar-lemon

    polar-lemon Senior member

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    Where is the best place in NYC to try on a bunch of different jeans to see what works and what doesn't? Barneys?
     


  3. Using Technology

    Using Technology Senior member

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    Where is the best place in NYC to try on a bunch of different jeans to see what works and what doesn't? Barneys?
    Blue in Green
     


  4. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    I believe all RRL are sanforized.
    Not true. The bucklebacks are STF.
    I believe people dry clean their jeans to preserve the indigo.
    True.
    There was a paper label that stated I should wear them 30 days before either dry cleaning or washing, but it doesn't state what temperature you should use to wash them or whether you should dry them. Dry clean jeans? Do they shrink when you wash them? I got the jeans based on the recs in this thread and they put my 501s to shame. Any recs on care? Thanks?
    Temp doesn't really matter as I've done both hot washes and cold washes to little effect; I still prefer a cold soak with a little bit of Bronner's soap. Always hang dry. You pull on the legs while they're still wet to get back a bit of length lost in shrinkage and the waist will go back on its own after a couple of wears. 30 days of wear won't do much if you're looking for high-contrast fading. RRLs are pretty stubborn in general in that respect.
    Thanks. How bad would it look to have them hemmed without chainstitching?
    Many jeans are not chainstitched. It all comes down to personal preference and is really more of an aesthetic detail to purists. After about 15 jeans, I've started not to really care.
    Where is the best place in NYC to try on a bunch of different jeans to see what works and what doesn't? Barneys?
    Barney's is fine. Others would be... Odin, Blue in Green.
     


  5. Using Technology

    Using Technology Senior member

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    Okay, here is my jeans question. I know probably every question has been answered somewhere but I hope people don't mind me asking here. Basically I'm reading to make the leap from APCs to a nicer pair of jeans. Or at least I'm ready to spend a fair amount on one great pair to have in my rotation. I would like a somewhat slimmish fit and don't have any interest in skinny much less skin-tight fit. My waist, however, is fairly big compared to my legs, so often when I get a normal or slim fit they don't actually look all that slim. One reason I liked APCs is that I could size down and stretch them a bunch giving me a bigger waist but not baggy legs. My other problem with APCs is that the stretchiness factor, while great for my waist, tends to casue the knee and thighs to get bigger that I'd prefer (when I wear them dry after wash to get the waist right). A fit in the legs along the liens of JO3B picture is probably pretty good. * My ideal waist is about 18" or a tad bigger across. * raw (selvage preferable but not essential) * I'm fairly tall and like to stack a bit so an inseam of over 35" would be best (maybe 36 or 37 ideal). * I like the moderate tapering from the knee that APC NS do Does anyone have any suggestions? Would something like Dior's work? (I know they are considered a skinny person jean, but at bigger sizes do they fit more normally?) Jeans that caught my eye from pic threads on here: PBJ, Flat Head, 5EP, Dior... Thanks!
     


  6. greekonomist

    greekonomist Senior member

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    Many jeans are not chainstitched. It all comes down to personal preference and is really more of an aesthetic detail to purists. After about 15 jeans, I've started not to really care.

    Mine are rag & bone. I believe the model is called rb15. Thoughts on chainstitching for that particular jean?
     


  7. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    Mine are rag & bone. I believe the model is called rb15. Thoughts on chainstitching for that particular jean?
    I had a pair of rb15s that needed shortening. Didn't get them chainstitched and yet there is still roping. YMMV.
     


  8. KObalto

    KObalto Senior member

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    Not true. The bucklebacks are STF.
    True.


    30 days of wear won't do much if you're looking for high-contrast fading. RRLs are pretty stubborn in general in that respect.

    Yes, it might have said 90 days now that I think about it. I'm not interested in high contrast anyway. I'm 51 and remember buying my Levi Super Straights large as they would shrink to fit. I bought the RRLs in a 34" waist instead of my usual 33" with this in mind. They fit okay now, but I'm hoping they get a bit snugger. Thanks for everyone's advice.
     


  9. JO3B

    JO3B Senior member

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    a regular stitch will never rope the same way chainstitching will.

    as a matter of fact, i wouldn't even call it roping. sure there are fades reminiscent of roping but the overall effect as very far from the aesthetic pleasure that is roping.

    also, counting days to washing is a bit much.
     


  10. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    Yes, it might have said 90 days now that I think about it. I'm not interested in high contrast anyway. I'm 51 and remember buying my Levi Super Straights large as they would shrink to fit. I bought the RRLs in a 34" waist instead of my usual 33" with this in mind. They fit okay now, but I'm hoping they get a bit snugger. Thanks for everyone's advice.
    In that case just wear them and wash them like you normally would. They're only jeans. Just know that obviously the more you wash them, the faster they'll lose their dark color.
     


  11. whodini

    whodini Conan OOOOOOO"BRIEN!

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    a regular stitch will never rope the same way chainstitching will. as a matter of fact, i wouldn't even call it roping. sure there are fades reminiscent of roping but the overall effect as very far from the aesthetic pleasure that is roping. also, counting days to washing is a bit much.
    To-may-to, to-mah-to. You're more than welcome to come down to Central America and inspect my jeans. But to tell people that are relatively inexperienced that they need to get their jeans chainstitched just so that they'll know the "pleasure" of roping is pure bullshit and a complete waste of time/money. Like counting days, it's a bit much.
     


  12. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Many jeans are not chainstitched. It all comes down to personal preference and is really more of an aesthetic detail to purists. After about 15 jeans, I've started not to really care.

    +1

    Chainstitching is cool if it is readily available. But it's not THAT big a deal and I certainly am not going to pay $15 plus shipping both ways just for chainstitching. If you don't have someone to do it locally then just get them hemmed the regular way.
     


  13. Grayland

    Grayland Senior member

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    +1

    Chainstitching is cool if it is readily available. But it's not THAT big a deal and I certainly am not going to pay $15 plus shipping both ways just for chainstitching. If you don't have someone to do it locally then just get them hemmed the regular way.


    Just make sure you ask the tailor to use matching thread (color-wise); it looks pretty bad if the stitching is yellow everywhere and the hem thread is blue.
     


  14. A Harris

    A Harris Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yep, non-contrasting thread at the hem looks bad.
     


  15. greekonomist

    greekonomist Senior member

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    Thanks, Whodini and A Harris. I won't worry about the chainstitching.

    Was roping covered in this thread? That term is new to me.
     


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