Cashmere Sweater Hierarchy

[OrlandoMo]

Between the ones that got mentioned Brunello Cucinelli has certainly the best quality, but price is waaay to high. They have a mark-up of around x9/x10, insane.

 

[harryx2]

Frankly COS cashmere is not that cheap. But it already piles like mad whilst on the hanger.

I bet it's not for its quality, but it definitely won't cost 1700EUR! I'm so tired of this boring gray minimalist aesthetic. Especially when they charge you sky high prices for it.

 

[harryx2]

There will always be brands that intimidate people on SF. LP, Cucinelli, Tom Ford (to a degree), and now The Row. Price is a big part of it, but not everything.

But the minute a piece of the stuff shows up on LuxeSwap (@SpooPoker), people lose their **** and go nuts for it.

I love Loro Piana and really wish I could afford more of their stuff. They are the definition of Italian elegance to me.

 

[squalidozzi]

I wanted to post a recent experience with N. Peal's MTO program. N. Peal is a great mid-high end priced cashmere knitwear company, but until recently I did not realize that you could order any of their products made to measure in custom colors, for the same price as their website. This is basically bespoke cashmere knitwear, made in England, for $300-500. I just recieved my first garment and it is awesome. I went in to the store on Madison, but I think the other way to do it would be to maybe order an off-the-rack garment, take it to a tailor and have the tailor recommend changes to the measurements, and then return the one you ordered and order another one with the altered measurements. Orders must be placed over the phone, and take 2-3 months. I just figured I would share that this exists and that is is awesome. I am very tall and for my whole life I have had trouble finding knitwear that fits correctly, and this is a great solution! I also would recommend Maison Cashmere's MTO, but it is decidedly more mid-range in quality and the selection is nowhere near as good. Good for basics, however.

What's been your experience with how they wear? What kind of pilling do you get? Can you compare them to other brands you've worn? Appreciate any context, was thinking of springing for them.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Me have vintage N Peal 6 ply cashmere shawl collar cardigan bought NOS from a lady.
It most beautiful shawl cardigan me ever did see.
It never pill ever.
Not one pill!
It very very good.

It not made as good as Ballantyne 6 ply cardigans because placket and shawl areas not double thickness,
but it has great style with a big bold shawl collar that make big statement.
Young man tell me it very very good.

The O'connells 12 ply is next on my list.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Rarest jumper of all

a 1980's 4 ply Ballantyne intarsia bought new.
it rare,
it work of art,
it me favorite jumper
it very very good.
it not pill much
me very very lucky.

Me also have thick Tom Ford turtleneck made in U.K
It look very very good.
It thick but very airy and light.
It not made like the old heavy stuff.

 

[induere_to]

This is a fun thread to read through. Opinion v. Opinion.

This is my favourite cashmere sweater:

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I love Loro Piana and really wish I could afford more of their stuff. They are the definition of Italian elegance to me.

I, too, love their products and more than willing to forgo volume for quality.
What I especially like about them is the work they put into maintaining control over their supply chain and the fact that they are textile engineers and not just designers.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

Me think the Loro Piana is top maker now,
It pill the least of all maker and solid made.
The baby cashmere very very good.
The Malo is very good,
but it can pill and thick knits not as tightly knit as old Ballantyne.
Brunello Cucinelli look most good of all knit but it can pill more than Loro Piana so it not as good quality because of this imo.
Me have the Borrelli,
it very very good and me wear it hard and it not pill.
Loro Piano top of the ltalian imo.
Old Scotland highend cashmere all better than anything made today.
The Hermes'/Begg cashmere scarf much more good than any cashmere scarf made anywhere imo.

Me like the cashmere,
it feel good and drape good.
Lamb wool feel rough and not me style.
Me wear cashmere most of time
Me wear cashmere most of year

Malo thick cableknit v's William Lockie thick cableknit
Similar quality.
Me like both.
Malo win because there is more variety,
can buy thicker knit.
Lockie selection more limited,
6 ply most high ply but the Malo can get very high ply.
Me buy the Lockie for the 6 ply cashmere sweaters,
it good for average wear.
Lockie 2 ply is good but nothing special.
Lockie high ply make it a special maker,
hard to find 6 ply cashmere from Scotland.
Me have the Ballantyne multi ply for special wear.

Me not like the aran cableknit as good
Rough virgin wool,
not luxurious like cashmere.
It more primitive like caveman.

 

[Son Of Saphir]

The favourite cashmere

Ballantyne 1980's turtlenecks,
none have ever pilled.
Very tough.
Nothing compare to it.
3 ply Ballantyne most good of all.
Me think Ballantyne made best ever cashmere item,
it the tough hard cashmere,
and none of the other big name make it like that.

Hermes cashmere made in scotland turtlenecks.
Plush and luxurious like nothing else.
Made to very high standard.

Hermes made in Scotland V necks.
All plush and luxurious,
one made with dry cashmere and tough like Ballantyne.

Modern day Hermes made in Scotland sweater made plush and luxurious like nothing else,
even 3 ply Ballantyne not feel as plush or thick as one of me Hermes cashmere turtleneck,
but 3 ply Ballantyne still thick and solid.
but old Ballantyne still more good because it more tough with no or little pilling.
Modern Hermes' can pill a little bit more,
it different beast.
Me wonder who make it,
Barrie?

the multi ply intarsia most good because it great craftsmanship,
but none done in hard cashmere,
me have one 3 or 4 ply 1980's Ballantyne intarsia that really soft and never pill at all.
me have another 4 ply 1980's Ballantyne intarsia (bought new) that really soft and it pill only small bit.
The both are masterpiece,
nothing compare to it ever made.
The 6 ply Ballantynes very very luxurious and special like nothing else,
very very rare.

me like to talk about the cashmere,
me could talk about it all day.

 

[rwtc]

Between the ones that got mentioned Brunello Cucinelli has certainly the best quality, but price is waaay to high. They have a mark-up of around x9/x10, insane.

May I ask how you know their mark-up? I see this figure being thrown around, but unsure where it came from.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

May I ask how you know their mark-up? I see this figure being thrown around, but unsure where it came from.

thats a good question. Furthermore, a mark up from what? What’s the baseline used for this comparison?

 

[rwtc]

In 2019, Cucinelli had an operating margin of 13.7%, which I understand is on the low side in the industry. LVMH is for example 21.4%.

@OrlandoMo

 

[VinceCompost]

There are people that don't know how to cook pasta?

Yes: most people outside of Italy, and even many inside. The fact that you ask this question suggests you are probably one of them. Sorry.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Has anyone had experience with The Cashmere Shop's boutique in Toronto? Some of their offerings look comfortable, but I have no notion of their quality. The cashmere is from Mongolia, it seems.