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A comparison of bespoke jackets: Rubinacci, NSM, Manuel Martinez

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by coolpapa, Mar 1, 2011.

  1. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    I thought it might be useful/interesting to see a side by side comparison of three jackets I've had made in the last six months from three different makers. The Rubinacci is the lightest of the three, followed by the NSM, and finally the Manuel Martinez, which is a Minnis Lambswool. Most here are familiar with Rubinacci and Mina Adamo of NSM, probably fewer know Manuel Martinez. Manuel is based in Baton Rouge but travels frequently to New York to meet with clients. He is similar to Mina in that he is trained as a tailor, but most of the sewing is done offsite, in his case, in New York. He does the fittings and cuts the patterns himself. His house style leans toward more structured English, but he made my jacket shorter and softer per my request. I'm pleased with the work of all three though they each provide different experiences at different price points. They are, from most expensive to least: Rubinacci, MM, NSM. Sorry about the last color combination, but I didn't feel like changing my pants. [​IMG]

    Rubinacci
    [​IMG]

    Napoli Su Misura
    [​IMG]

    Manuel Martinez
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Senior member

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    I prefer NSM and MM in this case. All nice.
     
  3. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    I like the MM. Living in Baton Rouge, I have been thinking about using him. What do you know about his production? I have heard rumours about his business model, but would rather hear it from someone who experienced his work first hand.
     
  4. Redwoood

    Redwoood Senior member

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    I'm not a fan of the overall silhouette (though it seems even Mina does some drape from time to time), but the Rubi is the best executed to my eyes. The collar sits tight, the quarters aren't splaying open. The pattern falls straight.
     
  5. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    I like the MM. Living in Baton Rouge, I have been thinking about using him. What do you know about his production? I have heard rumours about his business model, but would rather hear it from someone who experienced his work first hand.

    I'm not sure what you mean about his business model. I like him a lot, he's been really easy to work with, and fits my ideal anyway of what a tailor should be. He has great taste, tries to give you what you want while guiding you and helping to avoid mistakes. He turns things around quickly, or at least reliably, and he's very responsive. I'm no expert on sewing, but the sewing seems to be very good, with all the details you'd expect executed at a very high level. He has now made shirts, pants, and a jacket for me and I have been pleased with everything. As I mentioned, he takes the measurements, cuts the pattern and sews the basted garment, then has it finished in New York. I don't know the details of the outfit he uses to finish the garments as I didn't ask. I know a lot of people here obsess about that stuff, but as long as the quality of the garment is high, I don't care. His setup seems very similar to Mina's in terms of the division of labor and what he's bringing to the table.

    As much as I've enjoyed working with Rubinacci and Mina, and will continue to do so, I can't overstate the advantage to being local for someone like me and for you. It's far easier to make adjustments and make changes, even if the final sewing is done elsewhere, when you're dealing with someone local.
     
  6. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    I'm not a fan of the overall silhouette (though it seems even Mina does some drape from time to time), but the Rubi is the best executed to my eyes. The collar sits tight, the quarters aren't splaying open. The pattern falls straight.

    I wonder if that could've been fixed for the other two simply by tugging the jacket.
     
  7. MBreinin

    MBreinin Senior member

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    Hmmmm....a good Bespoke tailor in Baton Rouge.

    I have been thinking, and there is one thing I really want that I might have to go bespoke to order. I just did not want to travel, but I will drive an hour.

    Mike
     
  8. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Nice coats all. The collar needs to be fixed on the NSM, but perhaps it simply needs a tug.

    While all three are very good, I would rank them as follows on the basis of the photos shown: NSM, MM, Rubi.

    Btw, is the MM fabric made from Minnis Lamswool? Great fabric.
     
  9. forex

    forex Senior member

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    Rubinacci jacket is my favorite followed by MM. NSM is too short and collar doesn't fit well. I would just stick with MM for future garments given that it is local and very convenient.
     
  10. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Btw, is the MM fabric made from Minnis Lamswool? Great fabric.

    Yes. I really like it but to be honest I have no idea what to wear with it. [​IMG]
     
  11. Newcomer

    Newcomer Senior member

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    Hmmmm....a good Bespoke tailor in Baton Rouge.

    I have been thinking, and there is one thing I really want that I might have to go bespoke to order. I just did not want to travel, but I will drive an hour.

    Mike


    I could not agree more. Living about 5 minutes away from one's tailor would be incredibly convenient (well, that is dependent on the damn Baton Rouge traffic).

    I'm not sure what you mean about his business model. I like him a lot, he's been really easy to work with, and fits my ideal anyway of what a tailor should be. He has great taste, tries to give you what you want while guiding you and helping to avoid mistakes. He turns things around quickly, or at least reliably, and he's very responsive. I'm no expert on sewing, but the sewing seems to be very good, with all the details you'd expect executed at a very high level. He has now made shirts, pants, and a jacket for me and I have been pleased with everything. As I mentioned, he takes the measurements, cuts the pattern and sews the basted garment, then has it finished in New York. I don't know the details of the outfit he uses to finish the garments as I didn't ask. I know a lot of people here obsess about that stuff, but as long as the quality of the garment is high, I don't care. His setup seems very similar to Mina's in terms of the division of labor and what he's bringing to the table.

    As much as I've enjoyed working with Rubinacci and Mina, and will continue to do so, I can't overstate the advantage to being local for someone like me and for you. It's far easier to make adjustments and make changes, even if the final sewing is done elsewhere, when you're dealing with someone local.


    I guess what I meant is the % of the business that is done by him, and the % that is outsourced. Another men's store in town (I will not name names, but I will just say they are nearby...) said something about his garments being made in Canada, and him running more of a MTM business than a true bespoke. This I guess is one of the only reasons I have been hesitant to try him out. It is never good when you do not exactly know what is going on. He did seem to know his stuff though, and he was very helpful when I met with him. I have been debating between either him or Chan, but I may just give Manuel a shot after seeing this garment. I am thoroughly impressed.
     
  12. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    All look pretty damn good. I like the cloth of the third and the fit of the first best - although one photo makes it hard to tell one way or another.
     
  13. academe

    academe Senior member

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    Nice stuff...Balance and proportions look pretty spot-on for all 3.

    For some reason I especially like the way the sleeves of the NSM have been set slightly more than the others...Did you request a "hard" 3-roll-2 for the NSM and MM coats? One of my tailors executes a 3-roll-2 in this way, but I tend to prefer the gentler roll of the Rubinacci...
     
  14. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    From my conversations with him, it seems like he's doing the most important parts: the consultation, measurements, cutting the pattern, and doing the basted fitting. I asked him if he cut the pattern and he said he did. I can only take him at his word that he is actually doing that. I thought he told me the last time I met with him that the sewing was done in NY, but I could be mistaken. I would guess that running a full on bespoke shop, with on site sewing of everything, would not be economically feasible in this country, or at least not in Baton Rouge. I don't have a lot of experience with tailors, but I would assume his model is pretty common in the US. I'd also say the difference between him and most MTM type set ups is that he is an actual tailor, so while he may not make as much on site himself, he knows cutting and sewing, and I think that experience alone would set him apart. I can see how some might be bothered by where the sewing is done, but as long as the fit and quality are consistent with his prices, it's not going to keep me up at night.
     
  15. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Nice stuff...Balance and proportions look pretty spot-on for all 3.

    For some reason I especially like the way the sleeves of the NSM have been set slightly more than the others...Did you request a "hard" 3-roll-2 for the NSM and MM coats? One of my tailors executes a 3-roll-2 in this way, but I tend to prefer the gentler roll of the Rubinacci...


    I actually didn't request that, and I have the same preference as you. I knew there was something about the MM that was off to my eye, and it wasn't until I took these pictures this morning that I realized it was the hard roll that I didn't like. I've actually emailed Manuel about it to see if it can be adjusted.
     
  16. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    I prefer NSM and MM in this case. All nice.

    I agree, the Rubi doesn't do it for me. MM is my favorite.
     
  17. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    coolpapaboze - Thanks so much for taking the time to make and share this comparison. This is exactly what we need from Style Forum members.

    A few quick thoughts:

    1) I have to give the nod to Rubinacci on this as it looks the most well balanced and comfortable.

    2) I like the Mina a lot, but I feel like it needs to be 1/2+ lower. There is that slight collar issue,but it may just need to be tugged.

    3) The MM is nice, but the lapels should be wider and the open quarters more elegant.

    Great stuff all around and wear them well!
     
  18. medtech_expat

    medtech_expat Senior member

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    Some nice coats here. Out of curiosity, how many fittings did you receive for each?
     
  19. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I like the Rubi.'s fit best. NSM looks OK, and MM's front balance and quarters look weird, like that A&S long-front-balance to get open quarters thing.

    --Andre
     
  20. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    All are fantastic. The NSM is beautiful, and is my favorite. The lapels are killing. Next is the LH specimen, followed by MM.

    I will note that LH usually cuts a long-ish sleeve, whereas your sleeve length looks perfect. Did you specifically ask to go shorter than the recommended length?
     

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