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٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ (a.k.a. I shouldn't have slept on it)

hpreston

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As we’re getting ready to enter FW24 buying season, I wanted to ask for feedback on the assortment we brought in the fall season, what you guys loved and didn’t, what you feel we should focus on more, etc…

The feedback is always useful, especially when some consensus topics emerge
Obviously everyone is in a different place in wardrobe building and maintenance, and has different taste.

For me, I finally copped a winter weight KS Traveler (this season’s Navy) and love it. Trying to fill out some business casual pieces, I liked Doppiaa and GRP wool polos. William Lockie as S&C replacement is 🔥🔥, I was able to snag a couple cashmere beanies, but missed out on the cardigan in size/color I wanted, but next season…. I am also all in on Carrara tailoring.

While I might not have purchased this season, several makers continue to be interesting, Wythe, Valstar, Rota, Jamisons, Inglese.

I too would like to see the rerun of Norwegian Rain.
 

jaaz16

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I'll try to organize some scattered thoughts:

The good:

1. Knits are always a highlight; your picks, and the mix of colors and yarns you pick up, is always great. Brand-wise I'm not as interested in Inis Meain as other makers, though I do have half a dozen IM beanies I rotate daily in the winter. GRP, Doppiaa, Jamieson's, Chamula and 3sixteen are always good here. Would like to see continued knits from Document too. Keep the sweaters coming!
2. Rota Manhattans. I don't have any yet but am very interested for next fall.
3. Earth/studies is on my radar in a major way. Love the pants I got. Of the newer additions to the shop, I'm watching them the most.
4. I like both Portuguese Flannel shackets I have! Good value IMO.
5. Love Paraboot but the only issue per se is that once I have a pair, I'm not really itching to buy more in different colors.

The "meh" (for me!):

1. Tailoring. I would never suggest you guys drop it because a lot of guys love it! Just saying I have little interest personally.
2. PF shirts. I like the camp collars for the summer and I suspect it's smart to have entry-level pieces but their F/W rarely does it for me.
3. For new brands, Paratodo and Yarmouth Oilskins didn't speak to me as much.
4. Beams+. Real hit or miss for me. As already stated, they're sold everywhere now and have tons of SKUs. I like to see your selections because you guys have good taste, but I'm not as excited about them. I find myself putting them on my wishlist but not moving to cart.

I agree with others that lighter coat and jacket options would be good. Something like the weight of a trench, or the Document CPO.
 

mina262

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My unfiltered thoughts:
- I probably spent less this FW than other seasons, mainly due to buying the key staples last few seasons (Traveller, Clint, Moscow, IM knits, etc.).
- I found the 10th anniversary pieces really interesting, but I felt that the color palette was a bit too ‘earthy’ (I tend to prefer ‘colder’ colors).
- GRP is great value, and I have upgraded most of my day-to-day knits to them.
- Valstar in general, and pre-orders particularly, are exciting. Please keep them!
- Agree with the earlier comment around some of the new makers were a bit less interesting for me (but I also didn’t have the time to research).
- I am going to need some tailoring again (at least jackets) for in person office, but definitely on the more casual side of it. The current selection is spot on, although I am yet to order.
- Stoffa capsule pieces were amazing in person, and I think your collaboration with them was really interesting. Quite pricey so can really only do 1-2 pieces per season.
- More gifts, especially for the other half (blankets, etc).

As an aside, I found that I am less engaged with the new IG videos. Probably because I know I can come back to them more readily? Dunno. I always used to try to make the livestream or at least watch the whole thing back.
 

45bur

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My unfiltered thoughts:
- I probably spent less this FW than other seasons, mainly due to buying the key staples last few seasons (Traveller, Clint, Moscow, IM knits, etc.).
- I found the 10th anniversary pieces really interesting, but I felt that the color palette was a bit too ‘earthy’ (I tend to prefer ‘colder’ colors).
- GRP is great value, and I have upgraded most of my day-to-day knits to them.
- Valstar in general, and pre-orders particularly, are exciting. Please keep them!
- Agree with the earlier comment around some of the new makers were a bit less interesting for me (but I also didn’t have the time to research).
- I am going to need some tailoring again (at least jackets) for in person office, but definitely on the more casual side of it. The current selection is spot on, although I am yet to order.
- Stoffa capsule pieces were amazing in person, and I think your collaboration with them was really interesting. Quite pricey so can really only do 1-2 pieces per season.
- More gifts, especially for the other half (blankets, etc).

As an aside, I found that I am less engaged with the new IG videos. Probably because I know I can come back to them more readily? Dunno. I always used to try to make the livestream or at least watch the whole thing back.
Good point re: the insta vids - I much prefer the old format. New format seems rushed and doesn't spend enough time with the products. I also miss the mannequin tour at the end of the vids - so much great inspo there.
 

Handcuffed

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if i'm a 12.5us tts (13 nike running shoes, 12 alden barrie last), could i make a 46 in la botte gardiane work?
 

jeremygo

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My sport coat from NMWA x Sartoria Carrara (went for the grey herringbone flannel) came this weekend and it’s GORGEOUS. So excited to get it tailored and add it into the rotation. Can’t wait to see what tailoring options Greg and co are offering for SS.
 

wdahab

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As we’re getting ready to enter FW24 buying season, I wanted to ask for feedback on the assortment we brought in the fall season, what you guys loved and didn’t, what you feel we should focus on more, etc…

The feedback is always useful, especially when some consensus topics emerge
I’ve mentioned this a couple times, but on the Rotas brooklyn and manhattan fits, a longer inseam or significantly longer allowance. Not enough with the usual length + allowance for an average guy to cuff, and my tailor had difficulty even getting a plain 30.5” inseam on one of the pairs.
 

Friend

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FW23 makers I really liked:
  • 3sixteen
  • Document
  • Fujito
  • GRP
  • Ikiji
  • Sage de Cret
  • Valstar
FW23 makers I did not care for as much:
  • An Irrational Element: On paper this seems like a great brand for me, but I haven't gotten along with the fits of several pieces I've tried, particularly the popovers.
  • Doppiaa: Potentially hot take #1, the suiting is the only thing that's caught my eye from them in a little while (and you have carried some niiiice suits from them). The rest either has not looked like it would fill a niche or would fit well into my wardrobe (in contrast, I've been coming around more to CAMO as ticking these boxes in a somewhat similar but more successful way).
Special mentions:
  • Earth/Studies (+): I haven't bought anything from them yet, but I really like the looks of what you've carried, in particular the pants. Will likely remedy that soon and give them a go.
  • Kardo (~): I feel like they are getting close to putting together something exciting, but they haven't quite clicked for me yet. I might just need to see more of their pieces in a fit to understand the silhouettes better, because the fabrics tend to be interesting and the price points are generally pretty accessible.
  • Inis Meain (-): Potentially hot take #2, but I'm personally feeling kind of lukewarm about them these days. Nothing wrong with the knits themselves, but I feel like my heirloom staple knits are better covered by GRP at more affordable prices, and at the IM price points I'm more interested in knits that are a bit more adventurous/directionally Japanese (Yashiki, for example). They also have gotten more NA stockists in recent years, though your buy is almost always superior. I also fully acknowledge this might be an area where I diverge a bit from the NMWA customer archetype, though.
  • ts(s) (-): I really like what they do! But this season just felt pretty flat to me - the concepts and colors did not spark my imagination. Aside from the navy ripple cord shirt, which was excellent.
Overall, I think things are moving in the right direction, although my seasonal spend was definitely down (which I attribute mostly to hitting NYC apartment closet capacity). I really value the curatorial eye you all bring with your buys, and there have often been examples of styles I was lukewarm on initially that I got majorly into months or a year+ later. As a small-ish boi, I would always be down to see more from Asian makers, particularly Ikiji and Document from the current roster (also more blurhms silk-blend tanks for the summer pls).
 

Themistocles

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I’ve mentioned this a couple times, but on the Rotas brooklyn and manhattan fits, a longer inseam or significantly longer allowance. Not enough with the usual length + allowance for an average guy to cuff, and my tailor had difficulty even getting a plain 30.5” inseam on one of the pairs.
Second this on the inseam length for Rota. Had to really size up to get even close to the necessary inseam and tailor needed to add extra fabric to finish the pants (no cuffs, just straight hem). For reference, I’m 6 foot.
 

LiquidSwords

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Apr 22, 2017
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My bottom line is that I’m extremely content with this season’s selection, and all the makers you carry. I don't think there's anything I'd like to see *less* of btw.

Here’s what I loved most:

In terms of makers, DBF, PF, Valstar, Doppiaa, Camo were consistently dropping highly desirable things all season. Honorable mention to Wythe, Ikiji, GRP, Jamieson’s, and Kaptain Sunshine.

More specific:
  • Wythe & Valstar Casentinos were stunners. KS’s orange Walker is already legendary. More three-season heavy-raincoat-like coats like that?
  • Valstar’s cord shirt jacket & Doppiaa’s padded westerns were unbelievable. DBF’s plumb check, PF’s gunchecks were also excellent.
  • Camo’s Tisserands & PF’s Laburas. Personally, I feel like there’s a lot of room left in this post-sport-coat style, at least in my wardrobe.
  • I love Camo’s long-sleeve Ts and their wool version this season was beautiful. The Ikiji wool Ts are wonderful, as are the Ikiji & ts(s) turts. Not sexy but I’ll buy more.
  • In general, I love the Italian makers leaning into westernwear & would like to see more of what Doppiaa & Valstar & Inglese imagine in this vein. Your G Inglese colabs are batting 1,000, btw.
What to do more of?
  • Is there a collaboration you might do with Inis Meain on an intermediate winter coat/jacket?
  • Perhaps a few more heavier wool trousers next season? You offered some Leder wool drawstrings, but I think I found myself less tempted by the trouser collection this season than I was by the earlier spring trouser offerings.
The Kardo Alok shirt was somewhat rare for being a vibrant *winter* shirt. I think this is much more of a menswear in general/seasonal thing, but I'd like to see more colorful winter button-ups similar to the Kardo shirts.

I think a lot of people slept on the Earth/Studies fleece pants but I would be happy to see more of that sort of winter stuff.

There’s also things like the X of Pentacles scarves and Merola gloves that I would love to see again next year, but imagine that they don’t sell well, for reasons, and I would not be surprised, but sad, not to see.
I really wish I hadn’t missed the X of Pentacles scarves
 

LiquidSwords

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Apr 22, 2017
Messages
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I'll try to organize some scattered thoughts:

The good:

1. Knits are always a highlight; your picks, and the mix of colors and yarns you pick up, is always great. Brand-wise I'm not as interested in Inis Meain as other makers, though I do have half a dozen IM beanies I rotate daily in the winter. GRP, Doppiaa, Jamieson's, Chamula and 3sixteen are always good here. Would like to see continued knits from Document too. Keep the sweaters coming!
2. Rota Manhattans. I don't have any yet but am very interested for next fall.
3. Earth/studies is on my radar in a major way. Love the pants I got. Of the newer additions to the shop, I'm watching them the most.
4. I like both Portuguese Flannel shackets I have! Good value IMO.
5. Love Paraboot but the only issue per se is that once I have a pair, I'm not really itching to buy more in different colors.

The "meh" (for me!):

1. Tailoring. I would never suggest you guys drop it because a lot of guys love it! Just saying I have little interest personally.
2. PF shirts. I like the camp collars for the summer and I suspect it's smart to have entry-level pieces but their F/W rarely does it for me.
3. For new brands, Paratodo and Yarmouth Oilskins didn't speak to me as much.
4. Beams+. Real hit or miss for me. As already stated, they're sold everywhere now and have tons of SKUs. I like to see your selections because you guys have good taste, but I'm not as excited about them. I find myself putting them on my wishlist but not moving to cart.

I agree with others that lighter coat and jacket options would be good. Something like the weight of a trench, or the Document CPO.
Jesus Christ, do I hate the term “entry level” in respect to **** we are ultimately just buying.
 

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