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A comparison of bespoke jackets: Rubinacci, NSM, Manuel Martinez

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by coolpapa, Mar 1, 2011.

  1. Metlin

    Metlin Senior member

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    Thank you for posting those pictures. Those are all great looking jackets.

    Personally, I like MM, followed by Rubinacci. To AY's point above, I think the MM looks like it has A&S influences, which I like. The structured, English tailoring makes it look quite nice! Unfortunately, I cannot say that I am a fan of the NSM.
     
  2. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Some nice coats here. Out of curiosity, how many fittings did you receive for each?

    I did two fittings for MM, and one for NSM. I only did one fitting for the Rubinacci in Naples in October, but this jacket is the third lot of garments made for me by LH.

    I will note that LH usually cuts a long-ish sleeve, whereas your sleeve length looks perfect. Did you specifically ask to go shorter than the recommended length?
    No, I didn't make a special request for shorter sleeves.
     
  3. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    I did two fittings for MM, and one for NSM. I only did one fitting for the Rubinacci in Naples in October, but this jacket is the third lot of garments made for me by LH.

    Hats-off for parallel-pathing multiple commissions. I'm sure most of us have considered this, but you are among the few to have done so. Should you decide to commission further work from either MM or NSM, it would be interesting to compare pics of their respective 3rd lots with those of your current Rubi - or alternatively, to post your first-gen Rubi so we can see how his work for you has evolved.

    Wear them in good health.
     
  4. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    And as an aside, a possible BR / NOLA meetup? Post Mardi Gras, of course...
     
  5. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice, coolpapa. Must be fun to try so many tailors. And have a good one in your backyard. Love the Rubinacci. Nice and conservative cloth and it fits you very well. As others have said, I wish the NsM were a tiny bit longer and the collar a little closer. Mina makes a very distinctive shoulder which I like very much. Also, as far as I know everything she does is unlined. Makes for a really comfortable jacket, even if it can sometimes look a little disheveled.

    Thanks for taking the time to post. Very helpful for those interested in this stuff. Did you see Mina in Naples or the US?
     
  6. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Did you see Mina in Naples or the US?

    Both. Met her originally in Naples in October, picked a fabric, had her take measurements, then met her again for a fitting in December in NY, then picked up the jacket last week.
     
  7. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Both. Met her originally in Naples in October, picked a fabric, had her take measurements, then met her again for a fitting in December in NY, then picked up the jacket last week.

    Is the fabric Loro Piana?
     
  8. S. Able

    S. Able Senior member

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    Thanks for posting the pics! I think I would rank them Rub, MM and NSM. Your shoulders seem to have a very interesting shape in the Rub and NSM. I think the MM really makes your frame look more symmetrical. The NSM seems to be fighting your body a little bit more than the Rub, although I love the lapels and the sleeves appear to be hung beautifully. Good stuff all around! Enjoy the jackets and thanks again for posting pics.
     
  9. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Is the fabric Loro Piana?

    Dormeuil.
     
  10. TheTukker

    TheTukker Senior member

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    Many thanks for posting! As said before, hard to comment specifics on the basis of three pics, but I like them all - wear in good health.
     
  11. calisanfran

    calisanfran Senior member

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    Rubi looks best to my eyes.
     
  12. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Rubinacci by far. NSM doesn't seem to work as well for your body type.
    MM looks squarish and the fabric turns me off.
     
  13. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    I like the Rubi.'s fit best. NSM looks OK, and MM's front balance and quarters look weird, like that A&S long-front-balance to get open quarters thing.

    --Andre


    The MM looks odd, much like Manton's A&S.
     
  14. courty

    courty Senior member

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    The MM seems to swing out a bit. Rubinacci looks the most harmonious to my eye.
     
  15. chefjeff01

    chefjeff01 New Member

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    I know this is speaking about jackets, but someone in BR, La., my hometown, posted and this is for that person.
    I just left Manuel Martinez Custom Clothier yesterday after picking up some custom dress shirts. I can tell you that the service is professional, friendly, and worth the extra cost. I had 2 consultations with Manuel. The first consultation is about getting to know who you are, personal style, the occasion for the outfit, etc. Manuel's beautiful secretary sat me in a room with mirrors everywhere and offered me a multitude of liquids to satisfy my thirst in the horrible heat/humidity that we have here in BR, Louisiana. Moments later, in walked the ultra dapper, Mr. Martinez. We shook hands and he started off with the basic question for a new client, " what brings you in today?" After another 10-15 min. talking together, we moved on to the measurements and then the most difficult part, choosing the fabrics/patterns. Manuel gives style points and tips on why you should or should not wear specific colors or patterns, especially if it is for a specific occasion such as a funeral, wedding, or an interview.
    Manuel guides you through the process and makes you feel very comfortable with his expertise and knowledge. He gave me information that I had never heard before in all of the men's magazines/ blogs that I read.
    The second consultation was supposed to be the first fitting. While Manuel told me that an alteration or 2 may be needed after the first visit for my dress shirts, they hit the nail on the head the first time. I went in yesterday and tried the shirts on for proper fitting. BOOM!!! Nothing needed to be altered. Seriously, the shirts were just incredible and fit like a glove. I left feeling and looking like $1 million dollars. From the day he started on the shirts to last fitting was approx. 5-6 wks.
    While I am no CEO nor a "top dog" of industry, Manuel helped me choose great fabrics/patterns for my lifestyle, career, and body type. After leaving the shop, all I could think about were the next fabrics/patterns that I would like to have in my closet.
    He is a soft spoken man, but do not let this fool you, as he is very much on top of his game and I can not wait to return for more of Manuel's work.
    The BEST part to me, was that Manuel did not make me feel like I was an outsider.
    I have been to other tailors and just walking through the door heads would start to turn and eyes would start to wonder, giving you the feeling like you did not belong. The idea that "this is a dapper men's club and you do not belong b/c you are wearing rubber soled shoes(casual) or because you are not the CEO of a company, did NOT come with my experience at Manuel Martinez Custom Clothier.
    He made me feel quite comfortable just being myself & I did not have to put on a facade to do business with him.
    So if you want great service, great choices, and incredible craftsmanship, Manuel Martinez Custom Clothier is for you. All bespoke, no made to measure or off the rack.
    I will be doing business again with him.
     

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