A comparison of bespoke jackets: Rubinacci, NSM, Manuel Martinez

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by coolpapa, Mar 1, 2011.

  1. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    I prefer NSM and MM in this case. All nice.

    I agree, the Rubi doesn't do it for me. MM is my favorite.
     


  2. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    coolpapaboze - Thanks so much for taking the time to make and share this comparison. This is exactly what we need from Style Forum members.

    A few quick thoughts:

    1) I have to give the nod to Rubinacci on this as it looks the most well balanced and comfortable.

    2) I like the Mina a lot, but I feel like it needs to be 1/2+ lower. There is that slight collar issue,but it may just need to be tugged.

    3) The MM is nice, but the lapels should be wider and the open quarters more elegant.

    Great stuff all around and wear them well!
     


  3. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    Some nice coats here. Out of curiosity, how many fittings did you receive for each?
     


  4. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I like the Rubi.'s fit best. NSM looks OK, and MM's front balance and quarters look weird, like that A&S long-front-balance to get open quarters thing.

    --Andre
     


  5. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    All are fantastic. The NSM is beautiful, and is my favorite. The lapels are killing. Next is the LH specimen, followed by MM.

    I will note that LH usually cuts a long-ish sleeve, whereas your sleeve length looks perfect. Did you specifically ask to go shorter than the recommended length?
     


  6. Metlin

    Metlin Senior member

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    Thank you for posting those pictures. Those are all great looking jackets.

    Personally, I like MM, followed by Rubinacci. To AY's point above, I think the MM looks like it has A&S influences, which I like. The structured, English tailoring makes it look quite nice! Unfortunately, I cannot say that I am a fan of the NSM.
     


  7. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Some nice coats here. Out of curiosity, how many fittings did you receive for each?

    I did two fittings for MM, and one for NSM. I only did one fitting for the Rubinacci in Naples in October, but this jacket is the third lot of garments made for me by LH.

    I will note that LH usually cuts a long-ish sleeve, whereas your sleeve length looks perfect. Did you specifically ask to go shorter than the recommended length?
    No, I didn't make a special request for shorter sleeves.
     


  8. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    I did two fittings for MM, and one for NSM. I only did one fitting for the Rubinacci in Naples in October, but this jacket is the third lot of garments made for me by LH.

    Hats-off for parallel-pathing multiple commissions. I'm sure most of us have considered this, but you are among the few to have done so. Should you decide to commission further work from either MM or NSM, it would be interesting to compare pics of their respective 3rd lots with those of your current Rubi - or alternatively, to post your first-gen Rubi so we can see how his work for you has evolved.

    Wear them in good health.
     


  9. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    And as an aside, a possible BR / NOLA meetup? Post Mardi Gras, of course...
     


  10. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice, coolpapa. Must be fun to try so many tailors. And have a good one in your backyard. Love the Rubinacci. Nice and conservative cloth and it fits you very well. As others have said, I wish the NsM were a tiny bit longer and the collar a little closer. Mina makes a very distinctive shoulder which I like very much. Also, as far as I know everything she does is unlined. Makes for a really comfortable jacket, even if it can sometimes look a little disheveled.

    Thanks for taking the time to post. Very helpful for those interested in this stuff. Did you see Mina in Naples or the US?
     


  11. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Did you see Mina in Naples or the US?

    Both. Met her originally in Naples in October, picked a fabric, had her take measurements, then met her again for a fitting in December in NY, then picked up the jacket last week.
     


  12. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Both. Met her originally in Naples in October, picked a fabric, had her take measurements, then met her again for a fitting in December in NY, then picked up the jacket last week.

    Is the fabric Loro Piana?
     


  13. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    Thanks for posting the pics! I think I would rank them Rub, MM and NSM. Your shoulders seem to have a very interesting shape in the Rub and NSM. I think the MM really makes your frame look more symmetrical. The NSM seems to be fighting your body a little bit more than the Rub, although I love the lapels and the sleeves appear to be hung beautifully. Good stuff all around! Enjoy the jackets and thanks again for posting pics.
     


  14. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Is the fabric Loro Piana?

    Dormeuil.
     


  15. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Many thanks for posting! As said before, hard to comment specifics on the basis of three pics, but I like them all - wear in good health.
     


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