Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2020 - News, Pictures, Clothing, Accessories, etc.

[Shoenut]

Tinsel.

I might have to get both because Tinsel sizing. The insole on the Woollymok makes a D width very good for me. Tinsel partial lining could throw me into a C width. But if I am lucky a B width. How often have I been thrown out of a shoe based on lack of widths!

 

[EZB]

One of the important aspects of GYW is the welt isn't just attached to the upper but is also simultaneously stitched to the ribbing on the bottom of the insole (if you think that's important for your cobbler's description).

I might have to get both because Tinsel sizing. The insole on the Woollymok makes a D width very good for me. Tinsel partial lining could throw me into a C width. But if I am lucky a B width. How often have I been thrown out of a shoe based on lack of widths!

Both is correct. I really miss shoes. I didn’t even shower today....

 

[Aenonymous]

Sort of. I think the welt on a black-stitched shoe. can be very much functional--especially as a resoled shoe.

A black-stitched shoe in its basic form has the outer stitches going into the shoe's uppers without a welt. However, if you instead stitch a welt to the uppers and the outsole to the welt, the stitches on the bottom of the shoe don't expose the innards to the elements. This form is called blake-rapid stitching.

Who/what brand would be an example of a blake shoe with a welt stitched to the upper first? You sure you've got that blake rapid explanation correct?

 

[EZB]

Who/what brand would be an example of a blake shoe with a welt stitched to the upper first? You sure you've got that blake rapid explanation correct?

Steve Doudaklian has done videos on it. He often converts Blake stitch to Blake rapid when he resoles them. They usually aren’t manufactured Blake rapid.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

One of the important aspects of GYW is the welt isn't just attached to the upper but is also simultaneously stitched to the ribbing on the bottom of the insole (if you think that's important for your cobbler's description).

It was written for regular customers and not overinformed shoe aficionados like us. This is a good way to write it: "Goodyear welted shoe and boot construction uses a strip of leather known as a welt. It is first attached to the upper portion of a shoe and then used to attach the sole." Getting into gemming/ribbing is beyond what a mere mortal will care about. We could clarify "simultaneously" but that is only at initial construction of the shoe and I am not sure if that detail matters to the average person who just wants to get their shoes repaired.

 

[bluejazzmonkey]

I might have to get both because Tinsel sizing. The insole on the Woollymok makes a D width very good for me. Tinsel partial lining could throw me into a C width. But if I am lucky a B width. How often have I been thrown out of a shoe based on lack of widths!

The Tinsel looks great. Is it Pigmented Leather, Corrected Leather, or Full Grain Leather?

 

[NYCTechNerd]

Sort of. I think the welt on a black-stitched shoe. can be very much functional--especially as a resoled shoe.

A black-stitched shoe in its basic form has the outer stitches going into the shoe's uppers without a welt. However, if you instead stitch a welt to the uppers and the outsole to the welt, the stitches on the bottom of the shoe don't expose the innards to the elements. This form is called blake-rapid stitching.

Who/what brand would be an example of a blake shoe with a welt stitched to the upper first? You sure you've got that blake rapid explanation correct?

Steve Doudaklian has done videos on it. He often converts Blake stitch to Blake rapid when he resoles them. They usually aren’t manufactured Blake rapid.

I'm with @Aenonymous on this one. While there is a difference between Blake and Blake Rapid, I am not sure you are accurately describing it. Do a search on my username and you will find a post from not that long ago with a detailed description of the differences.

And please post Steve's video(s). I have gone though almost all of them and do not remember that one. I have seen ones in which he converts a 270 degree GYW to a 360 GYW, cemented construction to Blake stitched, and cemented construction to stich-down but never Blake to Blake-Rapid. He may have, I am just saying I have not seen it and I think I have watched all his videos in the past year.

 

[EZB]

I'm with @Aenonymous on this one. While there is a difference between Blake and Blake Rapid, I am not sure you are accurately describing it. Do a search on my username and you will find a post from not that long ago with a detailed description of the differences.

And please post Steve's video(s). I have gone though almost all of them and do not remember that one. I have seen ones in which he converts a 270 degree GYW to a 360 GYW, cemented construction to Blake stitched, and cemented construction to stich-down but never Blake to Blake-Rapid. He may have, I am just saying I have not seen it and I think I have watched all his videos in the past year.

In the video, he even talked about how the show looks like a GYW afterwards.

 

[NYCTechNerd]

In the video, he even talked about how the show looks like a GYW afterwards.

So find it and post it. That is not a dare, it is actual interest.

 

[tcbinnc]

Happy Wingtip Wednesday!

No crazy laces or questionable lunch choices to share @AEfaninTampa, just chili shell MacNeils for wingtip Wednesday.

View attachment 1508898

Mmmmm. Chili. Very nice! Not shell, but spotted a calfskin Mac in chili available on the 'net. Very tempted.

 

[Vincent George]

So find it and post it. That is not a dare, it is actual interest.

This might not be the droid you're looking for, but it touches on some of the ideas...

 

[Aenonymous]

This might not be the droid you're looking for, but it touches on some of the ideas...

Good video of some fine work, but that's not an example of this particular discussion.

 

[Aenonymous]

In the video, he even talked about how the show looks like a GYW afterwards.

It's certainly possible to make a blake constructed shoe look like a GYW by utilizing both blake and rapid stitching, but the combo (I believe) is a bit different than what you've described and it utilizes a midsole. The midsole is blake stitched to the upper (technically it's stitched to the insole), so you'll still see that blake stitch on the inside of the shoe. Then a rapid stitch (plus some cement) is used to attach an outsole to the bottom of the midsole, while simultaneously stitching a decorative welt to the top side of the midsole. By all appearances it'll look like GYW and to your point you would have a protective layer (outsole) protecting the integrity of the hidden blake stitch. But the welt itself is not attached to the upper, only to the top of the midsole.

 

[Vincent George]

Good video of some fine work, but that's not an example of this particular discussion.

The point I was making was that Steve is disguising the blake by using a blind stitch.

It's certainly possible to make a blake constructed shoe look like a GYW by utilizing both blake and rapid stitching, but the combo (I believe) is a bit different than what you've described and it utilizes a midsole. The midsole is blake stitched to the upper (technically it's stitched to the insole), so you'll still see that blake stitch on the inside of the shoe. Then a rapid stitch (plus some cement) is used to attach an outsole to the bottom of the midsole, while simultaneously stitching a decorative welt to the top side of the midsole. By all appearances it'll look like GYW and to your point you would have a protective layer (outsole) protecting the integrity of the hidden blake stitch. But the welt itself is not attached to the upper, only to the top of the midsole.

He (re) glues a (fake) welt onto the uppers in this one, then blakes the shoe to a JR (but partial blind)

 

[pbrandes]

Yep, Schautal's are the way to go on a wingtip Wednesday. Love this shoe. Hint, hint, it would make a great webgem should those every come back.

View attachment 1508784

+ infinity.