Bespoke overcoat: worth it?

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Wow. That's gorgeous.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Yes, here is a pic:

Very cool - love the pinched back.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Wow. That's gorgeous.

I sense someone will be placing an order with Rubinacci soon

 

[Brad]

That's a beautiful coat, Matt. Does it have a box pleat in the back?

My Barbera overcoat is exactly like that, but camel. I thought it was a variation of the polo coat. I guess I was wrong.

 

[Despos]

My 2 cents about your three options.

From a retailers point of view, selling RTW topcoats has a very small window and small demand . Small window because if the weather does not turn cold enough, soon enough men do not buy them. Two years ago the weather was warm into December and Neimans had all their topcoats on sale by November.A topcoat is not something men buy often because they are worn seasonally and are a utility garment worn only when needed. The topcaot does not get replaced as often as other garments so the turnover is slow. The big consumer objections are topcoats are too bulky, not comfortable and something else to carry around especially on a trip when you may not need to wear it and don't want to carry extra clothing. Men look at the expense / usage and put off buying one. I say all this to point out that most low to mid priced RTW makers realize all this and put less constuction into RTW topcoats to keep cost low and try to make them very light which may not have the warmth needed when it is really cold. Many RTW topcoats are crap for these reasons. If you go RTW stay with better brands that do not take this road. A good bet is to visit Morris & Sons while you are in Chicago. You will find Brioni, Barbera, Kiton, Zilli at decent prices and they may have the size you need. Sizing is the biggest problem you may have going RTW because of the fullnes cut into the garment you may need to downsize one or two sizes.

Going MTM is the most risky of your options and has greatest margin of error that you will be satisfied.

Having one custom made has the most benefits. Topcoats cut from heavy cloth drape well and so you would think they are esay to make and fit. If you have balance/posture issues the fit becomes more critical and end product will be less comfortable if not fitted properly.
The last thing you want in a topcoat is restricted movement. A jacket is fitted to your body. A topcoat is fitted over your jacket. This has its own issues and will be fitted accordingly. A too deep or too high armhole will not work when worn over a jacket. I don't know what R does but I make topcoat patterns from your jacket pattern and so the topcoat takes the same silhouette as your jacket and follows the same lines. Since you are wearing unpadded jackets you will want the topcoat made the same way. That is not readily available elsewhere.

Cashmere is a good choice for warmth and luxury but it has a heavy nap and can be prone to scar and can easliy look tired after a few years of active wear.If I had one topcoat it would not be 100% cashmere. Cashmere and wool blends are better alternative. I still wear a wool & cashmere brown/black herringbone topcoat made in 1985 so look at it as a long term investment. It may be a more pragmatic choice than a DJ this year. Topcoats really give you a finished and well dressed appearance. Don't forget gloves, scarf and hat are the next purchases.

Get something practical ( It will get dirty with snow, rain, salt etc.) for everyday wear with some style. Add a cashmere topcoat when you are working and know where you are living after school. Get a decent RTW if you see it as a short term item to fill the gap and if you can get one that fits and looks good to you at a decent price or custom if it is one more step in building your wardrobe.

Did you think to register at Rubinacci for your wedding? Could have been on you gift list

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by Brad

That's a beautiful coat, Matt. Does it have a box pleat in the back?

My Barbera overcoat is exactly like that, but camel. I thought it was a variation of the polo coat. I guess I was wrong.

I'd call it a polo coat.

+1 on Chris's reply- the brown herringbone looks very snazzy ( and it still looks new- unlike cheapo, or not so cheapo- RTW after a couple of years)

 

[Brad]

Originally Posted by yachtie

I'd call it a polo coat.

That's what I thought, but ET referred to it as an Ulster. I was

.

 

[yachtie]

Originally Posted by Brad

That's what I thought, but ET referred to it as an Ulster. I was

.

Ulster has a half cape attached IIRC.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by Despos

Going MTM is the most risky of your options and has greatest margin of error that you will be satisfied.


There is apparently an entirely different world of MTM out there than the one I lived in for a while. Before I went back to bespoke, the few times either Martin Greenfield or Oxxford garments had a problem they were similar to issues I've had with my tailors and fixed as promptly. Shoulders not as nice as bespoke for certain (there's a reason Brooks Brothers introduced the sack) but then the conversation started with a budget question.

I agree that MTM is better suited to raglan sleeved coats and a tweed version would be perfect worn over Fan's odd jackets.

 

[Despos]

Yachties picture is an Inverness. If it were an Ulster with a cape it would be double breasted. Also the one in the picture is quite ugly.

Iammatt's would have an all around belt and not peak lapels to be an Ulster. It looks like a hybrid as styling goes.

 

[LabelKing]

I was recently looking though Vogue L'Uomo and they were featuring vintage photos of actors and the like--there was a fitted alpaca coat that was exceptionally good-looking.

Perhaps you should get an alpaca coat.

 

[RJman]

mafoo, if you go bespoke you can get that mink collar you've mentioned. That will be a great hit at the law firm, although it might not pay to advertise that you spend more on clothing than any other person at the firm.

 

[globetrotter]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Yes, here is a pic:

Thanks. As I said, I rarely wear it, so I am sure I will have it for a good long while.

Matt, the front is nice, but the back is spectacular

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by RJman

mafoo, if you go bespoke you can get that mink collar you've mentioned. That will be a great hit at the law firm, although it might not pay to advertise that you spend more on clothing than any other person at the firm.

I presume you're being facetious; I wouldn't dare wear a coat like that to work. I only think I can get away with wearing my other clothes because I doubt anyone will recognize anything special about them.

 

[Coho]

Is it just me or is the fit slightly off in this illustration? I think he could use a slightly wider shoulder so the sleeves drape better. Sometimes, over-tailored garments can make the wearer appears effeminate and this is such a case. It's funny that we're discussing topcoat in the summer. This is pure madness.

Originally Posted by Sator