ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SuitedDx, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. Northampton21

    Northampton21 Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Quite tempted with these at the moment too the AS Cambridge on the 87 last.
     


  2. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    Awesome boots. I have the black version (Fordham) and they are great.
     


  3. MacktasticGDogg

    MacktasticGDogg Senior member

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    Got my Radwells today. They are great as I expected. There had been a lot of good pictures of the Radwell posted lately, but I haven't seen pics of it on foot, so I'll contribute a couple of iphotos of the shoes "in action".

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  4. dddrees

    dddrees Senior member

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  5. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    Awesome!
     


  6. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    724 is a great boot last! My AFPoS x AS Millers look great because of the sharp lines. Wear in good health!
     


  7. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Can anyone comment on what is Pinner Suede?
     


  8. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman Senior member

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    It's dark brown suede. Looks almost black in shadow, but is clearly brown under light.

    I have the Ramsay in pinner suede. Sorry no pics.
     
    Last edited: Jun 7, 2013


  9. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Thanks, is it close to Expresso, mink, or polo?
     


  10. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman Senior member

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    Close to espresso; perhaps the same color just described differently. Pediwear calls the Herrick espresso suede not pinner suede. So does AS's facebook page. EG's mink suede is probably around the same, but I don't have any experience with that except web pictures. Polo suede is definitely redder and lighter.
     


  11. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman Senior member

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    I have the Charlton in pinner. Mixed up my models.
     


  12. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Thanks, I kopped them. :slayer:
     


  13. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman Senior member

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    Great price!
     


  14. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Hi guys, my first post here. I decided to make use of the Pediwear free shoe tree offer and their excellent service to order a few pairs of Alfred Sargents.

    I really like the shape of the shoes, especially with their slim waists that are usually available on top tier hand grade shoes. When I read from the shoe snob that Herring has released their own AS line, I bought a pair of Drake.

    While there are some negative comments on AS diverting their resources to deliver Herring’s line, I personally don’t see that is a bad financial decision for AS. I for one, wanted for a pair of capped toe oxfords, Pendle in AS Handgrade MTO line, however, I can’t justify the extra 250 pounds and weeks of waiting for a pair of shoes.

    So when I saw the Herring Drake in Oxblood, I bought it straight away, it’s just a Pendle in Herring 1966 last. AS isn’t the only company that does private lines, and may be for them, if they can out supply 2 or 3 pairs of RTW to each pair of MTO, it’s more profitable, and one would also think private lines’ demand be more stable and easy to manage and forecast.

    From my point of view, it’s been a great success for AS since they revamped their structure and moved up market where the real money can be made. Their Exclusive Line with bevelled waist and channelled sole is a grade above all benchgrade shoes from Church’s, Cheaney, Crockett and Jones, Trickers (those shoes around 300 pounds; similar to CJ handgrade (400 to 500 pounds), below the John Lobbs, Edward Greens, G & G.

    Reading from Uptowndandy’s blog, Chay Cooper said “AS Exclusive was launched after the Handgrade line with the remit to become the best ready to wear English made shoes whilst being more affordable than the Handgrade line”.

    From my limited research before making the purchase, CJ handgrade takes 6 to 8 weeks from ordering to delivering, (I am from Australia, so online is the only option), so it’s not really RTW, that leaves AS Exclusive as the only line that is bordering handgrade, or entry level handgrade (Justin The Shoe Snob wrote on his post on Herring 1966 collection “this brings us to their new venture into the world of handgrade shoes with their new collaboration with Alfred Sargent”) that is readily available in all sizes from various online stores, no email special orders, just order with click-click. So AS found itself an exclusive niche market that it should concentrate its resources on.

    Sunday Morning Shoe polish
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    My humble AS collection
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    From left to right: 109, 99, 1966, 724
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  15. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    I have 2 pairs of Allen Edmonds, I guess comparing to Alfred Sargent, their toes are more symmetrical and waist are wider, both represent the different design style of England and America shoes well.

    Armfield VS Park Avenue

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    Pimlico VS Kenilworth

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    Last edited: Jun 9, 2013


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