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Altering an overcoat from IT 50 to IT 48 (Loro Piana Martingala)

rui21

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I'm in the US and LP Martingala in my size (small, IT 48) is out of stock everywhere. However, I asked my local store if they could alter a size medium to a small, and they said yes. I have never done such an alteration before and I'm curious to learn your thoughts. The alternative would be to wait until they restock, but that could be as long as the next season.

I'm 5'11-6' tall and weigh 163 pounds (74 kilo). Inseam is 29"-30". Body type is lean/muscular. The IT 46 (extra small) fit me, but it's very fitted around the shoulder and I wanted to feel more comfortable in the shoulders.

Shall I go ahead with the alteration?

 

gimpwiz

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Surely for $6300 you should get the correct size.

For $63 I'd tell you that the difference one size makes is often small enough to get away with it, especially with an overcoat that is going to be worn over at least two layers, and really you could do fine just wearing one size up for an overcoat most of the time anyways. For $6300 I would tell you not to do this.
 

GaiusM

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Seconding @gimpwiz
For that price you could have a coat made for you.
Altering something thrifted or reasonable RTW is one thing, spending thousands on a coat expecting to make major potentially ruinous alterations to it is another. Spend big on things that fit right from the start.
 

rui21

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Seconding @gimpwiz
For that price you could have a coat made for you.
Altering something thrifted or reasonable RTW is one thing, spending thousands on a coat expecting to make major potentially ruinous alterations to it is another. Spend big on things that fit right from the start.

I liked that the LP coat style was versatile, fabric was functional (storm system), and tailoring flattered my body shape. Would you say a custom made coat would be more worth it? I recently moved to New York so I’d be curious to find places that offer that here.
 

GaiusM

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I liked that the LP coat style was versatile, fabric was functional (storm system), and tailoring flattered my body shape. Would you say a custom made coat would be more worth it? I recently moved to New York so I’d be curious to find places that offer that here.
Worth entirely depends on you. Custom can go wrong. So can alterations and buying the wrong size.
I am saying if you really want this particular coat then buy it in your size. Might have to wait a year, sign up to some lists, contact LP. Unless you are swimming in cash to where $6300 is chump change and completely disposable I would not purchase it in the wrong size.
If you are dead set on this style and model wait/search for it. In the meantime I would shop around, look at and try on other models and coats. NY has plenty of options for tailoring, but I can't help you there.
 

gimpwiz

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I liked that the LP coat style was versatile, fabric was functional (storm system), and tailoring flattered my body shape. Would you say a custom made coat would be more worth it? I recently moved to New York so I’d be curious to find places that offer that here.

For $6300 you can have a bespoke coat made out of Loro Piana cashmere or any other cloth they sell. Not at any tailor, but I suspect at many of them you would even have cash left over. I think mine estimated $5k for an overcoat with LP heavyweight cashmere, which is a ruinously expensive fabric (versus, say, most of their suiting, like the super 150s Tasmanian book, which is expensive but a small fraction of the price.) If you want the "storm system" (which I think is just a coating on the fabric?) you can find alternative fabrics designed for overcoats with similar coatings, that isn't LP cashmere, and have a bespoke overcoat for far less.

But the thing is, "worth it" is very very subjective. When we're talking $6300 for an overcoat, we're far beyond standard value assessments. Spier & Mackay sells a polo coat for like $500 (not $5,000 but five hundred dollars.) That is a value proposition. Buying an overcoat on ebay for $50 to $200 is a value proposition. If your budget for this is $6300, your choices are _almost_ limitless and what you decide is worth it to you is really really up to you. If the LP overcoat speaks to you far more than any custom coat would (or, at least, you don't want to wait the time it takes to get one made, which may well mean you don't get to wear it this season), then accept no substitute, right? If you want to pick out precise details and precise style, then for $6300 my honest opinion is you're better off having one made. But, and I want to reiterate this, people do not buy mainline Loro Piana because of the value proposition, they buy it because they want it and have the money to spend on it and for no other reason. Is that you?

For me, my value proposition is about $180 split into two second-hand coats, one a black one in crombie wool, one a standard-shade-tan one in 100% cashmere, including tax and shipping. I think that's great value. Bought both off-season. Obviously I do not mean to compare that to a $6300 LP coat, but to put into contrast what I find "more worth it" versus what you might.
 

Rbpp

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I think the main reason not to buy it is that it doesn't look good, and for that price you should expect a coat that is functionnal, is your size and looks good.
 

comrade

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"functional" because it is a storm system?
You could buy three coats for $6300 at a place
like O'Connells which would work for every gradation
of winter weather and not look like that pathetic model
in the "Martingala"

 

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