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EZB

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Hmm trying to order the tinsel ave, but saying it is unable to complete? requires a call to a rep? @ae_ashley

EDIT: Nevermind..false alarm. I had too many shoelaces in the order--more than stock
 

NYCTechNerd

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I could be wrong, so guys please correct me on this if needed...the Neumok being imported (made in the DR I believe) is a relatively recent change. The newest batches of Neumoks although welted, have the XL sole cemented on. They are still recraftable, but if you look at the bottom of the sole, no stitching. Maybe production in the DR needed something more than boat shoes to keep them busy ( pure speculation on my part). ;)
Yes, the XL sole is "cemented" to a leather (or synthetic) midsole but the shoe is not actually "cemented construction" which is often used in lower quality cheap shoes. The midsole is the piece that is stitched to the welt which means this shoe is still a Goodyear welted shoe that can be recrafted.

I have been helping a cobbler update his website and have learned far too much about this stuff. As-in, this is what I wrote for him about different welt/construction types that he could put on his website for customers:

*****
The three main types of shoe construction, from least expensive and less durable to most expensive and more durable, are Cemented, Blake stitched, and Goodyear welted.

Goodyear welted shoe and boot construction uses a strip of leather known as a welt. It is first attached to the upper portion of a shoe and then used to attach the sole. This welt is what allows shoes and boots to be recrafted by cobblers who remove the worn-out sole and attach a new one to the existing welt. A leather welt usually only needs to be replaced if it is damaged or worn-out if the shoes soles have been replaced multiple times.

Blake stitched constructed shoes do not use a welt because the sole is stitched directly to the insole and the upper. When a welt is used on a Blake stitched shoe, it is usually for decoration. The advantage of using the Blake stitched construction is it can provide a lower profile and takes less time to break-in new shoes. The disadvantage is that they can only be resoled a few times because when a new sole is attached it puts more holes into the upper leather which will eventually wear out.

Cemented construction is when an adhesive is used to attach the sole to the shoe upper. It is often found in lower quality men’s shoes because they can be manufactured more quickly and cheaply. Most cemented shoes cannot be resoled so they must be thrown out when the sole wears out. An advantage is they are often the most comfortable type when new and do not need as much break-in time.
*****
 

Shoenut

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I could be wrong, so guys please correct me on this if needed...the Neumok being imported (made in the DR I believe) is a relatively recent change. The newest batches of Neumoks although welted, have the XL sole cemented on. They are still recraftable, but if you look at the bottom of the sole, no stitching. Maybe production in the DR needed something more than boat shoes to keep them busy ( pure speculation on my part). ;)
I think this has to do more with light weight squishy soles being the rage. Othello sole is also just cemented to a midsole. Shoes constructed with that sole used to be made in PW.
 

EZB

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Yes, the XL sole is "cemented" to a leather (or synthetic) midsole but the shoe is not actually "cemented construction" which is often used in lower quality cheap shoes. The midsole is the piece that is stitched to the welt which means this shoe is still a Goodyear welted shoe that can be recrafted.

I have been helping a cobbler update his website and have learned far too much about this stuff. As-in, this is what I wrote for him about different welt/construction types that he could put on his website for customers:

*****
The three main types of shoe construction, from least expensive and less durable to most expensive and more durable, are Cemented, Blake stitched, and Goodyear welted.

Goodyear welted shoe and boot construction uses a strip of leather known as a welt. It is first attached to the upper portion of a shoe and then used to attach the sole. This welt is what allows shoes and boots to be recrafted by cobblers who remove the worn-out sole and attach a new one to the existing welt. A leather welt usually only needs to be replaced if it is damaged or worn-out if the shoes soles have been replaced multiple times.

Blake stitched constructed shoes do not use a welt because the sole is stitched directly to the insole and the upper. When a welt is used on a Blake stitched shoe, it is usually for decoration. The advantage of using the Blake stitched construction is it can provide a lower profile and takes less time to break-in new shoes. The disadvantage is that they can only be resoled a few times because when a new sole is attached it puts more holes into the upper leather which will eventually wear out.

Cemented construction is when an adhesive is used to attach the sole to the shoe upper. It is often found in lower quality men’s shoes because they can be manufactured more quickly and cheaply. Most cemented shoes cannot be resoled so they must be thrown out when the sole wears out. An advantage is they are often the most comfortable type when new and do not need as much break-in time.
*****
Sort of. I think the welt on a black-stitched shoe. can be very much functional--especially as a resoled shoe.

A black-stitched shoe in its basic form has the outer stitches going into the shoe's uppers without a welt. However, if you instead stitch a welt to the uppers and the outsole to the welt, the stitches on the bottom of the shoe don't expose the innards to the elements. This form is called blake-rapid stitching.
 

madhat

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Sort of. I think the welt on a black-stitched shoe. can be very much functional--especially as a resoled shoe.

A black-stitched shoe in its basic form has the outer stitches going into the shoe's uppers without a welt. However, if you instead stitch a welt to the uppers and the outsole to the welt, the stitches on the bottom of the shoe don't expose the innards to the elements. This form is called blake-rapid stitching.
Oh, boy, here comes this argument again!
 

ProfilaBinding

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I think this has to do more with light weight squishy soles being the rage. Othello sole is also just cemented to a midsole. Shoes constructed with that sole used to be made in PW.
AE has been making DR shoes for a long time, including dress models. It does appear recently that they are moving more of their casual shoes to the DR production site. I'm not sure if it's because it's more convenient to have it done there, or if it's because they can be more profitable with the current trend of casual dress. They can keep the Voyager there forever for all I care.
 

NYCTechNerd

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Chili Boulevards on this cool day in nola!View attachment 1508950
How is the fit of this 65 lasted blucher (i.e. Boulevard) compared to a 65 lasted oxford (i.e. PA, 5A, Strand)?

Current or previous generation Alpinist? Have you seen some of the third party bracelets for it:
 
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EZB

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Nope, not today. No arguing it out for me :box:.

Didn't you read my earlier post in which I stated that I am sick and on cold medicine. As such, I forfeit this one.
Stay well!

How is the fit of this 65 lasted blucher (i.e. Boulevard) compared to a 65 lasted oxford (i.e. PA, 5A, Strand)?

Current or previous generation Alpinist? Hhave you seen some of the third party bracelets for it:
The fit is very similar, but much more flexible. My McGregors are about the best-fitting shoe I have. The 65-lasted bluchers can actually get tighter or looser than the Oxfords in both the top and bottom of the throat.
 

mreams99

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Since the topic of the Neumok coincided with Wingtip Wednesday, and a delivery from the FedEx truck....

5B77FE05-6478-4FED-80CB-3AFDED32F4E0.jpeg


I had been “considering” the idea of getting a suede Neumok for a while. I had narrowed it down to either the gray (loden?) or the camel/tan. I was leaning slightly towards the gray until I saw the sale that Nordstrom’s had a couple of days ago. I couldn’t pass these up.
 

ae_ashley

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I could be wrong, so guys please correct me on this if needed...the Neumok being imported (made in the DR I believe) is a relatively recent change. The newest batches of Neumoks although welted, have the XL sole cemented on. They are still recraftable, but if you look at the bottom of the sole, no stitching. Maybe production in the DR needed something more than boat shoes to keep them busy ( pure speculation on my part). ;)
Actually...I have some really great news.

Over the summer, we shifted ALL welted production back to Wisconsin. Previously we had moved some casual welts to the DR. We haven't changed the country of origin on the website because we obviously have some mixed inventory (DR and WI) in the distribution center. Really good news though, overall! 😍
 
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