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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

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Kahuna75

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Did you name these shoes? Very clever. Are these made to order? Were these available for purchase at one time? Very interesting. Look great. What are the specifications? S

LOL....one thing for sure is we are on opposite ends of shoes...I love the Rush St, hate the Gramercy(looks like brown blobs) and like the new webgems...

EDIT: I like the webgems a little less now as I realized they were AE made in DR
 
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OptoDoc

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I needed a pair of boot trees for my brown Fifth Street boots. So I made some. Here are the pictures.
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Now here is an example of unique ingenuity that is quite refreshing in this thread. Well done, good sir.
 
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tifosi

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Now here is an example of unique ingenuity that is quite refreshing in this thread. Well done, good sir.

How many PMs do you think the OP will get for custom, lasted shoe trees??? haha
 

tjyoung

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Quote:
The reason for the difference isn't quality driven, as Bespoken said. It's an aesthetic choice. The tighter heel makes for a dressier product. On 270 degree welted shoes, the heel zone of the sole is nailed on. After the the leather upper is lasted, a heel seat is nailed on, with the nails being driven up through the bottom and clinching into the leather insole. Lasts have a steel plate on the bottom, which causes the nails to bend and clinch the leather when they strike the plate. The sole is then nailed in the heel area in the same way, before the actual heel stack is nailed on. The nails are covered up with the leather cushioned sock liner that you see in other Goodyear-welted shoes. Contrary to popular belief, that sock liner's 1st intention isn't to pass on comfort to the wearer. It is to cover up the nails that are holding on the rear of the sole and heel. AE doesn't make their shoes this way, so those sock liners aren't "needed."

It is cheaper, easier, and more streamlined to manufacture 360 degree welts. That's the reason that AE sticks to that design. It isn't a cheaper shoe from a shoe quality standpoint. It's just different. 360 degree welts don't need shanks, and they don't need as many nails. As mentioned above, they also don't need sock-liners if the sole isn't nailed on at the heel. They also save a couple of steps in the manufacturing process, which eliminates the need for people to perform those steps. Those savings are passed on to the customer, and is one of the reasons AE is a more affordable shoe. Of course, that's at the expense of a more refined looking shoe on some models which may actually be more aesthetically pleasing with a 270 welt.

All companies that do Goodyear-welting (with the exception of AE) alternate between the two methods depending upon what is most appropriate for the style of shoe and its intended function and level of formality. Traditionally, country or casual styles may be 360, while dressier styles are 270. AE's company model just disregards these traditions in favor of streamlining their manufacturing.

When I first asked this question, I envisioned you replying to it. Thank you for this great info.
 

fiestaplatypus

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Got these beauties delivered yesterday. Can't wait to get them in the wild. I don't mind boots at work in a biz casual during the spring.

Chili Dalton's are 1sts as close outs and got a great deal.
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Love these boots. One of these days I will own a pair.
 
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FreedBird

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