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jebarne

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What I can't figure is how to shoot navy or black things against a white background without really ramping up exposure, which kills any lighter colors. A black suit with good detail is always paired with a horribly blown out white shirt for me. I can fix it in post, but I don't like adding extra steps and time towards correcting photos. Especially when each shot is a subjective fiddling with levels or curves.

This for instance:



This was a couple months ago, so the white balance is off, and goddamnit there's **** on the lens too, but it's a good example. I want to be able to have this definition in the jacket but also not completely lose my shirt. Oh, and I want to do this without going the HDR route.

edit: oh holy ****, THAT'S the purpose of a grey card!

edit2: damnit, actually no that won't give me a higher range
the background and work surface that Wes uses IS A gray card. on the munsell color standard, its a Nuetral gray 8. That particular system is used for color matching applications.

Wes thrifted an older model, but you can check out the spec's to the current models here: http://gtilite.com/cvx-color-viewing-station.htm

when I was first thinking about listing, I put together a table top photo station made from foam core board and clip lights. I actually made 2 of them. I painted the first on munsell neutral gray 8 and the 2nd I did a white that is used for painted projections screens. Both produced the same result, or essentially so. This befuddled me because I wanted the stark white to disappear the background. Trying to answer this question, I found out that DSLR's, at least the consumer versions, process white and NG8 as the same regardless of what you've chosen. Since there is more variability in whites than most people see, MG8 is a way to standardize white balance.

When I decided I wanted to try to see if I could find stuff and sell it, I wanted to have a compact system. In fact, I designed a piece of furniture that would compress the entire photo set up into about an 18"x48" foot print. Everything folded up and out. before I invested a ton of time building that, I wanted to see if I could duplicate the lighting and get decent results. (you can probably tell, the fun of this for me is figuring stuff out.) On the gtlite website, I saw a standalone over head light. http://gtilite.com/vertical-wall-viewing.html. This seemed like a good solution for keeping your set up compact, so that's essentially what I did. Theirs started at $2000 for the overhead fixture with bulbs. I bought a 4 foot troffer fixture with 4 bulbs and a 2 bulb light at lowe's and 6500K bulbs. I built a wood frame and mounted it. results were pretty good. I ended up with a 6 bulb system for about $100. Each of the lamps has 2700 lumens so over 16000 lumens overhead. and it doubles as a tanning bed.
wink.gif


I've since taken the 2 bulb fixture and aimed it at the backdrop, changed diffusers a couple of times.....I almost never have to fix color now.

I'm still dicking around with diffusing the light because I have that same issue of washing out the whites when capturing dark items.

There are so many variables from system to system. its hard to copy. Wes actually sent me a couple of his photos when I was testing my system. I wanted to check the metadata and see how his camera was set up for his shots. I manually matched his settings, ended up with a very good result, but with harsher contrast. Is it the Nikon vs Canon? is it the diffuser his system includes? is it the gray background? Is it just the innate talent of the shooter?

I don't know, but he got me close enough that I was comfortable with starting a store.
 

jebarne

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Snoogz

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Why uses flashes instead of continuous lighting from a softbox?
+1 for flash for me.

Cheaper/ Take up less space is what i'm getting from a general "lighting" search in this thread.

I just have a mannequin with no lighting with sort of limited room, what softbox do you use?
+1

All this, three months of tinkering, and I still can't get Snoogz' or suited's shots. :|
I fight against space, and from day one I told myself I was going to get a light set up, but never got around to it. At this point, I won't purchase one because my method works great for me.

I use 4 5000k bulbs in my overhead ceiling fan, and a sb600 shoe mount flash that I turn to bounce. I also lower my flash to -.3 because its too bright with my bulbs. My results may vary slightly at times, but for me, there are took many PROS not to continue my way. I don't have to worry about taking up any floor space what so ever.
 

Reosymes

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What on earth would prompt me to use a red felt tip pen to record measurements? It ******* had to happen. Red ink on a pair of MINT Zegna pants. Dry cleaner says she'll try but the spot will likely stay.

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green_machine

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I use the oxiclean spray to get out permanent marker. Usually works on all fresh marker. Put something under the area to catch the ink because it will bleed and stain the fabric.
 

Reosymes

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Thanks. I soaked the pants in hot water and applied oxyclean immediately. They're at the cleaners now, let's see what happens. I'm actually more upset at my abject stupidity.
 

Koala-T

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Thanks. I soaked the pants in hot water and applied oxyclean immediately. They're at the cleaners now, let's see what happens. I'm actually more upset at my abject stupidity.
I've heard hand sanitizer works on marker, but haven't tried it. Not that this suggestion does you any good now, but maybe for future reference of the thread.
 

Shoeluv

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the background and work surface that Wes uses IS A gray card. on the munsell color standard, its a Nuetral gray 8. That particular system is used for color matching applications.

Wes thrifted an older model, but you can check out the spec's to the current models here: http://gtilite.com/cvx-color-viewing-station.htm

when I was first thinking about listing, I put together a table top photo station made from foam core board and clip lights. I actually made 2 of them. I painted the first on munsell neutral gray 8 and the 2nd I did a white that is used for painted projections screens. Both produced the same result, or essentially so. This befuddled me because I wanted the stark white to disappear the background. Trying to answer this question, I found out that DSLR's, at least the consumer versions, process white and NG8 as the same regardless of what you've chosen. Since there is more variability in whites than most people see, MG8 is a way to standardize white balance.

When I decided I wanted to try to see if I could find stuff and sell it, I wanted to have a compact system. In fact, I designed a piece of furniture that would compress the entire photo set up into about an 18"x48" foot print. Everything folded up and out. before I invested a ton of time building that, I wanted to see if I could duplicate the lighting and get decent results. (you can probably tell, the fun of this for me is figuring stuff out.) On the gtlite website, I saw a standalone over head light. http://gtilite.com/vertical-wall-viewing.html. This seemed like a good solution for keeping your set up compact, so that's essentially what I did. Theirs started at $2000 for the overhead fixture with bulbs. I bought a 4 foot troffer fixture with 4 bulbs and a 2 bulb light at lowe's and 6500K bulbs. I built a wood frame and mounted it. results were pretty good. I ended up with a 6 bulb system for about $100. Each of the lamps has 2700 lumens so over 16000 lumens overhead. and it doubles as a tanning bed.
wink.gif


I've since taken the 2 bulb fixture and aimed it at the backdrop, changed diffusers a couple of times.....I almost never have to fix color now.

I'm still dicking around with diffusing the light because I have that same issue of washing out the whites when capturing dark items.

There are so many variables from system to system. its hard to copy. Wes actually sent me a couple of his photos when I was testing my system. I wanted to check the metadata and see how his camera was set up for his shots. I manually matched his settings, ended up with a very good result, but with harsher contrast. Is it the Nikon vs Canon? is it the diffuser his system includes? is it the gray background? Is it just the innate talent of the shooter?

I don't know, but he got me close enough that I was comfortable with starting a store.

I want you to come over to my house for a vacation
thumbs-up.gif
You can help me set up my eBay room and get a free place to stay in Nashville.
 

ridethecliche

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Took some pics using mannequin skywalker for the first time. Room for improvement, but I think it's pretty awesome for just natural light!

It would have been better if I'd done it earlier in the day. Might take a day off from work this week to work on some grad school essays and finish up taking some pictures and maybe hit a couple of thrifts :)
 

jebarne

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I want you to come over to my house for a vacation :thumbs-up: You can help me set up my eBay room and get a free place to stay in Nashville.


I'll be there on the 26, 27 on business. No thrift time in the schedule. Yet.

And if I come for a project, I'll look like jethro because I would bring tools. A lot of tools. :nodding:
 

jebarne

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Thanks. I soaked the pants in hot water and applied oxyclean immediately. They're at the cleaners now, let's see what happens. I'm actually more upset at my abject stupidity.


So if they're not good when you get them back, and you think they're a write off, or if you want to try on a waste piece, use the marker on a piece of fabric to test this,

Get something extremely absorbent and put under the stain... You might even pin the fabric to it to hold it in place. Then get several qtips and a bottle of alcohol and start working on the mark.
 

Lirum

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Dear antiekman,

Good Evening,

I am interested in the Southwick suit, and prepared to make an offer. However, and I mean this with no disrespect, it would be substantially under the listed BIN price.

I am not saying that it isn't worth the list price or anything like that. It is simply what I can (as a student) really afford to lay out.

If you're not interested in hearing anymore, I completely understand. I'll stop right here as to not waste either of our time. If you'd like to hear a number first and go from there, that's fine too.

In either case, I just want to reiterate that my offer is sincere. It simply reflects the reality of what I can pay. Whether it is one to consider or completely laughable is for you to decide.

But if we're on different planets, then I'd like to say thanks in advance for your time and attention--as well as good luck with your listing.

Regards,

Pat / another-rottie

Well, I still think this message is hilarious, but this guy has been the best buyer I've transacted with in five years of selling things. He's now a solid repeat buyer and has left glowing feedback and a warm email to me. (wes I sent him your way, figured a college student needs all the help he can get)
 

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